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View from our bedroom in Trieste, Italy

View from our bedroom in Trieste, Italy

Have a Nice Stay: Tips to Maximize Your Airbnb Experience

August 8, 2016

My partner and I have stayed at twenty Airbnb's in as many European cities so far during our year of travel.  With the exception of a few overnight cruises and a handful of hotel rooms, the last four months have been spent exclusively in Airbnb apartments.  

The reasons are numerous.  Low prices.  Ability to live like locals, outside the tourist district.  Option to cook our own food (for health and cost).  Access to the comforts of home, like a washing machine.  Since, we are living on the road and not vacationing, all of these things are hugely important to us and generally not to be found at your average hotel.   

View from our bedroom window in Brasov, Romania

View from our bedroom window in Brasov, Romania

Consider cost.  First and foremost, the price of an Airbnb can't be beat.  We have found most will run you one-third to one-half the cost of a Western hotel.  Related, if you have kitchen facilities, you have the ability to buy groceries and cook meals, further keeping your costs down.  In fact, we tend to rent out entire apartments vs. rooms for this reason.  It is certainly less costly to rent just a room via Airbnb rather than an entire apartment, but we've found that the money saved by doing so is spent (and then some) on dining out nearly every meal-- particularly in expensive western European cities.

Our next big consideration is comfort.  Having a clean space to write and work on projects or just hang out and relax is key for the long term traveler, but can be valuable on a short term holiday as well.  We find it just helps us feel normal.

Out of twenty stays, we have had only one major disappointment and a couple minor issues.  Yes, we've heard the horror story headlines, but overall, our experiences have been hugely positive, but that is because I have learned to better navigate the system.  I've collected my best tips gleaned from the past five months to help you book the right Airbnb for your needs, which hopefully will result in the best stay possible.

Know Thyself

Dirt cheap?  High cleanliness standards?  Super comfortable bed?  Quiet neighborhood?  Close to attractions?

Knowing what you value and what your deal breakers are is the most important thing you can do to avoid disappointment.  

Start with the type of traveler you are.  Away on business?  A working space and high speed WiFi will top the list.  Quick weekend getaway?  Staying close to the action will save time and money.  Two week vacation?  An adequate kitchen, washing machine and comfortable bed are probably going to rank highly.

For the more objective requests, Airbnb helps you with filters for everything from neighborhoods to various amenities.  We can't live without WiFi, a washing machine (with our small backpacks, we need to wash every third day) and in the sweltering European summer, air conditioning.  For others, maybe it's pet accommodation or having an elevator.

Once filtered, we move on to more subjective standards which require digging into reviews a bit.  Our top 'subjective' requirements are super clean, comfortable bed, and space to work on projects. 

Start by entering these key words in the search reviews window.  For example, I always search for 'clean' and if I don't see it mentioned frequently, I assume the place is dirty.  Silence speaks volumes.  I also like to see how recently someone has included this word in their review.  If you only see it mentioned in reviews that are six months to a year old, it's something to consider. 

I recommend looking for a cleaning fee.  Some may argue that the cleaning fee should probably be baked into the price (and sometimes, it is), but in my experience, when I didn't see a cleaning fee, these places tended to have a lower standard of cleanliness than I would have preferred.

It's not foolproof.  Just because you see a cleaning fee, it does not guarantee cleanliness.  To increase your chances, look for a cleaning fee AND reviews that specifically call it out.  That is, if cleanliness is really high on your list of 'must haves.'  Everyone is different.

To determine work space, there is no way around it.  You need to manually look at a lot of places.  Yes, there is a 'laptop friendly' amenity selection, and I do check it, but it is a bit more subjective than a washing machine or air conditioning.  Luckily, I love to do this and find it very relaxing.  However, you don't need to spend all your free time online at Airbnb to secure a good place.  Just follow the search criteria listed above and it should point you in the right direction.  

One amenity that is NOT high on our list:  location.  Because we stay in each city for at least a week, we don't feel the need to spend precious dollars being centrally located or near tourist attractions.  We have more time than money, so we either walk or take public transportation to see the sights.  This practice has saved us money to spend on nicer accommodations further afield.  

If price is your bottom line, you may need to sacrifice more on amenities and location, but it doesn't mean you need to sleep in a dirty fleabag.  

Play the Averages

While it is recommended to list out what is important to you before you focus on price, it is definitely a key consideration and balancing scale.  Knowing a city's average per night is a good starting point to understand what is good value for money.  However, it also depends on your needs and means.  As long term travelers on a budget, we try to target $50 per night, but if the average for a city is $87 (like it is in Lisbon), then we will likely need to spend a bit more than $50.

To help lower costs, we look at places outside the main tourist areas which are priced more competitively.  For Lisbon, we just need to ensure there is a kitchen as we probably will eat out a bit less with a higher per night average.

