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Where in the world we've been...

Things I'm Getting Used To: Part III

July 15, 2016

We're officially out of the Schengen area, and our 90 day Balkan adventure started in relaxing fashion with a week of sun and surf in Split, Croatia.  Throw in a visit from Alison, our lovely friend from the UK, and we were in full-on vacation mode with beach lounging all day and wine sipping all night.

Leaving our hedonism behind, we crossed into our 16th country of the trip- scorching hot Bosnia and Herzegovina.  We toured Mostar, the cultural heart of Herzegovina and the capital, Sarajevo, a place this farm kid from Minnesota never imagined she would see.  Experiencing Ramadan in Bosnia, a predominantly Muslim country was an awe inspiring experience which I will share in a future post.

After this week of peaceful clam, we survived a heart pounding trip to Belgrade, Serbia across the mountains of Bosnia in a van driven by a young Serbian lead foot. After 6.5 hours of lurching and near misses, I removed my home made seat belt (I'm sure it's perfectly legal to tie it in a knot), and kissed the ground.  Belgrade was also brutally hot and for the first time we skipped going out a couple of days in favor of our air conditioned apartment.

The Hot Town: Summer in the City tour continues with our current stop:  Bucharest, Romania.  These former Eastern bloc countries do not look very pretty in the harsh, unrelenting sun, so we try and catch the sights during the early morning and dusk.  

I've continued to muse on the mundane, yet oddly interesting things I'm experiencing on this trip because... I'm just that kind of writer.  

Lucky you, dear reader.  

The Big Sleep

If you are chronically sleep deprived, I insist you stop reading immediately and take a nap.  I haven't been this well rested since I was a child, and even more thrilling, my sleep is also child-like:  deep, blissful and full of vivid dreams.  I have a history of sleep walking and talking, but nary a sign of it since the trip started.   Getting enough sleep has improved my overall well-being and, to Perry's delight, I have a much sunnier travel disposition, weathering annoyances far better than ever before.

No Toast for the Wicked

When people ask me what I miss about home, the answer 'toast' is not what they expect to hear.  I'm not a picky eater, but damnit people, I love a slice of toast with my eggs and coffee.  Since we left the UK, I've rarely had access to a toaster, forcing me to experiment with various oven and stovetop methods.  In southern Europe, sliced bread doesn't really exist so breakfast is whatever the local bread is.  Don't get me wrong, it's great bread, but it's not toast.  Guess I'm preparing for Asia where rice will replace bread altogether.

Cover Me

I love how everyone gets his/her own blanket here in Europe.  Even on a Queen size bed, there will be two separate comforters.  Talk about a relationship saver- no more arguments over hogging the blankets, no more unpleasant cold blast of air when your beloved flips over, no more scratchy toenails.  Your own blanket = Utopia.

Under the coverlet, there are two comforters

Under the coverlet, there are two comforters

Smoke Gets In Your Eyes

Sorry to paint such a broad stroke here, but Europeans LOVE to smoke everywhere, including indoors.  I've lived with no indoor smoking for so long, it's shocking that there are parts of the world that still allow it.  I'm getting used to it in restaurants, but ubiquitous smokers create problems for me in other ways.  I sat on a 2.5 hour bus ride to Sarajevo recently where the two older gents behind me talked loudly the entire way.  I'm not against good natured banter but MAYBE when you smoke 2 packs a day for 50 years and MAYBE when you last visited the dentist was when Tito was in power, you MIGHT want to speak less so my eyes don't water when your breath cloud surrounds me. 

(Un) Happy Feet

I can't stay on top of my foot game.  

It really bothered me at first, but I have come to accept that callused heels and hard skin fragments (ew!) from healing blisters is my new normal.  At first, it was just calluses which no one had to see since I was wearing boots and sneakers all the time.  Suddenly, it was summer and in preparation to break out my Birkenstock Gizeh sandals, I had a pedicure which removed said calluses.  I showed off my freshly coiffed toes the next day and that was the last time I had pretty feet.  Without the hard skin on my heels, I ended up with horrible blisters of by the end of that day.  Now, I have calluses on top of the healing blisters so everything is tough now, just BUTT UGLY.  I don't dare get a proper pedicure for fear of another round of blisters.  Not easily deterred, I tried my usual home remedy- attack feet with file in the shower, followed by heavy cream and socks, but NO DICE.   If you know me, you know I'm obsessed with having good feet, but sadly, they are going to have to serve function over fashion.

