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Sunset view from Big Buddha, Koh Samui.

Sunset view from Big Buddha, Koh Samui.

Eight Things I Loved About Thailand (and three things I didn't)

March 11, 2017

Thailand has long been a top travel destination.  From beach lovers to backpackers to digital nomads, I used to wonder how a place with a reputation for heat and sleaze could be so popular with seemingly everyone?

Now, I understand.  Consider me convinced.

I was, at best, neutral and even slightly skeptical about Thailand before we arrived, so what exactly did this wary traveler encounter that changed her opinion?  

Here are eight reasons.

Number One:  The Food

I've always enjoyed Thai cuisine in the US, so I didn't think I would have any problems, but little did I know just how much I would love it.  Delicious, healthy AND cheap, it's my version of the holy grail.

That first encounter was not love at first sight, however.  The bowl of Tom Yum Goong soup looked and smelled delicious... until I took my first bite.  Immediately, my tongue exploded into flames and my throat felt like it had just received a karate chop.  I tried to bite down only to discover I had a mouthful of woody pulp.  I very inelegantly opened my mouth and let the entire lot fall unceremoniously back into the bowl.  

Fiery Thai specialty:  Tom Yum Goong.

Fiery Thai specialty:  Tom Yum Goong.

When I took a cooking class later in the week, we visited the fresh vegetable market.  The chef showed us the strange-looking ingredients for Tom Yum Goong and advised that they aren't meant to be eaten, but are strictly for flavor.  You eat the shrimp and broth, but the kaffir lime leaves, galangal (Thai ginger), bird's eye chillies, finger root and lemongrass are all meant to stay in the bowl.  Turns out, it was a super spicy bird's eye chili and a bunch of woody lemongrass that I ended up spitting out.

Learning what not to eat in Tom Yum Goong.

Learning what not to eat in Tom Yum Goong.

Once I knew how (and what) to eat, however, I couldn't stop.  I started the day with Khao Tom for breakfast (rice soup with ground pork) and a couple hours later, moved on to coconut chicken soup, green Thai curry or pad Thai. But the one dish I couldn't get enough of was Khao Soi, a northern Thai curry noodle soup that is served with either chicken or pork and topped with crunchy noodles.  It's killing me that I can't go out and get a bowl right now.

O Khao Soi, where art thou?

O Khao Soi, where art thou?

Then, there was the fresh fruit.  I definitely tried some new exotic varieties- dragonfruit, jackfruit, rose apples and durian to name a few, but I probably ate my weight in fresh pineapple, pomelo and... mango.  The mango of Thailand is the food I will miss the most, and the mango-containing dessert of my dreams: mango sticky rice.  I can't explain it, but the combination of the coconut-y sticky rice with the tart sweetness of mango is sheer perfection.  

Incomparably delicious: mango sticky rice.

Incomparably delicious: mango sticky rice.

Besides the tastiness of the food, it is EVERYWHERE.  I mean, you can't walk two feet without bumping into a restaurant, street cart or fresh fruit peddler.  I've heard Thais have four meals per day so I guess that explains why it appears 50% of the population is engaged in some sort of foodservice operation.

And just when I thought I was safe from becoming completely unhinged by my obsession when leaving the country, this stared me down in the Bangkok airport.  

I tried one and now I'm hooked.  Damn you to hell, DQ. 

Number Two: The Night

Why are we so happy?  The sun is setting in Chiang Mai.

Why are we so happy?  The sun is setting in Chiang Mai.

Nights in Thailand help me forgive the transgressions of day.  

It's as though every annoying thing magically transforms into something romantic.  The oppressive heat becomes a warm and energizing hug.  The street grime and tired buildings become a clean and glittering skyline.  The loud chaos of people, tuk tuks and motorbikes becomes a pleasant soundtrack to your evening's activities. 

Ferry on the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok.

Ferry on the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok.

Average blog writers metamorphose into wannabe poets.

Beyond literary inspiration, night is truly the best time to be in Thailand.  Specifically, the entertainment extravaganza that are street markets brings everyone- tourist and local alike- together for people watching, gossip, shopping and eating.  In the soft light and even softer heat, everyone is looking and feeling good and the buzzy vibes and smiles are contagious.  

Night food market on Suthep Road, Chiang Mai.

Night food market on Suthep Road, Chiang Mai.