It works the opposite as well.  If the average per night is $30 (like it is in Plovdiv, Bulgaria), then spending $50 per night is extravagant.  We try to balance out the expensive and inexpensive places we visit, targeting an overall average of $50 per night over the long haul. 

A word of caution.  Price alone (whether high or low) is not necessarily a guarantee of good or bad quality.  We have stayed in budget priced apartments that were outstanding, and conversely, paid a lot for a couple of places that weren't up to par.  Value for money is what you should aim for and the average price per night can help you determine that.

A Picture is Worth A Thousand Words

Look closely at the photos.  Look REALLY closely at photos.  Pictures can be deceiving and you need to be on the lookout for the Airbnb equivalent of Jedi mind tricks.   

First, look at angles.  Does it look like the shower is directly over the toilet?  It probably is.  Next, look for clutter.  Be mindful of it if you don't want to rub shoulders with someone else's junk.  Be alert for missing photos.  If you don't see pictures of the bathroom or kitchen, or they are taken so far away you can't assess the cleanliness, there is a reason!

Even with careful analysis, there can be disappointments.  In Bratislava, the photographs were taken in the apartment's prime, as during our stay we discovered the couch to have peeling fabric, dingy linens and scuffs all over the walls.  In Tallinn, the shower had mold. 

Pictures can't tell you everything, (for example, clogged shower drains and cupboards full of stale food) but with careful inspection of photos plus analysis of customer reviews, you have a better chance of catching these unwelcome circumstances.

View from our balcony in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

View from our balcony in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Mad Men

When reading the owner's description, be on the lookout for words and phrases that mask a potential negative.  Cozy probably means small.  Character usually means old.  Bright and sunny?  Break out the sleeping mask.  Lively neighborhood?  Bring ear plugs to combat late night partiers. Neighborhood described as up and coming or Bohemian?  While they may certainly be artsy, also prepare for a potential dose of grimy.  None of these things are inherently bad- you just need to understand your comfort level.   See step one.

I should add that I'm not suggesting hosts are greedy jerks looking to rip you off.  Most are very good people that genuinely want you to have a great stay.  It's not insidious, it's the nature of marketing.

Luckily, it doesn't take much to decipher it.  If you live in our world of ubiquitous advertising, you can probably spot this stuff a mile away.  However, it is worth taking off the rose-colored glasses of snappy descriptions to get to the heart of a place.  Make sure the listing description is congruous with the photos... and use your common sense.  One person's cozy bedroom is someone else's claustrophobic closet.  

Net Neutrality

Airbnb operates on a double blind submission system which means hosts and guests must review each other before they can read what was written about themselves.  Blind reviews sound like the right thing to do, but in reality, you rarely get the whole truth.  Reviews are overwhelmingly positive for two reasons: 1) most people have a difficult time saying something negative, especially when you have met the other person face to face; and 2) the guest's name will be attached to the review and a future host might be reluctant to rent to a critical reviewer, fearing that he/she may be a fussy troublemaker.

Because guests rarely leave negative feedback, decoding neutral reviews (that may actually be quite negative) becomes critically important.

When examining various apartments, I start by considering the overall tone of the critiques.  Consistently effusive and rabidly raving assessments get my attention, especially when the guests take the time to describe their experience in detail.  Or, if they have stayed at the same place more than once-- this tends to point towards a better-than-average stay.  

Once I've whittled down potential apartments, I examine the reviewers themselves to see how often they have used Airbnb, and what they have said about other places.  I tend to trust experienced reviewers, especially people who are hosts themselves, but it also can be telling if they have left gushing feedback for some stays and then say something fairly neutral about the listing I'm considering.

Conversely, lots of short reviews like  'As described. Everything fine.' send up red flags.

Then there are raters who are consistently on the two extremes of the spectrum- the serial complainer (rare) and the 'most amazing place ever' appraiser (common).  Take such commenters with a grain of salt.

View from our balcony in Budapest, Hungary

View from our balcony in Budapest, Hungary

Go Pro?

In addition to examining guests, I also read up on the host.  When you click on their name, you can see how many reviews they have.  Sometimes you find an owner has multiple properties.  Is this good or bad?  Should you look for owners that just have one property?

This can be tricky.  On one hand, a person with one home tends to provide a more personal stay.  They have likely lived in the apartment so have in-depth knowledge of the property and the neighborhood.  This can be ideal if you want to get under the surface and really feel a city.  But they might not have the experience to keep the property in ideal condition or deal with unexpected challenges.  

On the other, a professional tends to know the drill.  They understand what guests like and have the resources to keep things to higher standard.  It can be a less personal experience which might not suit some tourists, but is ideal for a business trip or very private people. 