I'll just pretend my feet look this nice

I'll just pretend my feet look this nice

Walks Far Woman

I'm proud to say my feet are shot because of the daily mileage Perry and I are accumulating.  Despite summer temperatures, we are still clocking in around 8-10 miles per day and our total distance in three months of travel is... drum roll, please....649 miles.  This is further than the distance from the top of Minnesota to the bottom (400 miles) or the equivalent of walking from Minneapolis, Minnesota to Akron, Ohio.  Or from Minneapolis to Lincoln, Nebraska and back.  Take your pick.

And with that, I'm going to bed.  All this talk about physical exertion is making me tired so I'm going to get under my very own blanket, have a blissful night's sleep and dream that my feet will be transformed by the time I wake up.

 

Next time on Gobsmacked:  How to Spend Ten Days in Slovenia

 

 

Tags Travel, Long Term Travel, European Travel, Sleep, Toast, Covers, Smoke, Smokers, Walking
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Love is in the air.  Photo credit:  paulalabine.com

Love is in the air.  Photo credit:  paulalabine.com

Four (Affordable) Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest

July 9, 2016

Our first night in Budapest, Hungary was electric- literally. 

Shortly after arrival, we encountered a too-good-to-be-true atmosphere during an early evening stroll down the Danube .  Hand-holding couples, seductive cafes and alluring music were framed by a backdrop of Pest's art nouveau buildings, the green hills of Buda and the pedestrian-filled bridges that link the two sides.  Adding to the ambience, a storm was brewing in the distance and just as we returned to our apartment, a lush rain began to fall as we stood on our balcony facing venerable Central Market.   

Impossibly romantic, even this mush averse girl couldn't help but fall head-over-heels for Budapest.  If you are looking to rekindle the flame with your significant other, spend a long weekend or more in this magnificent city.

There are several ways to stoke the fires of passion at any time of day and without spending a fortune.  Because love should be free and why must the night have all the fun?

EARLY MORNING:  Sunrise, Sweat & Spa

Climb Gellert Hill to watch the sun rise before heading across the street to art nouveau jewel, Gellert Hotel & Thermal Baths for a soak.  With the early morning hour (they open at 6 am), you will have the place to yourself amidst five baths and two pools.  The 36 C (98 F) is the perfect temperature for snuggling.  Adventurous couples will love the 7 C (44 F) plunge bath and outdoor wave pool or for more leisurely grandeur, head for the more sedate indoor lap pool and join local Hungarians doing early morning exercises.

The biggest splurge on the list, no one should leave Budapest without experiencing its famous baths.  Save money by bringing your own towel and swim cap (or hotel shower cap).

Cost for Gellert Hill Climb:  FREE

Cost for Gellert Thermal Bath:  10,500 HUF ($37 USD) for 2 all-day passes

View from atop Gellert Hill

View from atop Gellert Hill

Indoor lap pool at the Gellert Spa & Thermal Baths

Indoor lap pool at the Gellert Spa & Thermal Baths

EARLY AFTERNOON:  Picnic & Poetry in the Park

For a Parisian-like experience without the crowds, throw some Hungarian rose, bread and cheese in your bag and stroll down Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's version of the Champs-Elysées, towards City Park (Varosliget).  Admire the Hungarian Kings at Hero's Square (Hosok Tere) before heading toward fantastical Vajdahunyad Castle and its boating lake.  After lunching under a majestic sycamore, rent a rowboat and impress your beloved with some Wordsworth or Byron.  Or just walk the grounds.

Alternatively, skip the Andrassy walk and take the World Heritage Site listed Yellow Line (opened 1896) to Hosok Tere.

Cost of Picnic in the Park:  FREE (just the cost of your lunch)

Cost of Boating:  1,200 HUF ($4.25 USD)

Heroes Square

Heroes Square

Varosliget Castle

Varosliget Castle

Rowing lake

Rowing lake

LATE AFTERNOON:  Rendezvous at the Ruins

Sitting in a ruined building may not seem like a romantic afternoon activity, but you haven't been to Szimpla Kert.  The star of Budapest's ruin pub scene, this hipster hangout is crowded with hard drinking twenty-somethings in the evening, but the open venue is perfect for beers and quiet couple time in the afternoon.

