The Art of Appreciation: Bratislava

June 30, 2016

'Take everything that’s bright and beautiful in you and introduce it to the shadow side of yourself. Let your altruism meet your egotism, let your generosity meet your greed, let your joy meet your grief. Everyone has a shadow… But when you are able to say, “I am all of the above, my shadow as well as my light,” the shadow’s power is put in service of the good.'

-Parker Palmer, Naropa University Commencement Address (originally posted by Maria Popova on brainpickings.org)

I consider myself a work in progress and as such, there are a litany of internal and external 'projects' going on at any given time. Improve my writing. Eradicate impatience. Increase my Spanish fluency. Use less judgement. Flatten my stomach. Master existentialist philosophy. Stop watching Forensic Files at bedtime. You know, the usual.

I try to forgive myself any real or perceived shortcomings (and hope you do as well!), by appreciating the beautiful amidst what Parker Palmer refers to as the 'shadow side'.

I thought about this during our four days in Bratislava, Slovakia. I was looking for the beauty in the shadows, but unfortunately, it was a bit overshadowed for my taste. As such, Bratislava left us wanting just a little more.

Wanting more of what makes Europe, well, European.

While that sounds like judgment, I consider this view to be fairly objective. Not only am I getting used to visiting cities that aren't on anyone's Top Ten list, but I have become enamored with three in particular (Tallinn, Budapest and Ljubljana) that have varying levels of picturesque European charm, so I don't think I'm being an overly harsh judge or an 'I only do pretty' snob. Not every city can be Paris and some place has to be last on my list. *Sigh*

It's just disappointing since I tend to enjoy places that are off-the-beaten-path, quirky and with a little edge. I thought I would love Bratislava as it had been described in similar terms, but in reality, the path Bratislava occupies is strange and run-down. This baffles me because with Vienna, Budapest and Prague nearby, I assumed it would hold itself to a similar standard. But no, just a seemingly shabby resignation.

While that is not a glowing introduction, in the end, we did have a satisfactory stay in Bratislava.

So, here's the scene. We had just experienced three fairytale days in Salzburg, Austria. The train ride from Salzburg to Vienna was top notch with efficient and comfortable Austrian rail service. After a quick tram to the main Vienna station, we boarded the Slovakian train which was, apparently, a preview of things to come. Basic, worn and without air conditioning, it was a sticky journey, but luckily, only an hour. Fun Fact! Vienna and Bratislava are the two closest European capitals.

Upon arrival, we decided not to hang out at the depressing train station (first photo) while waiting to check into our AirBnB, but rather at a bar around the corner. The beer was cheap and tasty, which helped me reset my first impression button from negative to neutral.

It didn't last long. After check-in, we located the nearest grocery store online and began walking. Reviews had indicated we weren't in a really bad neighborhood- we were right next door to a four star hotel- but the blight we encountered made me wonder. Hordes of buildings with broken windows and graffiti. Overgrown grass on every lot. Yet, the sidewalks were filled with people: dog walkers, young couples pushing baby strollers and men in business suits.

The park across from the Presidential Palace was the most puzzling of all. Namestie Slobody was once a major square featuring the biggest fountain in Slovakia, the Fountain of Union. Designed to look like a linden flower, it was built in 1980, but was not maintained properly after the fall of Communism in 1989. Sadly, it stopped working in 2007 and has fallen into ruin- filled with graffiti, overgrown grass and broken cobbles. Despite this, the park was filled with people enjoying themselves. Kids running, dogs playing and friends sitting on a bench catching up- all seemingly unbothered by the conditions that surrounded them.

Not the best start.

The next day, things started to look up. We walked to Bratislava Castle where a food festival was in full swing, complete with alpine horn blowers. The Castle was a pleasant, but forgettable diversion, lacking the soul I usually feel when visiting old buildings. That is because it was destroyed during WWII and has since been rebuilt, so while it is a perfectly nice replica, the atmosphere borders on antiseptic, without much personality.

The nice breeze and views of the Danube made me pensive, and so we sat at the top while I downloaded a history lesson.

Known as Pressburg for over 900 years, the town was an important outpost of the Austria-Hungary empire and Habsburg monarchy. After WWI, despite a majority German and Hungarian population, it was usurped into Czechoslovakia where it was renamed Bratislava and the Slovak population rose rapidly. Under Nazi control in WWII, it was bombed heavily by the Allies and taken over by the Communist Party in 1948 which held it until Slovakian independence during the Velvet Revolution of 1989.