We've had both and sometimes it's a tough call.  Once, there was a manager for a professional owner who didn't know how to run the washing machine or oven and didn't have any suggestions about the area... but the place itself was fantastic.  Then, there was the time an amateur owner left weeks of leftover moldy food in the fridge and had towels and sheets that desperately needed to be replaced... but they were kind and offered insider tips about the area.  

These owner/managers have 37 properties, but provided one of our best stays!

These owner/managers have 37 properties, but provided one of our best stays!

We've had professionals and amateurs that provided both a great place AND a personalized experience.  

In our experience as long-term travelers, amateurs with one place tend to be the best.  Copenhagen, Helsinki, Brasov, Belgrade and Sofia come to mind as having both better-than-average hosts and apartments.  Professionals who are owner/managers have been better than those who used a local agent.  Our place in Budapest is a great example.  Owners that use a local agent can be good, like the place we stayed in Riga, but take the time to read the reviews to know for sure.

Final Notes

This may sound like a lot of effort depending on your perspective.  Someone going on a weekend trip might not get the return on all the research suggested here, but if you are a long-term traveler or plan to stay in a place for a week or longer, a little bit of effort yields big rewards.

The right Airbnb can have a tremendous impact on your vacation or business trip and impressions of a city.  When we look at our city rankings, we can see correlations between how well we liked our apartment and our opinion of the city overall.  

Luckily, we've been extremely fortunate to have had so many great Airbnb experiences and look forward to many more.

If you have found this article helpful and want to sign up for Airbnb, please follow this link and we both get $35 in travel credit.

Good luck and happy Airbnb-ing!

 

Tags Airbnb, Long Term Travel, Travel, European Travel, Airbnb guest tips, How to book a great Airbnb
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View from our bedroom in Trieste, Italy

View from our bedroom in Trieste, Italy

Ode To Joyce: Trieste

August 4, 2016

Trieste reminded me of Ulysses.

Ok, Trieste was definitely more fun than reading Ulysses, but like that great work of literature, it's not going to hold your hand and coddle you.  Frustratingly difficult to understand?  Aloof and a bit rude?  Brilliant and a bit insane?   Yes, and they are not apologizing.  The novel may be set in Dublin, but I'm convinced Trieste is where Joyce received his divine inspiration.

James Joyce's Ulysses holds the top spot on Goodreads 'Most Difficult Novels' list.  An avant garde darling, this famously impossible book first popularized 'stream of consciousness' storytelling, where a multitude of thoughts and feelings pass through the character's mind.  I've attempted, and failed, to get past 40 of Ulysses' 735 pages, preferring a much simpler narrative style.  I just don't like to work that hard.

While I'm not a huge Joyce fan, I do love history and literature, and welcomed our visit to Trieste for this reason.  Joyce lived there for ten years between 1905 and 1915, before WWI forced his move to Zurich.  At the time, Trieste had a thriving artist community and a Viennese coffeehouse scene to match it.  The scene was unable to weather WWI, one many battles over the past 2000+ years to determine under which border Trieste should be claimed.  

An important Adriatic seaport that is technically part of the Balkan peninsula, Trieste has been occupied by the Romans, Byzantines, Franks and then 800 years of relative calm under Austro-Hungarian (Habsburg) rule with a couple of Venetian and Ottoman skirmishes thrown in to shake things up.  

This border battle is at the heart of the city's identity with pieces of the various empires at every corner, creating a culture all its own.  But I couldn't help associate my experiences in Trieste with one of its most famous residents as we visited over Bloomsday- a global celebration of Joyce and Ulysses held every year on June 16, the date the novel is set.  

In honor of Joyce, I will season my recap of Trieste with an essence of Ulysses.  

Episode I:  Welcome, or Not?

As we approached the Old City and its narrow and steep medieval streets, we experienced a panic-inducing anxiety as we attempted to park the car.  When I say narrow and steep, these aren't throw away descriptions.  Driving a manual vehicle on cobble at 15% graded (allegedly) two-way streets with pedestrians walking down the middle made for a new definition of 'thrill ride'.  

'This can't be a real street,' I half shrieked at least five times as we held our breath and cringed while turning corners.

As I 'directed' and Perry drove, we cursed the lack of train service between Slovenia and Italy.  At least the drive between Ljubljana to Trieste was fantastic- all beautiful scenery and modern highways.  Powering through the navigation nausea, at last, we abandoned the Opel at the top of Cathedral Hill, not to be touched until we were forced to repeat the terror upon leaving the city.

This is a two-way street.  For cars.  For real.

This is a two-way street.  For cars.  For real.

Once inside our accommodation however, moods improved upon meeting our roommate, Attila the Cat, and the view from the window.   Attila, who was rescued from Slovenia, sports a nub for a tail, and has a penchant for rough play.