After checking out the tongue-in-cheek colorful art, grab the dark and moody bathtub room upstairs for some eye-gazing alone time or join other happy couples in the sun-dappled downstairs patio.

Cost of two pints of beer:  1,200 HUF ($4.25 USD)

The iconic bathtub

The iconic bathtub

Downstairs patio

Downstairs patio

Upstairs bar

Upstairs bar

EVENING:  Romance Overload

For the ultimate over-the-top gesture, impress your loved one with this series of activities.

Start with a walk along the Danube at dusk, heading towards the Chain Bridge.  The combination of pink skies and music filled cafes will set the scene nicely.  After crossing the bridge, take the Funicular to the top and soak in the sunset before walking to Mattias Church and Fisherman's Bastion to admire the gorgeous architecture and sweeping views.

Sufficiently swooned, backtrack to Buda Castle and meander around while taking in the scene.  There are many winding walkways on the river side to help you feel like adventurous explorers.  Down one level, stop for a drink at the chic Zona Budapest Wine Bar or Lanchid 19 Hotel. 

Cost of Funicular (2 tickets):  2,400 HUF ($8.50 USD)

Cost to walk around Buda Castle and Fisherman's Bastion:  FREE

Buda Castle at dusk

Buda Castle at dusk

At the top of the Funicular

At the top of the Funicular

Fisherman's Bastion

Fisherman's Bastion

Grab a drink under Buda Castle

Grab a drink under Buda Castle

While there are many excellent hotels, save money without sacrificing ambience by staying at an elegant apartment like this one on AirBnB.  It's perfectly positioned (and priced) in the midst of Central Market, Liberty Bridge (across from Gellert Hill) and famed pedestrian walk, Vaci.  

 

Next time on Gobsmacked: Things I'm Getting Used To:  Part III

Tags Budapest, Travel, Long Term Travel, European Travel, Romance, Hungary
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Glamping hut and hot tub at Camping Bled, Lake Bled, Slovenia

Glamping hut and hot tub at Camping Bled, Lake Bled, Slovenia

Top Ten RTW Trip Highlights (So Far)

June 30, 2016

What is it about the rain that gets my writing juices flowing?

It's 11 pm here at Lake Bled and even though I should be exhausted, I'm excited.  No, not THAT kind of excited.  You see, I haven't been to the lake or the woods or a cabin in a very long time.  So here I am, in a 'glamping' hut in the forest with the smell of singed campfire wafting over me as it's just begun to softly rain.  After a fabulous, but noisy week in Ljubljana, where we slept facing a busy street, it's so quiet here I may shed one silent tear of joy.

It is the biggest highlight of the trip thus far and the slowed down pace at the lake has given me time to think about some of the other 'best bits', so I've created a...drum roll... Top Ten list.

NUMBER TEN:  Helsinki Street Food

Helsinki isn't as pretty as her cousins Oslo and Stockholm, but what she lacks in conventional beauty, she makes up for with kick-ass street food.  Tents on the waterfront Market Square serve up hefty platters of salmon and reindeer at low (for Scandinavia) prices, but the highlight for me was the utterly delectable salmon soup which rivals Captain Newick's clam chowder for best soup of all time.  That's right, shots have been FIRED!

NUMBER NINE:  Gellert Spa & Thermal Baths in Budapest 

I'm jumping the gun here since I haven't done a write up on Budapest yet, but must include it.  The hours of relaxing in the five baths (of varying temperatures) and two pools after a steamy, early morning climb up Gellert Hill are among the most memorable of our three months thus far on the road.

Indoor lap pool at Gellert Spa and Thermal Baths

Indoor lap pool at Gellert Spa and Thermal Baths

NUMBER EIGHT:  Ljubljana, Slovenia

Another gun jumper- I'm a bit behind on my blogging, apologies!

Knowing nothing going in, Ljubljana really blew me away.  At the crossroads between Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia, this pretty-as-a-postcard Slovenian capital city combines large helpings of Adriatic and Alpine romance with a dash of Eastern European sensibility, creating a unique culture all its own.