Number Three: The People

Chef Jay, the friendliest guy in Bangkok.

Chef Jay, the friendliest guy in Bangkok.

Despite the tropical heat and spicy food, Thais have to be some of the chillest peeps on the planet.  There is definitely a laid back 'live and let live' attitude which explains why even in conservative Asia, Thailand is accepting of the LGBT community, including the famous 'ladyboys'.   In addition to their tolerance, I discovered they are also super friendly, considerate and respectful. 

From the approachable staff at restaurants and train stations to queueing at the light rail stations to bowing when thanking you, Thai people have a civilized society that puts 'Minnesota Nice' to shame.  Respect is contagious and even foreigners can't help but adopt these virtues- we didn't encounter a single ugly scene in an entire month.

Oh, and bowing while saying 'hello', 'please', and 'thank you' in Thai will certainly help endear yourself to the local people.

Khob Khun Kaaaa!

Number Four:  The Culture

Wat Umong temple in Chiang Mai.

Wat Umong temple in Chiang Mai.

I'm embarrassed to say that my impression of Thailand prior to visiting was a bit on the tawdry side.  I couldn't have been more wrong. Bangkok is definitely not one big sin town and I was pleasantly surprised how very little sleaze I saw (granted, we didn't seek it out).

Silom district, Bangkok.

Silom district, Bangkok.

Thailand is a magnificent fusion of modern secular and traditional Buddhist values.  Countless fashionable malls and high rise offices live side by side amongst the sidewalk shrines and ornate temples. 

Doi Suthep temple, Chiang Mai.

Doi Suthep temple, Chiang Mai.

The malls are unbelievable.  First, there are so many of them.  There is always something going on, some sort of entertainment.  One day when we did our mall tour, there was a Japanese pop music showcase with live acts throughout the day and long queues for autographs and photo ops.

The rise of contemporary culture doesn't appear to be affecting the level of Buddhist devotion.  The ubiquitous makeshift shrines on nearly every street corner had just as many offerings of flowers, fruit, and incense as magnificent temples.

I found the Thai embrace of secular and spiritual very inspiring!

Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho temple, Bangkok

Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho temple, Bangkok

Wat Pho temple in Bangkok.

Wat Pho temple in Bangkok.

Number Five:  The Beach

Bophut Beach, Koh Samui

Bophut Beach, Koh Samui

Too easy?

Well, maybe, but my experience in the sun and surf of Thailand was in a class by itself.

Perry's daily mango fix.

Perry's daily mango fix.

Clear, warm water, soft sand, night cocktails while sitting on the beach on overstuffed pillows, and fresh cut fruit every afternoon, are a few of the reasons Thailand deserves all of its beach holiday accolades. 

On top of this, the prices can't be beat.  We stayed on Bophut Beach at a mid-range Western resort with three pools and included breakfast buffet for $55 per night.

My daily pineapple fix.

My daily pineapple fix.

The atmosphere was better than my actual Mai Tai.

The atmosphere was better than my actual Mai Tai.

Number Six:  The Cost of Living

'Budget' living in Bangkok.

'Budget' living in Bangkok.

I was gobsmacked that we lived so well on so little.  Understandably, this is the biggest reason Thailand is the number one digital nomad destination around.  If you are paid your home country's salary and live in Thailand, life is very good, indeed.  

Even if you are 'budget with some comfort' travelers like us, we had no problem finding beautiful, yet well-priced accommodations.  Our apartments between Bangkok and Chiang Mai averaged $38 per night and all had a pool and gym.  

Our apartment building in Chiang Mai.

Our apartment building in Chiang Mai.

Thailand is one of few places where eating out is actually the cost-effective thing to do.  Our cooking facilities were slightly limited, and buying groceries seemed expensive and inefficient compared to walking around the corner and ordering two delicious plates of food for 100 baht (around $3 USD).  Our food bill was between $10-$15 per day as we spent a lot on fresh fruit and the occasional Western-style salad when we felt like we needed more 'roughage.'  

Green Curry Pie and a Chang beer.

Green Curry Pie and a Chang beer.

We did spend a bit more on transport than the average traveler because we wanted to see more of the country being our first visit.  Our day train tickets to Chiang Mai (in the north) were $18 each for a one-way 12 hour train ride that included snacks and lunch.  Even the overnight train to the south was a reasonable $33 which included the bus to Don Sak and ferry to Koh Samui.  