View of the Danube from the top of Bratislava Castle

Afterwards, we headed to the cat cafe nearby, which I reviewed in a previous blog post. Here, we encountered a lot of ripped up sidewalks- urban blight (perhaps artfully) intertwined with remodeled sections. Rome wasn't built in a day and neither is the new Bratislava.

Major tourist thoroughfare?  No problem. — Major tourist thoroughfare? No problem.

One thing they do well is quirky. Bratislava has many humorous landmarks and statues that make for great photo ops. The most famous of these is called 'Man at Work' or familiarly, Cumil. Another is the aptly named Paparazzi. Finally, there is a strange landmark with a large ear and pointing statue outside the Vietnamese embassy. Bizarre!

The following day, we focused on the small, yet pleasant Old Town. We had a nice meal on the patio at Prasna Basta.

A walk down the peaceful Danube capped off our final night in Bratislava.

In the end, I can appreciate Bratislava for what she is. Just like all of us, there may be a little (or a lot!) 'under construction' as we work toward who we optimally want to be. While not there yet, it doesn't mean the city is not worth a visit. A day trip from Vienna or one night while traveling between Vienna and Budapest should provide enough time to hit the highlights and if you like a little (or a lot) of shadow to balance out the light, make it a long weekend.

Although Bratislava proved underwhelming, little did I know a wonderful surprise was just around the corner: overwhelmingly romantic Budapest.

A Vacation in Salzburg (or An Excuse to Post Photos of Sound of Music Sites & Mountains)

June 22, 2016

I had a vacation in Salzburg recently.

'Wait,' you say. 'Aren't you already on vacation?'

I know, you are thinking of your own last vacation, where you traveled to an all-inclusive resort, romantic B&B or a luxurious city hotel. Generally, a vacation is a short term break. A holiday. An escape from regular life, or at least, your boss. But long-term travel isn't a short break and it's a rare vagabond who refers to her travels as luxurious. It's physically and fiscally impossible to maintain a steady diet of hotel rooms and unlimited tourist activities.

Mirabell Gardens (where many of the Do Re Mi scenes were filmed in the Sound of Music) with Salzburg Fortress in the background — Mirabell Gardens (where many of the *Do Re Mi* scenes were filmed in the Sound of Music) with Salzburg Fortress in the background

I'll give you a rundown of what a typical day looks like in a future post, but it's hardly a vacation in the traditional sense. Instead of hotels, we stay in budget AirBnB apartments, where shower shoes are necessary at times. Rather than eat out every meal, we cook much of our food, where sometimes frozen veggies + jar of curry = dinner. And instead of seeing every attraction, we usually pick the 'best' ones (i.e. FREE). Much more reality than escapism.

Arch from the Do Re Mi scene in Sound of Music — Arch from the *Do Re Mi* scene in Sound of Music

Don't pretend like you don't remember this from Do Re Mi in SoM (Sound of Music) — Don't pretend like you don't remember this from *Do Re Mi* in SoM (Sound of Music)

'OK, I get it,' you say. 'So why did you have a vacation?'

Glad you asked!

While in Tallinn, I received a message that good friends from Minnesota were going to be in Salzburg, Austria the following week, and would we happen to be nearby to meet up? Perry and I laughed at our good fortune. After locking in transport and accommodation for the first month (and missing out on a potential house sitting opportunity in Oslo), this was the first time we decided to keep things open after our next stop- three days in Riga.

After booking a cheap flight (thanks, Air Baltic) and a nice hotel using points (thanks, US Bank), we high fived. We were about to have a few days that looked like a typical vacation. Upscale hotel, check. Beautiful location, check. Fun tourist activities, check. But the real bonus was having two great friends to share the experience and jazz things up. We love each other and all, but sometimes you need a fresh injection of conversation.

Cute street- look up to see the date of building (ignore ugly construction)

When we checked into the Crowne Plaza, you would think I hadn't stayed in a decent hotel before. I inhaled the delicious new carpet smell like it was the first campfire of the season. I stroked the smooth sheets lovingly. With a tear in my eye, I gazed upon the immaculately clean shower where flip flops would NOT be necessary.

Horse bath- another site from Do Re Mi in Sound of Music — Horse bath- another site from *Do Re Mi* in Sound of Music

Never have I been so grateful for a hotel room. I began to feel ashamed of the numerous business trips and national sales meetings with similar accommodation, and when asked how my room was, would casually reply 'OK' or, even worse, 'I've had better.' Honestly, what a brat.

