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A moment of cheer in between the rain and cold

A moment of cheer in between the rain and cold

Thanks or No Thanks? Our Worst Travel Mishaps in Europe

November 23, 2017

Three and a half months on the Old Continent are coming to a close and in the spirit of Thanksgiving, I know I should be thinking about all the things for which I am grateful.  

But that would be boring, right?

All this travel is supposed to help me find my zen (or at least something resembling it, dammit!), but after fifteen weeks, sixteen countries and twenty seven different places called 'home', I'm exhausted and in the mood to whine a bit.  

So, if you will indulge me while I get this negativity out of my system, I promise to end on a positive note.

THE RAIN

First, I will begin with the nonstop rain, which has been my nemesis since the end of September.  What began as a mere annoyance has become downright miserable with a couple of stories I will share for your Thanksgiving entertainment.

Bus Stop:  Riga, Latvia

Trusty instructions from our Airbnb host clutched in my hand, we stepped off the bus from Lithuania near Riga's Central Market and made our way to the city bus station.  

Our apartment was only two miles away and normally we would just walk, but as it was raining, decided to find trolleybus 23 to, you know, make it easy on ourselves.  We stood in the busy transport area for quite awhile before we spied a bus with number 23 and quickly hopped on.  Paying the fee, we positioned ourselves out of the way and everything seemed fine until it turned a corner that didn't match up with my map.  

After several minutes, realizing we were moving farther and farther away from our destination, the bus stopped and the driver turned around, yelling at us in Latvian while pointing at the street.  It was the end of the line, and he was telling us to 'hit the road, Jack'. 

So there we were, in the middle of nowhere Riga.  I was too furious to take another bus back to the center and figure out where things went wrong, so decided to cool my heels and without consulting Perry (sorry, babe), began to walk in the direction of our apartment.

Riga Trolleybus

Riga Trolleybus

Texting with the owner, I was informed that there is a difference between a bus and a trolleybus.  Trolleybuses look like regular buses, but are also attached to overhead cables.  Apparently we had taken an ordinary bus.  Why the authorities in Riga felt the need to use the same number for two different services that stop in the same place (where most tourists arrive in the country) remains a cruel mystery to me.  There is no logic in this place.  (Said in Sad Cat Diary voice)

Eventually, cold, wet and exhausted, we made it our apartment, but the buses of Riga weren't done with me yet.  The next day, we stood outside our apartment (in the pouring rain, of course), debating if we should walk one mile to the mall or catch the bus.  I turned to point to the bus stop about 100 feet away when the 23 trolleybus sped past me and splashed a large puddle directly into my face.

Drenched, I turned to Perry whose shocked face searched mine for a reaction.

I burst into laughter, because considering the day before, it was pretty funny.

GETTING THE BOOT:  Paris, France

I'm proud of my nearly complete transformation from fashion-saddled overpacker to dressed-down spare traveler.  But while I gave zero shits about how I looked in Asia, there is something about traipsing about the cities of Europe that the remaining hint of my former self demands I TRY to look as pulled together as possible.  

Thus, the boots.  

The Boots, RIP.

The Boots, RIP.

Bulky, sweaty and impractical for a full-time traveler that needs to prepared to walk miles at a moments notice, I realize the decision to bring my black Frye boots was irrational and borderline ridiculous.  But I did.

While I didn't wear them during the waning days of August and first week of September, temperatures cooled quickly and I pretty much wore them every day until the end of October.  Then, the Boot Curse of Paris struck again.

First, the back story.

Paris, New Year's Eve 2013. 

Paris New Years.jpg

Perry and I visited the City of Light to ring in the New Year under the Eiffel Tower.  I was convinced it would be memorable and soo romantic.  Well, it was memorable.  

I had a special outfit and thought I was oh-so-Paris chic.  I can't even remember what clothes I wore anymore, but I do know what I had on my feet.

Frye boots.  Gray leather.  Brand new.  Gorgeous.  

It could have been the best night ever, for me and my boots, but instead it rained.

I mean POURED.  We looked like drowned rats standing under the Eiffel Tower and after the underwhelming light show at midnight, began trudging back to the hotel, about three miles away, because all of the metro stations were closed.  I remember it well because my feet were soaking wet and the leather soles of my boots kept slipping on the slick pavement in a bizarre and irritating dance sequence:  clip, clop, slide, repeat.  ACK!