Pool at the Ibis Resort, Koh Samui.

Pool at the Ibis Resort, Koh Samui.

All tallied, even with our 'splurge' staying at a resort on Koh Samui, we ended up at $84 per day, well under our $100/day target.  Had we targeted one location, it would have been closer to $50/day!

Number Seven:  The Cats

We visited four cat cafes during the month and I will do a proper review very soon, but in the meantime, I can attest that between street cats and cat cafes, there are endless ways to get your kitty fix in Thailand.

I hate it when you look at me that way...

I hate it when you look at me that way...

Isn't this the Fancy Feast cat?

Isn't this the Fancy Feast cat?

'Nuff said.

Number Eight:  The Overnight Trains

I know that plenty of countries have overnight trains, but hear me out.  There is something about a Thai sleeper train that is just so darn fun.  

Sleeper car, Bangkok to Surat Thani.

Sleeper car, Bangkok to Surat Thani.

My favorite memory of our month in Thailand is sitting in a sleeper bunk with Perry, curtains drawn, while we ate snacks and watched Bangkok come to life as we headed south to Koh Samui.  From well-heeled Thais in luxury condos to the makeshift food stalls and impromptu drinking parties along the tracks, it was like I had a front row seat for the coolest show ever.  We were so snug and cozy and felt a bit like naughty teenagers as we watched the landscape shift from city to country while talking late into the night.  I didn't want it to end, but eventually, we made our way to separate bunks.

It was my personal version of 'Some Like it Hot', but without the cross-dressing and Manhattans.

DISCLOSURE: Perry didn't dress like a woman for our overnight train to Koh Samui.

DISCLOSURE: Perry didn't dress like a woman for our overnight train to Koh Samui.

THINGS I DIDN'T LOVE

Because 'hate' is such an ugly word.

Naturally, no place on earth is perfect and there are downsides to every spot, including Thailand.  As much as I loved my time there, a few things were less than ideal.

Number One:  Thailand is NOT Pedestrian Friendly

Unless you are hiking in the jungle.  And even then, you have to share the path with snakes.

Remember the time I almost stepped on a pink coral snake?  Hilarity!

Remember the time I almost stepped on a pink coral snake?  Hilarity!

For these hard core walkers, it was a huge blow.  Our favorite activity is to walk the streets of whatever town or city we are visiting.  After a few near deadly attempts to navigate around crumbled/non-existent sidewalks and snarls of motorbikes/crazy tuk-tuk drivers, we gave up.

We found hiking kindred spirits on the trail up Doi Suthep!

We found hiking kindred spirits on the trail up Doi Suthep!

We were told that unless you are a peasant who couldn't afford it, why would you want to walk when there is an overabundance of motorbikes, tuk-tuks, red trucks, taxis AND Uber at your doorstep?

I attempted a feeble protest, 'Because it's good for you, and you see more, and with all the food I'm eating...'  I stopped and hailed a red truck (songthaew), a pick-up truck with benches in the flat bed and a topper with an open back.  

Let's just say our Asian mileage count is not at European levels, yet.

Can't walk?  Take a songthaew.

Can't walk?  Take a songthaew.

Number Two:   The Sewer Smell

Throw in rats the size of house cats and I'm convinced the world's worst job is a sewer maintenance worker in Thailand.

Our apartment in Chiang Mai was on a particularly smelly street and there was no avoiding the wafting odor on our way to lunch and dinner every day.  Talk about an appetite suppressant.

I probably needed it considering I wasn't walking anywhere.

Number Three:  Thai Massage

Torture chamber.

Torture chamber.

In the name of 'experience' Perry and I decided to have a couples Thai massage and if it hadn't hurt so bad, we would probably laugh about it now.  Maybe someday.

Thai massage combines acupressure and yoga which is supposed to stimulate energy lines, stretch and loosen tightened muscles and release tension.

I've never been a huge fan of deep tissue massage and find I enjoy the Swedish variety if it's not too rough.  So, when I watched a YouTube video of Thai massage the day before, I gently requested that my masseuse use a 'lighter touch.'