We spent a week here and could have easily stayed longer.  While it doesn't have tons of traditional tourist activities, the quality of life is so fantastic, it was a pleasure just to slow down and live there.  From strolls through beautiful Old Town with the sounds of classical music spilling through open windows at the Academy of Music, to robust hikes in massive Tivoli Park where we encountered old women playing Bocce with pieces of concrete (they are ringers!), to long, three course gourmet lunches with locals at Hisa Pod Gradom (for the unbelievable price of 8 euro) and finally, having the best ice cream on earth at Vigo, I never wanted to leave!

Should I take up Slovenian instead of Spanish?

Should I take up Slovenian instead of Spanish?

NUMBER SEVEN:  Cat Cafes (Tallinn, Budapest, Bratislava, Ljubljana)

I wrote an article about my experiences at various cat cafes across Europe and collectively, they stand out as a memorable trip highlight.  Something about the relaxing atmosphere of cuddly kitties mixed with coffee or wine is a 'little bit of me.' (Shout out to Ms. Alison for that one!)

This is the biggest cat I've ever seen in person... and he high-fived me

This is the biggest cat I've ever seen in person... and he high-fived me

NUMBER SIX:  DFS Cruise Copenhagen-Oslo

We have had several overnight cruises during our travels thus far, but this one was really special.  It was our first of four and it set a very high bar that none of the other ships could touch.  From the nicer-than-you-would-expect budget cabins to the smorgasbord dinner to the spectacular scenery of Norway as we approached Oslo, this was a great moment in our year of travel.

It's so cold, my smile is frozen

It's so cold, my smile is frozen

NUMBER FIVE:  Lunch With New Friends at  Rataskaevu 16 in Tallinn, Estonia

Another story I've spun for you previously, this wonderfully delicious meal stands out not just for the food, but because we enjoyed it over great conversation with three local Estonians, who went out of their way to make us feel welcome.

If you go, be sure and leave your low carb diet at home so you can try the pumpkin soup and homemade bread that you will find impossible to put down.

Front room of Rataskaevu 16

Front room of Rataskaevu 16

NUMBER FOUR: Kirov Ballet, St. Petersburg

A bucket list item with an afterglow slightly marred by a paranoia-induced meltdown on the way back to our hotel, visiting the Mariinsky Theatre to see Spartacus performed by the world-famous Kirov Ballet was simply breathtaking.  St. Petersburg, Russia?  Not so much.

Oh look, there's a band

Oh look, there's a band

NUMBER THREE:  First Night in Budapest

Our first night in Budapest, Hungary was filled with electricity- literally!  We encountered a magical atmosphere while strolling down the Danube near sunset- hand holding couples, seductive cafes and alluring music were framed by the backdrop of the art nouveau buildings of Pest, the lush, green hills of Buda and the pedestrian-filled bridges that link the two sides over the Danube.  Adding to ambience, a storm was brewing in the distance and as we returned to our apartment, a gorgeous rain began to fall as we stood on our balcony facing the venerable Central Market.   

Impossibly romantic, even this non-romantic girl couldn't help but fall head-over-heels in love with Budapest.

Central Market before the rain

Central Market before the rain

NUMBER TWO:  Eagle's Nest Tour with the Clark's, Berchtesgaden, Germany

Simply spectacular, I wrote a lengthier description of this experience in a recent blog post.  In spite of Perry's mild acrophobia, he also considers this one a 'top ten' highlight, and it's way up there (pun intended) for me.  How so?  Take fun friends you haven't seen in a while, add a foreign location and a touch of adventure.  Et voila!

Can you spot the enormous wad of tissues in my 'mom' backpack?

Can you spot the enormous wad of tissues in my 'mom' backpack?

NUMBER ONE:  Glamping at Lake Bled, Slovenia

Slovenia is officially in my heart forever with two places I would set up shop and live permanently.  Lake Bled, for all the moaning we heard about how overcrowded and touristy it is, delivered a first class experience with relative peace and calm.  To start, we stayed in luxury for a pittance while 'glamping' at Camping Bled.  For 65 euro per night, you can experience camping, yet sleep in a real bed in a beyond-adorable alpine hut with a private bathroom that was one of the nicest we've had during our entire trip.  For real.  On top of that, they deliver a basket to your front door at 8 am, filled with enough meat, cheese, bread, fruit and yogurt to cover not only your breakfast, but lunch too.  Ok, so the thermos of coffee wasn't super hot, but for these budget travelers, the whole experience delivered luxury and value all in one.