Back in our room, my feet were a hot mess of blisters and the boots, ruined. Lesson learned, right?

Paris, October 29, 2017

Smiling through the blisters

Smiling through the blisters

After dropping our bags at left luggage in Gare du Nord, we took the metro to Cité with the plan to walk along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower.  Despite no mention of it in the forecast, it began to rain.  Initially, I was cool about it and we popped into a cafe for some coffee.  After an hour, it had let up slightly so decided to give it a go and down the Quai Voltaire we went!

Thirty minutes later, we arrived at Invalides station, which was appropriate considering my feet were soaking wet and had so many blisters, I could hardly walk.

Back at Gare du Nord, we spent hours in the cold standing around waiting for our Eurostar to London.  Eight hours after our walk in the rain, I finally removed my footwear and took stock of the damage.  Four blisters, two frozen feet and one pair of ruined boots.

I stashed them in the closet of Sue and Roger's house in Yaxley and when we returned to Paris on November 17, they were laid to rest in a dumpster in Versailles, which is a pretty classy funeral, for shoes.

I'd like to think this won't happen again, but....

THE COLD

So, if it hasn't been pouring, it's been freezing.  Like a miserable bickering couple, rainy and cold just go together!

We've lacked sufficient heat in many of our European apartments with Vienna, Vilnius, Riga, Belfast and Paris having none at all!  They eventually fixed the heat in Paris, but for a while, it all felt very starving artist as I bundled up and wrote by candlelight in our crappy, cold apartment.  At least Riga had a space heater which I positioned next to me, huddled over my laptop, blanket pulled tight around my shoulders. I couldn't help but feel I was in a Dickens novel of my own creation.

I'd like to think this won't happen again but...

TRAVEL MISHAPS

All travelers have mishaps at some point.  Be it injury, theft or transport snafu, these moments can range from minor inconvenience to major disaster.   I'm grateful to have never had a true catastrophe, just a debacle or two.

Eurostar: What Happened?

The first time I took the Eurostar, it was 2011 and it was my 40th Birthday.  We had started the day with breakfast in Geneva, lunched outside on a glorious sunny day in Paris and ended the evening with fish and chips in London.

Between Paris and London, I was able to enjoy a glass of champagne and scenery in the comfortable, classy environs of Eurostar.  Between 2012-2014,  I rode on Eurostar several more times and had no reason to think anything had changed.

That was then, this is now.

Eurostar 2017 is something else.  After waiting in an angry mob-style queue for hours, our train departed over one hour late causing us to miss our onward journey to Peterborough, forcing us to buy new tickets at triple the cost.  The coach itself was woefully rundown and dirty, but one thing has remained the same, the outrageous fortune they charge to take this service.  

I'd like to think this won't happen again but....

Belfast:  Know Your Airport

We flew from London Luton to Belfast International in Northern Ireland a few weeks ago and our time there was a fine experience, highlighted by a day trip to Dublin.  On the day of our flight to Paris, we were up early and walked a mile (in the rain OF COURSE) to the bus station at 6 am to catch the airport shuttle which takes about 40 minutes.  Inside the airport, we decided to exchange our Pounds into Euros, when the cashier noticed my boarding pass and with a full on Irish accent, said the following:

'Darlin, ye be at the wrong airport, it's City Airport ye be wantin'.  Ah, and at this hour gettin' there ain't goin' to be pretty.'

If I hadn't been so freaked out, I would have queried her further to be sure the accent wasn't fake.

Fast forward, and a long, expensive cab ride back into town and George Best City Airport, we did make our flight, but not without a ton of angst.   Even though I'm aware lots of cities have two airports, I really didn't think Belfast was one of them. 

I'd like to think this won't happen again but.....  

THANKFUL FOR FRIENDS

So, there is our European autumn in a nutshell- cold, wet, tiring.  But I promised to end on a positive note, so here it is. 

I'm grateful for my friends & family all over the world, especially the ones who helped make these last few less-than-ideal travel months worth it.   In Sweden, Germany, Austria, Netherlands, France, UK and the US (including the wedding of two very lovely people), we had wonderful moments with friends old and new, including several of the feline variety.