Dinner with the Clarks that night was one of those surreal experiences when you are sitting with people you know well, but since it's a strange environment, you keep thinking 'Is this crazy or what?' We swapped travel stories over platters of schnitzel and steins of beer before setting our plan for the next two days. Day One: Tour Salzburg. Day Two: Bus to Eagle's Nest, just over the border in Germany.

Was this also in the Sound of Music?  Yes, duh! — Was this also in the Sound of Music? Yes, duh!

Salzburg Cathedral (not where they filmed the wedding scenes)

Our day in Salzburg was a tour-de-force, courtesy of Jennie, who had been on a legit (guided) tour the day before. It felt great to follow someone else for a change, without thinking about where to turn AND having fun facts provided, free of charge! She showed us the Sound of Music sites (watch Do Re Mi here if you need a refresher), churches with secret entrances, and her favorite cute cafe before we stopped at the bottom of a hill with a path to the fortress on top.

You can choose the funicular (a tram on rails) to take you up to the top, or walk. We figured more walking = more beer earned, so we hoofed it. The rewarding views made a little extra sweat worth it.

After a nice lunch at the top, capped off by a Mozart coffee, (employs a dark chocolate liquor) we toured excavated Roman ruins and a marionette museum.

At the top of the fortress, we noticed a park nearby and headed towards it. This turned out to be good fortune as this was Monchsberg Park, a beautiful green space with quiet trails and outstanding views. If you need to escape the crowds in Old Town, pay a visit to this peaceful oasis and catch the church bells during twilight.

Another Sound of Music site- the house (center) where the veranda/river scenes were filmed

We worked our way back to town slowly, strolling through the cemetery at the bottom of the hill and once more through Mirabell Gardens to pat the head of the lucky dwarf and stand on the Do Re Mi steps. Yes, more Sound of Music sites- they are everywhere!

Another Sound of Music scene?  Yes, the one where they hide from the Nazi's in the abbey cemetery — Another Sound of Music scene? Yes, the one where they hide from the Nazi's in the abbey cemetery

Pat on the head for good luck.  SoM scene, yes. — Pat on the head for good luck. SoM scene, yes.

Scene of Do Re Mi finale on the steps — Scene of *Do Re Mi* finale on the steps

The next day we were up early to catch the 7:30 tour bus to Eagle's Nest, about 12 miles from Salzburg. Also known as Kehlsteinhaus, the structure sits on top of Obersalzburg above the town of Berchtesgaden, Germany. It was built in 1938 as a meeting place for Hitler and his high ranking officers.

The views on the ride up were jaw dropping and stomach turning as the bus chugged along the narrow switchbacks, inches from the edge of the cliff.

At the top, the scenery was even more majestic.

Eagle's Nest would never have happened without Jeremy's suggestion and we are lucky to have experienced it. During this 4.5 hour excursion, you get a comfortable coach ride to and from the site, entrance to the top and a stop for lunch (not included) in a cute village nearby. It was worth every penny of the 50 euro cost and was truly the highlight of our Salzburg trip. For an additional cost, you can add the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine Tour and make it a full days outing.

That evening over dinner, we did more catching up and reminisced about good times at Jeremy and Jennie's gym, Minnesota Top Team in Eagan, Minnesota.

Our vacation had come to an end. As we said our goodbyes, I felt a twinge of homesickness, but buoyed by a few days of good friends and easy living, was ready to get back on the road. Little did we know that Bratislava would serve up a harsh slap of reality, in contrast to the fairytale fantasy that was Salzburg.

Special thanks to Jeremy and Jennie Clark for making our time in Austria memorable and simply amazing!

If you are in the Twin Cities area, and are thinking about training in Jiu-Jitsu, Boxing, Cross-Fit, Boot Camp, Yoga or Personal Training, check out Minnesota Top Team!

Next time on Gobsmacked: Surviving Bratislava

Eat. Play. Love. A Review of European Cat Cafes

June 17, 2016

UPDATE! In August, 2017 I launched a new website devoted to cat cafe reviews in my quest to visit every single one in the world. So far, I've been to 92 out of approximately 255. Check it out at theneighborscat.com!

Disclaimer: the writer of this review is a crazy cat lady. Not fifty-feral-cats-overrunning-the-house crazy, but the kind who (accidentally) steals her neighbor's cat and thinks nothing of queueing up the Meow Mix ten-hour remix as background music. WARNING! If you click on the Meow Mix link, the song may be permanently lodged in your head and could lead to playing it at inappropriate moments such as work meetings and sexy time. I will not accept blame.