Top Tip!  Stay on the less crowded west side of the lake and walk into town to burn off your wine while gazing upon the hard-to-believe views of the lake's turquoise waters and Bled Castle. 

Perry Argiropoulos, Glamper

Perry Argiropoulos, Glamper

Next Time on Gobsmacked:  Four Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest

 

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TRAVEL BLOG

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  • August 2018
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    • Aug 4, 2018 My Weirdest Travel Habits Aug 4, 2018
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    • Jul 20, 2018 What I Packed For The Last Six Months of Travel Jul 20, 2018
    • Jul 5, 2018 We Interrupt Our Travel To Bring You The Following Message Jul 5, 2018
  • April 2018
    • Apr 29, 2018 The Best Cat Cafes in Tokyo Apr 29, 2018
  • January 2018
    • Jan 20, 2018 The Five Best Cat Cafes in Osaka, Japan Jan 20, 2018
    • Jan 1, 2018 The Best & Worst of 2017: Our Second Year on the Road Jan 1, 2018
  • December 2017
    • Dec 21, 2017 A Week in Mexico City Dec 21, 2017
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    • Nov 23, 2017 Thanks or No Thanks? Our Worst Travel Mishaps in Europe Nov 23, 2017
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    • Oct 1, 2017 Global Travel on a Budget: Best Airbnb's For $50/Night (or less!) Oct 1, 2017
  • September 2017
    • Sep 24, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Europe, Round II Sep 24, 2017
    • Sep 22, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes In Seoul, South Korea Sep 22, 2017
    • Sep 14, 2017 A Girl's Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina Sep 14, 2017
    • Sep 3, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes From Around the World Sep 3, 2017
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    • Aug 21, 2017 Home Sweet Home Aug 21, 2017
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    • Jul 14, 2017 I Quit My Job to Travel: Sixteen Months Later Jul 14, 2017
    • Jul 2, 2017 Trekking Mongolia: Tips & Advice For the Best Tour Experience Jul 2, 2017
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    • Apr 19, 2017 Hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge: A Complete Guide For The Average-ly Fit Apr 19, 2017
    • Apr 6, 2017 Long-Term Travel & Relationships: The Peaks & Perils of 24/7 Togetherness Apr 6, 2017
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    • Mar 11, 2017 Eight Things I Loved About Thailand (and three things I didn't) Mar 11, 2017
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    • Feb 10, 2017 What I Packed For A Six Month Trip to Asia Feb 10, 2017
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    • Jan 13, 2017 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: What We Ate in Europe Jan 13, 2017
    • Jan 6, 2017 The Best and Worst of 2016: Our First Year of Full-Time Travel Jan 6, 2017
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    • Dec 31, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part II: Kitchen & Shopping Tips for Budget Travelers Dec 31, 2016
    • Dec 9, 2016 Eating Well on the Road Part I: Recipe Ideas for Budget Travelers Dec 9, 2016
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    • Nov 23, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Thanksgiving Edition Nov 23, 2016
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    • Oct 23, 2016 Six Reasons to Visit Bulgaria Oct 23, 2016
    • Oct 15, 2016 Forget Dracula, Brasov is the Transylvania You Want to See Oct 15, 2016
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    • Sep 24, 2016 Travel Packing Update: Winners & Losers Sep 24, 2016
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    • Jul 15, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part III Jul 15, 2016
    • Jul 9, 2016 Four (Affordable) Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest Jul 9, 2016
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    • Jun 30, 2016 The Art of Appreciation: Bratislava Jun 30, 2016
    • Jun 22, 2016 A Vacation in Salzburg (or An Excuse to Post Photos of Sound of Music Sites & Mountains) Jun 22, 2016
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    • Jun 1, 2016 Last Night A Big Mac Saved My Life: St. Petersburg Jun 1, 2016
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    • May 22, 2016 Things I'm Getting Used To: Part II May 22, 2016
    • May 19, 2016 Beyond Stereotypes: Stockholm May 19, 2016
    • May 17, 2016 Stockholm Surprise: A Visit to the US Embassy May 17, 2016
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Every week, we will post new stories, photos and videos from the road.  We would love to hear from you with any suggestions or recommendations as we move from country to country!

Paula LaBine, 2017