Attila ponders his next attack

Attila ponders his next attack

After a warm greeting and cup of strong espresso served up by Francesco (Attila's owner), we set out to explore.  The Old City is a mix of historic sites and pedestrian streets filled with cafes, restaurants and shops near the seafront.

Trieste waterfront

Trieste waterfront

At the center is the main square, Piazza Unita d'Italia, home to City Hall and Caffe Degli Specchi, where we were received and served drinks with sullen indifference.  Later, we would look back on this as the apex of our foodservice interactions.

Main square Piazza Unita d'Italia,

Main square Piazza Unita d'Italia,

Peek of City Hall from Caffe Degli Specchi

Peek of City Hall from Caffe Degli Specchi

After walking around in the heat, we stopped for gelato that had rave reviews, but after our Vigo experience in Ljubljana, it was disappointingly lacking in flavor which matched the bland encounter with the attendant.

We decided to head to dinner, armed with two recommendations from our host.  After a long walk, we found the first one closed.  When we entered the second restaurant at 6 pm, they had just opened and the place was empty.  Before I could even get the words out of my mouth, the host shook his head violently with a curt 'No' and then turned around!  

Gobsmacked, we wandered aimlessly around the neoclassical Austrian-era quarter looking for something that might be somewhat healthy.  We saw a couple eating salads in a place called Via Roma and so we sat, but were to experience service that even the kindliest of humans would consider downright surly.  I smiled when the waitress approached, but she stood stone faced over our table, finally giving us a wide-eyed, exasperated 'Well?  WHAT?' look and later threw our plates down on the table, not bothering to return.  

Trieste had just earned the 'least hospitable people' award of our three months on the road.

Episode II:  The Kindness of Strangers

Back at our Airbnb apartment, our generous host, Francesco, unknowingly compensated for the rudeness by devoting his entire Sunday to us.  

First, we headed north of the city to Grotta Gigante, the largest tourist cave in the world.  

Milic Zagrski Agriturismo Trieste

Milic Zagrski Agriturismo Trieste

Afterwards, we stopped at a nearby agriturismo (a farm that also serves as a restaurant) where we were joined by Francesco's friends Mike and Andrea, former Triestians that now work in London as tattoo artists.  After a lunch of delicious homemade cheeses, meats, bread, pasta and wine, we made a quick detour to a nearby cave where local teens like to party.  

We capped off the day with a stroll down the seafront promenade where the cool air and fresh breeze were a welcome relief after the hot afternoon.  Over beers (poor Perry has been forced to suck them down more often than not) and some rock tunes, we pondered our good fortune with such a personal and memorable experience in sharp contrast to the defeated feeling of the day before.  

Just when we thought it couldn't get any better, Francesco drove us back to the house and made a pasta dinner with homemade sauce.

Episode III:  The Tourists

After the TLC provided by Francesco and friends the day before, we steeled ourselves for a day alone.  But first, we stole a few tender moments with the cat.

We started at the top of Cathedral Hill for a quick peek in the church and then made our way down past Richard's Arch, a Roman ruin with a legend about King Richard passing under it while returning from the Crusades.  After stopping to admire some nice views, we came upon the Roman Theatre.  

Richard's Arch

Richard's Arch

Ruins of the Roman Theatre

Ruins of the Roman Theatre

We stopped for a carb loaded lunch and my new favorite pizza 'Quattro Stagioni', then decided to head up the hill to the village of Opacina on the old-fashioned tram.  After a short walk to grab some photos, we got caught in a severe thunderstorm and packed back into the tram with a busload of German tourists for a steamy, yet stoic ride back down.

A bit wet, but not deterred, we decided to give the Austrian quarter another try where we viewed the Grand Canal, Serbian Orthodox Church and Joyce Passage.

Our time in Trieste had come to an end.  The next day, Perry made our escape by maneuvering down streets like this until we came to the blissfully wide open and friendly spaces of Slovenia once again.

This. Is. Trieste.

This. Is. Trieste.

As we left the city, my mind was filled with thoughts ala Joyce.

...Tree-Es-Ta how on earth does anyone drive a car up here and not lose their mind I suppose the view is good but maybe thats why they are so miserable and how are they not fat with all the pasta and pizza I hope they find the treats we left the cat which pizza did I like better was it the one in the old town and what was the deal with the restaurants why did the host take one look at us and decide we were vermin did I pack my toothbrush oh what was the name of that restaurant near the cave maybe I should get at tattoo I think we will be back in Ljubljana just in time to eat some ice cream at Vigo or maybe I should just skip it and have wine...

 

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked:  A Holiday in Croatia

 

 

Tags Trieste, James Joyce, Ulysses, Grotta Gigante, Italy, Travel, Long Term Travel, European Travel
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It's pronounced Lub-lee-ana

It's pronounced Lub-lee-ana

Where is Slovenia and Why Should You Go There?