Perry is nuts about cats, too, as evidenced by this video he produced to cheer me when we had to leave the stolen cat and move back to the US.

Such is our love for felines, we even discussed buying a motorhome to travel around and deliver treats to cats all over the world. Sure, we may have had a bit too much to drink at the time, but the sentiment came from the heart.

So, with that intro, it is POSSIBLE that these reviews may be biased. If you jump on the first plane to Ljubljana and the cats ignore you, I cannot take any responsibility.

I'm sure you have heard of cat cafes by now. While Japan's cat cafes have been famous for some time now, the last few years have seen several open in major European cities. The premise is simple. Open a coffee shop. Add cats. Voila!

I didn't discover just how many European cat cafes are out there until recently and am gutted to learn that Copenhagen, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Vienna and Riga all have cat cafes that we missed. <sob> It was only when we hunkered down in Tallinn, Estonia for a week that we happened upon one. Now, searching for a cat cafe is the FIRST thing we do when investigating a potential city, even before we find a place to stay.

We've visited four cat cafes on our European travels thus far, and while there are sure to be more in our future, I wanted to offer up my first installment for your reading pleasure. In addition to recapping our experiences and providing photographs, I've also assigned an unscientific scoring system.

TALLINN, ESTONIA: Nurri Kassikohvik

Cat Cuteness: 9.5

Facility: 9

Food & Drink Quality: 8.5

Staff Friendliness: 10

OVERALL SCORE: 9

You never forget your first time. Interestingly, this cafe had particulars about it that the other three did not, and being our inaugural visit, thought these may be standard. They're not.

You had to be buzzed in through a locked, double-door system to prevent opportunistic dashes for daylight (it is located on a busy street)
A cover charge of 5 euro per person applied to the bill in addition to any food or drink orders

I'm only pointing this out in the name of full disclosure- it's not a deterrent. For Pete's sake, you are going to be in the presence of nine cuddly cats. SHELL OUT THE DOUGH AND BRING ON THE KITTIES!

I liked their facility. Nurri is clean and inviting with relaxing music. While the space is large, with plenty of room to settle in with a laptop or run around with a cat toy trying to entice a kitty, it had few cozy, cushioned spaces where cats might be tempted to cuddle up next to you. Just sayin'.

We were warmly greeted by a kind and lovely young woman who clearly had great affection for the cats. After we placed our order, I surveyed the clientele. On one end of the room, a grandmother sat stoically while her two young granddaughters ran with strings, squealing as cats chased them. On the other side, a 30-ish woman sipped a latte and smiled quietly while she tapped away on her laptop.

Later, a young mother with two boys entered and things got hectic with a bit too much running, yelling and flinging of the cat toys. The younger cats seemed to be fine with it, but the older cats scurried into hiding spots, much to my disappointment.

In addition to the typical jungle gym equipment and scratching posts, there is an oversized cat wheel. Cat wheel, you ask? Yes, like a hamster wheel, but for cats. Check out the video.

Finally, the kids left and the cats slowly and cautiously emerged. We sipped our drinks and waited. Then, we waited some more. Finally, Perry's patience was rewarded as a long haired cutie leapt into his lap. Ah, success!

We stayed for about an hour and can honestly say we had stupid grins plastered on our faces the entire time. It's physically impossible not to smile, so if you've got a severe case of grumpy pants, get thee to ye olde cat cafe forthwith.

We enjoyed hot chocolate, coffee and one piece of cake. The quality was good. With food and drink plus a 5 euro per person cover, our total bill was 17 euro, the most expensive of the cafes we visited.

BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA: Mackafe

Cat Cuteness: 9

Facility: 8

Food & Drink Quality: 9.5

Staff Friendliness: 9

OVERALL SCORE: 8.5

Mackafe is an adorable place. However, we visited during a particularly hot day and they did not have any air conditioning going. As such, the overheated cats languished on the tile floor trying to cool themselves and were in no mood for lap sitting or playing.

The young lady who greeted us was very pleasant. I ordered a peach lemonade and Perry, a hot chocolate as hot weather seemingly has no bearing on this man's capacity for the beverage. The presentation was first rate as our drinks were served on a decorative tray and the lemonade in a fancy refillable bottle.

We sipped and looked around. The space was clean and cozy with many soft pillows and couches for humans and cats to bond. They did not have much in the way of elaborate cat entertainment: i.e. jungle gyms and overhead catwalks, but had a few shelves on the walls for cats to escape people, if necessary.