Last but not least, we've hit up forty two cat cafes in the last fifteen weeks.  Check out theneighborscat.com if you want to hear more about our crazy cat adventures.

Cat Cafe Vilnius in Vilnius, Lithuania

Cat Cafe Vilnius in Vilnius, Lithuania

Cat Village North, Chesterfield, United Kingdom

Cat Village North, Chesterfield, United Kingdom

Nurri Kassikohvik in Tallin, Estonia

Nurri Kassikohvik in Tallin, Estonia

Cafe des Chats in Paris, France

Cafe des Chats in Paris, France

Happy Thanksgiving America and thanks for reading!

 

← A Week in Mexico CityGlobal Travel on a Budget: Best Airbnb's For $50/Night (or less!) →

TRAVEL BLOG

  • December 2018
    • Dec 17, 2018 Friends From the Road: Darren's Story Dec 17, 2018
  • August 2018
    • Aug 29, 2018 Travel Essentials I Can't Live Without Aug 29, 2018
    • Aug 4, 2018 My Weirdest Travel Habits Aug 4, 2018
  • July 2018
    • Jul 20, 2018 What I Packed For The Last Six Months of Travel Jul 20, 2018
    • Jul 5, 2018 We Interrupt Our Travel To Bring You The Following Message Jul 5, 2018
  • April 2018
    • Apr 29, 2018 The Best Cat Cafes in Tokyo Apr 29, 2018
  • January 2018
    • Jan 20, 2018 The Five Best Cat Cafes in Osaka, Japan Jan 20, 2018
    • Jan 1, 2018 The Best & Worst of 2017: Our Second Year on the Road Jan 1, 2018
  • December 2017
    • Dec 21, 2017 A Week in Mexico City Dec 21, 2017
  • November 2017
    • Nov 23, 2017 Thanks or No Thanks? Our Worst Travel Mishaps in Europe Nov 23, 2017
  • October 2017
    • Oct 1, 2017 Global Travel on a Budget: Best Airbnb's For $50/Night (or less!) Oct 1, 2017
  • September 2017
    • Sep 24, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Europe, Round II Sep 24, 2017
    • Sep 22, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes In Seoul, South Korea Sep 22, 2017
    • Sep 14, 2017 A Girl's Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina Sep 14, 2017
    • Sep 3, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes From Around the World Sep 3, 2017
  • August 2017
    • Aug 21, 2017 Home Sweet Home Aug 21, 2017
  • July 2017
    • Jul 28, 2017 The Many Moods of Japan Jul 28, 2017
    • Jul 14, 2017 I Quit My Job to Travel: Sixteen Months Later Jul 14, 2017
    • Jul 2, 2017 Trekking Mongolia: Tips & Advice For the Best Tour Experience Jul 2, 2017
  • June 2017
    • Jun 13, 2017 A Travel Day in the Life of a Full-Time Traveler Jun 13, 2017
  • May 2017
    • May 31, 2017 Among Nomads: Nine Days on the Mongolian Steppe May 31, 2017
    • May 26, 2017 A Typical Day in the Life of a Full-Time Traveler May 26, 2017
    • May 19, 2017 China: Two Months, Nine Highs, Four Lows & Eight Tips May 19, 2017
    • May 5, 2017 Scenery & Sandstorms: 28 Hours on a Train to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia May 5, 2017
  • April 2017
    • Apr 28, 2017 Eat, Play, Love: A Review of Thailand's Cat Cafes Apr 28, 2017
    • Apr 19, 2017 Hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge: A Complete Guide For The Average-ly Fit Apr 19, 2017
    • Apr 6, 2017 Long-Term Travel & Relationships: The Peaks & Perils of 24/7 Togetherness Apr 6, 2017
  • March 2017
    • Mar 29, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Eating in China Edition Mar 29, 2017
    • Mar 11, 2017 Eight Things I Loved About Thailand (and three things I didn't) Mar 11, 2017
  • February 2017
    • Feb 20, 2017 Eat, Play, Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Part II Feb 20, 2017
    • Feb 10, 2017 What I Packed For A Six Month Trip to Asia Feb 10, 2017
  • January 2017
    • Jan 25, 2017 Actions & Words: A Week Volunteering In Spain Jan 25, 2017
    • Jan 13, 2017 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: What We Ate in Europe Jan 13, 2017
    • Jan 6, 2017 The Best and Worst of 2016: Our First Year of Full-Time Travel Jan 6, 2017
  • December 2016
    • Dec 31, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part II: Kitchen & Shopping Tips for Budget Travelers Dec 31, 2016