July 26, 2016

I have two confessions.

One:  Until I read an article this week in the New York Times, I had no idea that Melania Trump aka Melania Knauss aka Melanja Knavs was from Slovenia and went to high school in Ljubljana.  However, I was not surprised that her husband Donald has made only one visit to the country, a day trip to Lake Bled, in which he boasted 'The fact that I even went there was very much appreciated'.

Two:  Until 2011, I had not heard of Ljubljana.  

The first time I saw the name, I was at Luton Airport waiting for my flight to Amsterdam.  As I stood in the holding area with the other cattle, er, EasyJet passengers, waiting for my gate to appear, another destination caught my eye.  

Ljubljana.

I wracked my brain trying to place it.  Gun to my head, I would have said it was in Poland.  So I looked it up and discovered it was the capital of Slovenia.  

Fast forward to 2016.  After spending over a week in Slovenia, I'm so enamored of the country, I might just make it my life's ambition to retire there.  It's a lot like Switzerland, super clean with a high standard of living and rugged natural beauty, but friendlier and cheaper.  At the crossroads of Slavic, Germanic and Latin cultures, you can also be assured of a variety of amazing cuisine.  And it's far less crowded.  

Don't be like Donald Trump.  A day in certainly not enough, especially if your wife is from there.  And while a week in this beautiful country may seem like a lot compared to rockstar destinations like France or Italy, Slovenia is like your favorite pair of jeans.  So comfortable, you just reach for them over and over.

Smart Start

It didn't start off a fairytale, but after a few 'first world problems', we got to our happy ending.  

We had just finished eight fun-filled days in Budapest and were looking forward to the train journey to Ljubljana after reading about it on The Man in Seat 61.  Yes, it would be a ten hour travel day, but with beautiful scenery, cozy environs and a well-stocked restaurant car, why not?

Let me just say that even if the train advertises a restaurant car, I implore you to pack a substantial lunch and plenty of water.  For whatever reason, the Hungarians felt that providing access to basic necessities during a ten hour travel day was not necessary at all.  

Luckily, I had packed a sandwich and one 16 oz bottle of water which I consumed at 11 am.  Still thirsty, I walked to the next car and discovered we were only two cars and an engine- no restaurant car, no snack bar.   At 1 pm, an attendant walked through and when I asked where I could get water, she squinted her eyes and hissed 'Ljubljana'.  When I said that was an awfully long time from now, she muttered something unintelligible (probably 'Go eff yourself') as she walked away.  We were due to arrive into Ljubljana around 5:30 pm and had departed Budapest at 7:30 am.  I thought about all those trips from Peterborough to London King's Cross where there was not only a bar car, but also someone pushing a snack cart, all for a 45 minute journey.  Naturally, without access to water, I felt extreme thirst and pouted in my seat while watching the two men in front of me share a six pack of beer.

She took pity on me and came back an hour later with news that the train would stop for 10 minutes in the next town and that I could get off for water.  There were no announcements to this effect.  When we finally arrived in Ljubljana, we walked into town with an American retiree who had just completed a two year Peace Corps assignment in Kyrgyzstan (pronounced Kurg-iss-tan).  He mentioned that he had not packed any food or water, but was so matter-of-fact about it, I can only assume he endured far greater hardships in Kyrgyzstan.

Day One & Two:  Old Town Ljubljana

Our travel day quickly forgotten, we spent the first couple of days in Slovenia immersing ourselves in beautiful Old Town Ljubljana.  Easy-going, like the city, the Ljubljanica River gently winds through the Old Town offering relaxing views for patrons sitting alongside the many restaurants, pubs and cafes.  Our apartment was on the far edge of the pedestrian zone so we had easy access to the riverfront and returned to it again and again.  

Canalside

Canalside

What I love most about Old Town is that it has three distinct personalties to suit whatever mood you are in.  

  1. The Fortress side and Mestni street have that Medieval feel with cobbles and narrow alleys.  The restaurants are more upscale with a quiet, romantic atmosphere to them.  
  2. Canalside, the bars and restaurants beckon you with an Aperol spritz and great people-watching.  It's fun and lively, yet classy.
  3. West of the river, the University dominates the scene with youthful exuberance.  The busy streets are full of teens in cheap and cheerful food shops pumping out techno beats while in contrast, students in the nearby music academy fill the air with the sounds of stringed and brass instruments.
Preparing for a music festival while the Fortress looms above

Preparing for a music festival while the Fortress looms above

On the second day, we made the climb up to the fortress where we enjoyed stunning views and a short film on the history of the site and city of Ljubljana.  Afterwards, we poked around a strange puppet museum where we learned that Slovenians have a strong and sentimental love for this type of entertainment.  Quirky, but I like it. 