Most of the patrons were young twenty-somethings (not like us), but just like us, wished to interact with the cats. All we could do was gently pet them sparingly (as not to contribute more heat), while cooing our sweet, incomprehensible nothings.

Our drinks amounted to just over 7 euro.

BUDAPEST, HUNGARY: CatCafe Budapest

Cat Cuteness: 10

Facility: 9.5

Food & Drink Quality: 8.5

Staff Friendliness: 9.5

OVERALL SCORE: 9.5

I'm still dreaming about the cats here. With their rock-star good looks, these were felines made to be worshipped. Dear Hungarians. How are your most gorgeous cats not in loving homes??

The star of the show is an enormous ginger Maine Coon, the biggest cat I've ever seen. With a king-of-the-jungle swagger and paws as big as a ten-year-old child's hand, you would swear he had some kind of mutated lion gene.

The space was extremely impressive. The back room has a dark cocktail bar ambience with cozy couches that can be reserved like a VIP lounge. The main downstairs room is filled with typical cafe tables and one corner couch paired with industrial-cool pallet coffee tables.

We were greeted by the waitress and began to order drinks when I spotted an item on the menu. Cat treats. I assumed these were for the cats, and not a cruelly named dessert, and I was right. It was the best 450 Forint ($1.50) I spent in Budapest. This is significant as most cafes have a strict 'treat time schedule', but at CatCafe Budapest, much like the city of Budapest, a laissez-faire attitude dominates.

The sound of the treat bag rustling caused a commotion. Five cats quickly surrounded me. I dispensed treats while playfully admonishing the big cats for boxing out the little ones. Then the waitress showed me a trick: Mr. Ginger Lion 'high fives' for treats. Normally, I wouldn't ask a sweet kitty to perform like a circus animal, but in this case, I was high on feline attention and threw my scruples out the window.

After all the treats were gone, most of the cats moved on, but one sweet white and gray boy stayed behind and gave us ALL THE FEELS.

Our drinks were good, but unfortunately the carrot cake was dry and not particularly tasty. I was so caught up in a haze of kitty love and treats, I didn't care.

We paid around 11 euro for a hot chocolate, coffee, one piece of carrot cake and a bag of cat treats.

LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA: Cat Caffe Ljubljana

Cat Cuteness: 9.5

Facility: 9.5

Food & Drink Quality: 9.5

Staff Friendliness: 10

OVERALL SCORE: 9.5

We are currently in Ljubljana and to my delight, discovered our AirBnB apartment is a mere two blocks away from this gem of a cafe. Kitty Karma?

There are many things to like about this place, but two things I particularly LOVE,

The cats are truly the celebrities here with their 'bios' posted in the drink menu and on the website so you can call them by name.
They serve alcohol here. Did someone say wine AND kitties? They may have to kick me out.

We have gone three times. Once for drinks and twice for coffee. Each time, we were greeted warmly, but the first encounter was especially memorable. It was near closing and since we were the only customers, the server engaged in lively conversation about the cats. The drinks were flowing. Then, she came over with an impish grin and asked if I wanted to feed them treats. DID I?!?

I was hooked. These cats were definitely the most personable out of the four cafes we visited. They made you feel special and that's not just the wine, er treats talking. I witnessed first hand how they worked the room as though they had social awareness and didn't want anyone to feel left out.

The cats of Cat Caffe Ljubljana are an interesting mix. There are several Devon Rex who, despite their dour expressions, are actually super playful and cuddly. Chili in particular, is a sweetheart who provided the following comical photo while sitting atop a 'Smiley World' notebook.

In addition to the cute and personable cats, friendly staff, and wide drink selection, the facility itself is quite lovely. The overhead cat walks and play equipment are modern and sophisticated so you always feel as though you are in a cafe, not a five-year-old's bedroom.

One vodka tonic and a glass of white wine. 7 euro. Feeding cats treats while drinking alcohol? Priceless.

After four cat cafes in four different cities, they just seem to be getting better. Or is it us? As we enter month three of our year-on-the-road, the promise of meeting new cats and fellow cat lovers has filled our travel with even more giddy anticipation.

I better wrap this up. You know... places to go...kitties to see.

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked: Why I Had A Vacation in Salzburg During My Year of Travel

UPDATE! In August, 2017 I launched a new website devoted to cat cafe reviews in my quest to visit every single one in the world. So far, I've been to 92 out of approximately 255. Check it out at theneighborscat.com!

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