    • Dec 9, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part I: Recipe Ideas for Budget Travelers Dec 9, 2016
  • November 2016
    • Nov 30, 2016 A Tale of Two Cities: Lisbon & Porto Nov 30, 2016
    • Nov 23, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Thanksgiving Edition Nov 23, 2016
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    • Oct 29, 2016 Who Needs Sleep? A Dream Week in Bilbao Oct 29, 2016
    • Oct 23, 2016 Six Reasons to Visit Bulgaria Oct 23, 2016
    • Oct 15, 2016 Forget Dracula, Brasov is the Transylvania You Want to See Oct 15, 2016
    • Oct 9, 2016 How The Grinch Toured Bucharest Oct 9, 2016
    • Oct 5, 2016 Pet Sitting & Travel: Why Do It and How It Works Oct 5, 2016
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    • Sep 28, 2016 Transition to Travel: How To Prepare For A Mid-Career Break Sep 28, 2016
    • Sep 24, 2016 Travel Packing Update: Winners & Losers Sep 24, 2016
    • Sep 13, 2016 Wrong Turns Made Right: Belgrade, Serbia Sep 13, 2016
    • Sep 9, 2016 The Numbers Issue Sep 9, 2016
    • Sep 3, 2016 A Mystical Journey: Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina Sep 3, 2016
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    • Aug 19, 2016 A Holiday in Croatia Aug 19, 2016
    • Aug 8, 2016 Have a Nice Stay: Tips to Maximize Your Airbnb Experience Aug 8, 2016
    • Aug 4, 2016 Ode To Joyce: Trieste Aug 4, 2016
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    • Jul 26, 2016 Where is Slovenia and Why Should You Go There? Jul 26, 2016
    • Jul 15, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part III Jul 15, 2016
    • Jul 9, 2016 Four (Affordable) Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest Jul 9, 2016
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    • Jun 30, 2016 Top Ten RTW Trip Highlights (So Far) Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 30, 2016 The Art of Appreciation: Bratislava Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 22, 2016 A Vacation in Salzburg (or An Excuse to Post Photos of Sound of Music Sites & Mountains) Jun 22, 2016
    • Jun 17, 2016 Eat. Play. Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Jun 17, 2016
    • Jun 11, 2016 Three Days in Riga Jun 11, 2016
    • Jun 7, 2016 Philosophical Musings & Progressive Estonia Jun 7, 2016
    • Jun 1, 2016 Last Night A Big Mac Saved My Life: St. Petersburg Jun 1, 2016
  • May 2016
    • May 27, 2016 Rough & Ready(?) Helsinki May 27, 2016
    • May 22, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part II May 22, 2016
    • May 19, 2016 Beyond Stereotypes: Stockholm May 19, 2016
    • May 17, 2016 Stockholm Surprise: A Visit to the US Embassy May 17, 2016
    • May 10, 2016 Oslo: My Spirit Animal? May 10, 2016
    • May 8, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To May 8, 2016
    • May 4, 2016 Split Personality: Copenhagen May 4, 2016
    • May 1, 2016 Baby, It's Cold Outside May 1, 2016
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    • Apr 27, 2016 Three Days in Cornwall Apr 27, 2016
    • Apr 23, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part III: Providence Apr 23, 2016
    • Apr 21, 2016 It Begins Apr 21, 2016
    • Apr 17, 2016 What I Packed for a Year of Round the World (RTW) Travel Part II: Toiletries, Electronics & Miscellaneous Apr 17, 2016
    • Apr 5, 2016 What I Packed for a Year of Round the World (RTW) Travel Apr 5, 2016
    • Apr 1, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part II: Patience Apr 1, 2016
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    • Mar 16, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part I: Preparation Mar 16, 2016
    • Mar 6, 2016 The 3 P’s of Planning Long Term Travel: Preparation, Patience & Providence Mar 6, 2016

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Follow Along!

 


Every week, we will post new stories, photos and videos from the road.  We would love to hear from you with any suggestions or recommendations as we move from country to country!

Paula LaBine, 2017