Afterwards, we ate what would be the first of three lunches at Hisa Pod Gradom (review at the end), then spent the rest of the day cafe hopping around Old Town.

Day Three:  Tivoli Park & Vigo Ice Cream

After a lazy morning, we headed to the far edge of Old Town and plugged in our headphones for some long overdue heart pumping exercise in Tivoli Park.  

This large green space holds Tivoli Mansion (currently houses a graphic arts center) but the real star is the incredible trail system, which takes you higher and higher above the city.  Near the top are a few cafes and if you are lucky, you might catch a game of Slovenian Bocce where rocks are used instead of balls.  Watch out for the little old lady in a gray kerchief- she's a ringer.

Back in the Old Town, the best reward for a sweaty, three-hour excursion is a scoop (or two!) of ice cream from Vigo (more at the end).  I don't care what Trip Advisor says, Cacao's ice cream is NOTHING compared to Vigo.  Trust me, GO TO VIGO.

Day Four, Five, Six:  Lake Bled

Just an hour north of the city is the world famous town of Bled, home of Lake Bled and Bled Castle.

Spectacular.  Magnificent.  Stunning.  Words will never do this area of outstanding beauty justice so I must rely on my photos which give you an idea, but still can't compare to seeing it with your own eyes.  Combined with our glamping experience, Lake Bled is the number one highlight of our trip thus far.

We took the bus to Bled and walked from the station, in the center of town, to Camping Bled on the opposite side of the lake.  The lake has a walking path that encircles it and since it's only 6 km, we walked it every day.  With views like this, you will find excuses to be near it.

The whole area is an active person's dream come true with several companies offering white water rafting, hiking and mountain biking excursions. For you party animals, there are plenty of bars and discos on the south side.   In addition to walking the lake, our repertoire included:

Rowboat to Bled Island Church

Perry took on the challenge of rowing the short distance to the island (which is actually not very easy!), but if you are feeling less adventurous, there are plenty of strapping young lads on gondolas that can take you.  The island is very small and takes about 5 minutes to walk around it, but you can also climb to the top of the church and ring the bell for a nominal fee.

Alpine Slide

Indulge your inner child with an exciting toboggan ride down the hill.  We had our biggest laughs of the day with this fun and inexpensive (14 euro for 3 rides) excursion with the added bonus of great views on the ski lift.

Vintgar Gorge

We got a great workout walking from Bled to Vintgar Gorge, but you can catch a ride for about 5 euro.  It's a popular place and the footpath was a bit crowded at times, but worth dodging death-defying sorority girls trying to get that perfect Instagram!  We got a little waylaid trying to find our way back to Bled and ran into a globe-trotting Argentinian couple for an entertaining hike swapping travel stories, proving that getting lost makes for a memorable day.

But never fear, if you are into relaxation, we did plenty of that too, eating big slices of the local specialty cream cake, chilling with a beer outside our glamping hut and taking romantic strolls at dusk. 

If you are an outdoor junkie and have more time, take an extra day and also visit nearby Lake Bohinj.  From rock climbing to kayaking to hiking in the Julian Alps, this area is an adventure seeker's paradise.

For anyone interested, I have posted a photo gallery with more amazing Lake Bled photos here.

Day Seven:  Bike the City & Cat Cafe

Back in Ljubljana, we decided to get outside of the Old Town (and work off that Lake Bled Cream Cake) with a very long walk, but for others a Bike the City tour is just the thing.  Three hours long, including a beer at Tivoli park at the end, I will certainly do this when I go back.

We are walking fools, however, and walked the trail, snapping photos along the way.  We followed this up with a drink at our favorite cat cafe Cat Caffe Ljubljana, where they serve up not only kitties and coffee, but cocktails.

Dragon Bridge

Dragon Bridge

Merri and Chilli, well, chillin'

Merri and Chilli, well, chillin'

Day Eight:  Go Underground

Take advantage of the proximity and make an excursion to Postojna or Skocjan Caves- less than an hour from Ljubljana down the brand new E61 freeway.  Postojna is one of Slovenia's most popular tourist attractions as the train system makes it easy for young and old alike to enjoy it.  Skocjan is a UNECSO world heritage site and takes a bit more exertion.  It's possible to tour both caves in one day.

This was our plan, but since we ended up touring Grotta Gigante cave in Trieste with our Airbnb host, we skipped it in favor of more time in Ljubljana.  That's how much we love it!  If you go there, let us know.  If it's anything like Grotta Gigante, you will be glad you did.

Day Ten:  Head to Zagreb

Sadly, it was time to move on, but we were thrilled to discover a place in this world that ranks amongst our favorites.  Luckily, the 2.5 hour train ride to Zagreb, Croatia was only 9 euro per person and since bargain travel makes me really happy, I was able to leave with a smile on my face.