Of course, this completely backfired, as she began to dig into my flesh as hard as she could.  If she sensed something actually felt pleasurable, she immediately went into torture mode.  After 20 agonizing minutes of what can only be described as 'calf cranks', I didn't think I could take any more, let alone the 100 minutes that remained.  I looked over and saw Perry being twisted into a human pretzel which made me completely lose it and laugh out loud.

This resulted in several more minutes of what I like to call 'the knuckle treatment' to my already bruised calves.

'Oh, but it's so therapeutic and good for you,' I'm told later by the people in my cooking class. 'You feel amazing afterwards.'   Yes, you feel great because they have stopped beating you to a bloody pulp.  

I took my massage budget and bought mango sticky rice instead.

 

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked:  I Quit My Job to Travel:  One Year Later

 

 

 

← Things I'm Getting Used To: Eating in China EditionEat, Play, Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Part II →

TRAVEL BLOG

  • December 2018
    • Dec 17, 2018 Friends From the Road: Darren's Story Dec 17, 2018
  • August 2018
    • Aug 29, 2018 Travel Essentials I Can't Live Without Aug 29, 2018
    • Aug 4, 2018 My Weirdest Travel Habits Aug 4, 2018
  • July 2018
    • Jul 20, 2018 What I Packed For The Last Six Months of Travel Jul 20, 2018
    • Jul 5, 2018 We Interrupt Our Travel To Bring You The Following Message Jul 5, 2018
  • April 2018
    • Apr 29, 2018 The Best Cat Cafes in Tokyo Apr 29, 2018
  • January 2018
    • Jan 20, 2018 The Five Best Cat Cafes in Osaka, Japan Jan 20, 2018
    • Jan 1, 2018 The Best & Worst of 2017: Our Second Year on the Road Jan 1, 2018
  • December 2017
    • Dec 21, 2017 A Week in Mexico City Dec 21, 2017
  • November 2017
    • Nov 23, 2017 Thanks or No Thanks? Our Worst Travel Mishaps in Europe Nov 23, 2017
  • October 2017
    • Oct 1, 2017 Global Travel on a Budget: Best Airbnb's For $50/Night (or less!) Oct 1, 2017
  • September 2017
    • Sep 24, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Europe, Round II Sep 24, 2017
    • Sep 22, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes In Seoul, South Korea Sep 22, 2017
    • Sep 14, 2017 A Girl's Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina Sep 14, 2017
    • Sep 3, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes From Around the World Sep 3, 2017
  • August 2017
    • Aug 21, 2017 Home Sweet Home Aug 21, 2017
  • July 2017
    • Jul 28, 2017 The Many Moods of Japan Jul 28, 2017
    • Jul 14, 2017 I Quit My Job to Travel: Sixteen Months Later Jul 14, 2017
    • Jul 2, 2017 Trekking Mongolia: Tips & Advice For the Best Tour Experience Jul 2, 2017
  • June 2017
    • Jun 13, 2017 A Travel Day in the Life of a Full-Time Traveler Jun 13, 2017
  • May 2017
    • May 31, 2017 Among Nomads: Nine Days on the Mongolian Steppe May 31, 2017
    • May 26, 2017 A Typical Day in the Life of a Full-Time Traveler May 26, 2017
    • May 19, 2017 China: Two Months, Nine Highs, Four Lows & Eight Tips May 19, 2017
    • May 5, 2017 Scenery & Sandstorms: 28 Hours on a Train to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia May 5, 2017
  • April 2017
    • Apr 28, 2017 Eat, Play, Love: A Review of Thailand's Cat Cafes Apr 28, 2017
    • Apr 19, 2017 Hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge: A Complete Guide For The Average-ly Fit Apr 19, 2017
    • Apr 6, 2017 Long-Term Travel & Relationships: The Peaks & Perils of 24/7 Togetherness Apr 6, 2017
  • March 2017
    • Mar 29, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Eating in China Edition Mar 29, 2017
    • Mar 11, 2017 Eight Things I Loved About Thailand (and three things I didn't) Mar 11, 2017
  • February 2017
    • Feb 20, 2017 Eat, Play, Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Part II Feb 20, 2017
    • Feb 10, 2017 What I Packed For A Six Month Trip to Asia Feb 10, 2017
  • January 2017
    • Jan 25, 2017 Actions & Words: A Week Volunteering In Spain Jan 25, 2017