PS.  Food & Lodging

We stayed at this lovely AirBnB apartment for most of the week, but lodged at a 'real' B & B the night before we left for Zagreb.  I want to give a shout out to Atticus B&B for providing one of the nicest budget priced experiences we have had on the road.  Exceptionally clean and modern with cute and comfortable rooms AND a killer breakfast for 65 euro per night is a total bargain.  

We had many meals in Ljubljana, but there are two places that stand out:  Hisa Pod Gradom for lunch and Vigo for Ice Cream.

Hisa Pod Gradom is located at the foot of Ljubljana Fortress just east of the Funicular on Streliska Ulica.  It's popular with locals for good reason- their 3 course lunch for 7.90 euro is a ridiculous value!  Throw in a glass of Slovenian Rose for 2.70 euro and you have a gourmet lunch worth writing home about- without the sticker shock!  With daily specials in addition to a substantial menu, I highly recommend this place whether you are on a budget or not.

I mentioned this earlier, but it's worth mentioning again.  Vigo is in the heart of Old Town (Fortress side) and is the most impressive ice cream I've had on the road.  It takes a lot for ice cream to 'wow' me and for only 1.50 euro per scoop, you get an otherworldly gourmet taste experience for a super small price.  How often can you say that?  Forget Cacao, I'm Team Vigo all the way.

 

 

 

 

Tags Slovenia, Ljubljana, Lake Bled, Long Term Travel, Travel, European Travel
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TRAVEL BLOG

  • December 2018
    • Dec 17, 2018 Friends From the Road: Darren's Story Dec 17, 2018
  • August 2018
    • Aug 29, 2018 Travel Essentials I Can't Live Without Aug 29, 2018
    • Aug 4, 2018 My Weirdest Travel Habits Aug 4, 2018
  • July 2018
    • Jul 20, 2018 What I Packed For The Last Six Months of Travel Jul 20, 2018
    • Jul 5, 2018 We Interrupt Our Travel To Bring You The Following Message Jul 5, 2018
  • April 2018
    • Apr 29, 2018 The Best Cat Cafes in Tokyo Apr 29, 2018
  • January 2018
    • Jan 20, 2018 The Five Best Cat Cafes in Osaka, Japan Jan 20, 2018
    • Jan 1, 2018 The Best & Worst of 2017: Our Second Year on the Road Jan 1, 2018
  • December 2017
    • Dec 21, 2017 A Week in Mexico City Dec 21, 2017
  • November 2017
    • Nov 23, 2017 Thanks or No Thanks? Our Worst Travel Mishaps in Europe Nov 23, 2017
  • October 2017
    • Oct 1, 2017 Global Travel on a Budget: Best Airbnb's For $50/Night (or less!) Oct 1, 2017
  • September 2017
    • Sep 24, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Europe, Round II Sep 24, 2017
    • Sep 22, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes In Seoul, South Korea Sep 22, 2017
    • Sep 14, 2017 A Girl's Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina Sep 14, 2017
    • Sep 3, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes From Around the World Sep 3, 2017
  • August 2017
    • Aug 21, 2017 Home Sweet Home Aug 21, 2017
  • July 2017
    • Jul 28, 2017 The Many Moods of Japan Jul 28, 2017
    • Jul 14, 2017 I Quit My Job to Travel: Sixteen Months Later Jul 14, 2017
    • Jul 2, 2017 Trekking Mongolia: Tips & Advice For the Best Tour Experience Jul 2, 2017
  • June 2017
    • Jun 13, 2017 A Travel Day in the Life of a Full-Time Traveler Jun 13, 2017
  • May 2017
    • May 31, 2017 Among Nomads: Nine Days on the Mongolian Steppe May 31, 2017
    • May 26, 2017 A Typical Day in the Life of a Full-Time Traveler May 26, 2017
    • May 19, 2017 China: Two Months, Nine Highs, Four Lows & Eight Tips May 19, 2017
    • May 5, 2017 Scenery & Sandstorms: 28 Hours on a Train to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia May 5, 2017
  • April 2017
    • Apr 28, 2017 Eat, Play, Love: A Review of Thailand's Cat Cafes Apr 28, 2017
    • Apr 19, 2017 Hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge: A Complete Guide For The Average-ly Fit Apr 19, 2017
    • Apr 6, 2017 Long-Term Travel & Relationships: The Peaks & Perils of 24/7 Togetherness Apr 6, 2017
  • March 2017
    • Mar 29, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Eating in China Edition Mar 29, 2017
    • Mar 11, 2017 Eight Things I Loved About Thailand (and three things I didn't) Mar 11, 2017
  • February 2017
    • Feb 20, 2017 Eat, Play, Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Part II Feb 20, 2017
    • Feb 10, 2017 What I Packed For A Six Month Trip to Asia Feb 10, 2017
  • January 2017
    • Jan 25, 2017 Actions & Words: A Week Volunteering In Spain Jan 25, 2017
    • Jan 13, 2017 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: What We Ate in Europe Jan 13, 2017
    • Jan 6, 2017 The Best and Worst of 2016: Our First Year of Full-Time Travel Jan 6, 2017
  • December 2016
    • Dec 31, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part II: Kitchen & Shopping Tips for Budget Travelers Dec 31, 2016
    • Dec 9, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part I: Recipe Ideas for Budget Travelers Dec 9, 2016
  • November 2016
    • Nov 30, 2016 A Tale of Two Cities: Lisbon & Porto Nov 30, 2016
    • Nov 23, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Thanksgiving Edition Nov 23, 2016
  • October 2016
    • Oct 29, 2016 Who Needs Sleep? A Dream Week in Bilbao Oct 29, 2016
    • Oct 23, 2016 Six Reasons to Visit Bulgaria Oct 23, 2016
    • Oct 15, 2016 Forget Dracula, Brasov is the Transylvania You Want to See Oct 15, 2016
    • Oct 9, 2016 How The Grinch Toured Bucharest Oct 9, 2016
    • Oct 5, 2016 Pet Sitting & Travel: Why Do It and How It Works Oct 5, 2016
  • September 2016
    • Sep 28, 2016 Transition to Travel: How To Prepare For A Mid-Career Break Sep 28, 2016
    • Sep 24, 2016 Travel Packing Update: Winners & Losers Sep 24, 2016
    • Sep 13, 2016 Wrong Turns Made Right: Belgrade, Serbia Sep 13, 2016
    • Sep 9, 2016 The Numbers Issue Sep 9, 2016
    • Sep 3, 2016 A Mystical Journey: Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina Sep 3, 2016
  • August 2016
    • Aug 19, 2016 A Holiday in Croatia Aug 19, 2016
    • Aug 8, 2016 Have a Nice Stay: Tips to Maximize Your Airbnb Experience Aug 8, 2016
    • Aug 4, 2016 Ode To Joyce: Trieste Aug 4, 2016
  • July 2016
    • Jul 26, 2016 Where is Slovenia and Why Should You Go There? Jul 26, 2016
    • Jul 15, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part III Jul 15, 2016
    • Jul 9, 2016 Four (Affordable) Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest Jul 9, 2016
  • June 2016
    • Jun 30, 2016 Top Ten RTW Trip Highlights (So Far) Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 30, 2016 The Art of Appreciation: Bratislava Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 22, 2016 A Vacation in Salzburg (or An Excuse to Post Photos of Sound of Music Sites & Mountains) Jun 22, 2016
    • Jun 17, 2016 Eat. Play. Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes Jun 17, 2016
    • Jun 11, 2016 Three Days in Riga Jun 11, 2016
    • Jun 7, 2016 Philosophical Musings & Progressive Estonia Jun 7, 2016
    • Jun 1, 2016 Last Night A Big Mac Saved My Life: St. Petersburg Jun 1, 2016
  • May 2016
    • May 27, 2016 Rough & Ready(?) Helsinki May 27, 2016
    • May 22, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part II May 22, 2016
    • May 19, 2016 Beyond Stereotypes: Stockholm May 19, 2016
    • May 17, 2016 Stockholm Surprise: A Visit to the US Embassy May 17, 2016
    • May 10, 2016 Oslo: My Spirit Animal? May 10, 2016
    • May 8, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To May 8, 2016
    • May 4, 2016 Split Personality: Copenhagen May 4, 2016
    • May 1, 2016 Baby, It's Cold Outside May 1, 2016
  • April 2016
    • Apr 27, 2016 Three Days in Cornwall Apr 27, 2016
    • Apr 23, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part III: Providence Apr 23, 2016
    • Apr 21, 2016 It Begins Apr 21, 2016
    • Apr 17, 2016 What I Packed for a Year of Round the World (RTW) Travel Part II: Toiletries, Electronics & Miscellaneous Apr 17, 2016
    • Apr 5, 2016 What I Packed for a Year of Round the World (RTW) Travel Apr 5, 2016
    • Apr 1, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part II: Patience Apr 1, 2016
  • March 2016
    • Mar 16, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part I: Preparation Mar 16, 2016
    • Mar 6, 2016 The 3 P’s of Planning Long Term Travel: Preparation, Patience & Providence Mar 6, 2016

HUMOUR BLOG

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Take a Bite
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A Kiss is Just a Kiss
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A Rose By Any Other Name
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I Wish it Could Be Christmas Everyday
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The Voice of King's Cross
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The Refrigerator List
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I Should Be So Lucky
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Accentuate the Positive
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Every week, we will post new stories, photos and videos from the road.  We would love to hear from you with any suggestions or recommendations as we move from country to country!

Paula LaBine, 2017