    • Jan 13, 2017 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: What We Ate in Europe Jan 13, 2017
    • Jan 6, 2017 The Best and Worst of 2016: Our First Year of Full-Time Travel Jan 6, 2017
  • December 2016
    • Dec 31, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part II: Kitchen & Shopping Tips for Budget Travelers Dec 31, 2016
    • Dec 9, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part I: Recipe Ideas for Budget Travelers Dec 9, 2016
  • November 2016
    • Nov 30, 2016 A Tale of Two Cities: Lisbon & Porto Nov 30, 2016
    • Nov 23, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Thanksgiving Edition Nov 23, 2016
  • October 2016
    • Oct 29, 2016 Who Needs Sleep? A Dream Week in Bilbao Oct 29, 2016
    • Oct 23, 2016 Six Reasons to Visit Bulgaria Oct 23, 2016
    • Oct 15, 2016 Forget Dracula, Brasov is the Transylvania You Want to See Oct 15, 2016
    • Oct 9, 2016 How The Grinch Toured Bucharest Oct 9, 2016
    • Oct 5, 2016 Pet Sitting & Travel: Why Do It and How It Works Oct 5, 2016
  • September 2016
    • Sep 28, 2016 Transition to Travel: How To Prepare For A Mid-Career Break Sep 28, 2016
    • Sep 24, 2016 Travel Packing Update: Winners & Losers Sep 24, 2016
    • Sep 13, 2016 Wrong Turns Made Right: Belgrade, Serbia Sep 13, 2016
    • Sep 9, 2016 The Numbers Issue Sep 9, 2016
    • Sep 3, 2016 A Mystical Journey: Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina Sep 3, 2016
  • August 2016
    • Aug 19, 2016 A Holiday in Croatia Aug 19, 2016
    • Aug 8, 2016 Have a Nice Stay: Tips to Maximize Your Airbnb Experience Aug 8, 2016
    • Aug 4, 2016 Ode To Joyce: Trieste Aug 4, 2016
  • July 2016
    • Jul 26, 2016 Where is Slovenia and Why Should You Go There? Jul 26, 2016
    • Jul 15, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part III Jul 15, 2016
    • Jul 9, 2016 Four (Affordable) Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest Jul 9, 2016
  • June 2016
    • Jun 30, 2016 Top Ten RTW Trip Highlights (So Far) Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 30, 2016 The Art of Appreciation: Bratislava Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 22, 2016 A Vacation in Salzburg (or An Excuse to Post Photos of Sound of Music Sites & Mountains) Jun 22, 2016
    • Jun 17, 2016 Eat. Play. Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Jun 17, 2016
    • Jun 11, 2016 Three Days in Riga Jun 11, 2016
    • Jun 7, 2016 Philosophical Musings & Progressive Estonia Jun 7, 2016
    • Jun 1, 2016 Last Night A Big Mac Saved My Life: St. Petersburg Jun 1, 2016
  • May 2016
    • May 27, 2016 Rough & Ready(?) Helsinki May 27, 2016
    • May 22, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part II May 22, 2016
    • May 19, 2016 Beyond Stereotypes: Stockholm May 19, 2016
    • May 17, 2016 Stockholm Surprise: A Visit to the US Embassy May 17, 2016
    • May 10, 2016 Oslo: My Spirit Animal? May 10, 2016
    • May 8, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To May 8, 2016
    • May 4, 2016 Split Personality: Copenhagen May 4, 2016
    • May 1, 2016 Baby, It's Cold Outside May 1, 2016
  • April 2016
    • Apr 27, 2016 Three Days in Cornwall Apr 27, 2016
    • Apr 23, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part III: Providence Apr 23, 2016
    • Apr 21, 2016 It Begins Apr 21, 2016
    • Apr 17, 2016 What I Packed for a Year of Round the World (RTW) Travel Part II: Toiletries, Electronics & Miscellaneous Apr 17, 2016
    • Apr 5, 2016 What I Packed for a Year of Round the World (RTW) Travel Apr 5, 2016
    • Apr 1, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part II: Patience Apr 1, 2016
  • March 2016
    • Mar 16, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part I: Preparation Mar 16, 2016
    • Mar 6, 2016 The 3 P’s of Planning Long Term Travel: Preparation, Patience & Providence Mar 6, 2016

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Every week, we will post new stories, photos and videos from the road.  We would love to hear from you with any suggestions or recommendations as we move from country to country!

Paula LaBine, 2017