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It's pronounced Lub-lee-ana

It's pronounced Lub-lee-ana

Where is Slovenia and Why Should You Go There?

July 26, 2016

I have two confessions.

One:  Until I read an article this week in the New York Times, I had no idea that Melania Trump aka Melania Knauss aka Melanja Knavs was from Slovenia and went to high school in Ljubljana.  However, I was not surprised that her husband Donald has made only one visit to the country, a day trip to Lake Bled, in which he boasted 'The fact that I even went there was very much appreciated'.

Two:  Until 2011, I had not heard of Ljubljana.  

The first time I saw the name, I was at Luton Airport waiting for my flight to Amsterdam.  As I stood in the holding area with the other cattle, er, EasyJet passengers, waiting for my gate to appear, another destination caught my eye.  

Ljubljana.

I wracked my brain trying to place it.  Gun to my head, I would have said it was in Poland.  So I looked it up and discovered it was the capital of Slovenia.  

Fast forward to 2016.  After spending over a week in Slovenia, I'm so enamored of the country, I might just make it my life's ambition to retire there.  It's a lot like Switzerland, super clean with a high standard of living and rugged natural beauty, but friendlier and cheaper.  At the crossroads of Slavic, Germanic and Latin cultures, you can also be assured of a variety of amazing cuisine.  And it's far less crowded.  

Don't be like Donald Trump.  A day in certainly not enough, especially if your wife is from there.  And while a week in this beautiful country may seem like a lot compared to rockstar destinations like France or Italy, Slovenia is like your favorite pair of jeans.  So comfortable, you just reach for them over and over.

Smart Start

It didn't start off a fairytale, but after a few 'first world problems', we got to our happy ending.  

We had just finished eight fun-filled days in Budapest and were looking forward to the train journey to Ljubljana after reading about it on The Man in Seat 61.  Yes, it would be a ten hour travel day, but with beautiful scenery, cozy environs and a well-stocked restaurant car, why not?

Let me just say that even if the train advertises a restaurant car, I implore you to pack a substantial lunch and plenty of water.  For whatever reason, the Hungarians felt that providing access to basic necessities during a ten hour travel day was not necessary at all.  

Luckily, I had packed a sandwich and one 16 oz bottle of water which I consumed at 11 am.  Still thirsty, I walked to the next car and discovered we were only two cars and an engine- no restaurant car, no snack bar.   At 1 pm, an attendant walked through and when I asked where I could get water, she squinted her eyes and hissed 'Ljubljana'.  When I said that was an awfully long time from now, she muttered something unintelligible (probably 'Go eff yourself') as she walked away.  We were due to arrive into Ljubljana around 5:30 pm and had departed Budapest at 7:30 am.  I thought about all those trips from Peterborough to London King's Cross where there was not only a bar car, but also someone pushing a snack cart, all for a 45 minute journey.  Naturally, without access to water, I felt extreme thirst and pouted in my seat while watching the two men in front of me share a six pack of beer.

She took pity on me and came back an hour later with news that the train would stop for 10 minutes in the next town and that I could get off for water.  There were no announcements to this effect.  When we finally arrived in Ljubljana, we walked into town with an American retiree who had just completed a two year Peace Corps assignment in Kyrgyzstan (pronounced Kurg-iss-tan).  He mentioned that he had not packed any food or water, but was so matter-of-fact about it, I can only assume he endured far greater hardships in Kyrgyzstan.

Day One & Two:  Old Town Ljubljana

Our travel day quickly forgotten, we spent the first couple of days in Slovenia immersing ourselves in beautiful Old Town Ljubljana.  Easy-going, like the city, the Ljubljanica River gently winds through the Old Town offering relaxing views for patrons sitting alongside the many restaurants, pubs and cafes.  Our apartment was on the far edge of the pedestrian zone so we had easy access to the riverfront and returned to it again and again.  

Canalside

Canalside

What I love most about Old Town is that it has three distinct personalties to suit whatever mood you are in.  

  1. The Fortress side and Mestni street have that Medieval feel with cobbles and narrow alleys.  The restaurants are more upscale with a quiet, romantic atmosphere to them.  
  2. Canalside, the bars and restaurants beckon you with an Aperol spritz and great people-watching.  It's fun and lively, yet classy.
  3. West of the river, the University dominates the scene with youthful exuberance.  The busy streets are full of teens in cheap and cheerful food shops pumping out techno beats while in contrast, students in the nearby music academy fill the air with the sounds of stringed and brass instruments.
Preparing for a music festival while the Fortress looms above

Preparing for a music festival while the Fortress looms above

On the second day, we made the climb up to the fortress where we enjoyed stunning views and a short film on the history of the site and city of Ljubljana.  Afterwards, we poked around a strange puppet museum where we learned that Slovenians have a strong and sentimental love for this type of entertainment.  Quirky, but I like it. 

Afterwards, we ate what would be the first of three lunches at Hisa Pod Gradom (review at the end), then spent the rest of the day cafe hopping around Old Town.

Day Three:  Tivoli Park & Vigo Ice Cream

After a lazy morning, we headed to the far edge of Old Town and plugged in our headphones for some long overdue heart pumping exercise in Tivoli Park.  

This large green space holds Tivoli Mansion (currently houses a graphic arts center) but the real star is the incredible trail system, which takes you higher and higher above the city.  Near the top are a few cafes and if you are lucky, you might catch a game of Slovenian Bocce where rocks are used instead of balls.  Watch out for the little old lady in a gray kerchief- she's a ringer.

Back in the Old Town, the best reward for a sweaty, three-hour excursion is a scoop (or two!) of ice cream from Vigo (more at the end).  I don't care what Trip Advisor says, Cacao's ice cream is NOTHING compared to Vigo.  Trust me, GO TO VIGO.

Day Four, Five, Six:  Lake Bled

Just an hour north of the city is the world famous town of Bled, home of Lake Bled and Bled Castle.

Spectacular.  Magnificent.  Stunning.  Words will never do this area of outstanding beauty justice so I must rely on my photos which give you an idea, but still can't compare to seeing it with your own eyes.  Combined with our glamping experience, Lake Bled is the number one highlight of our trip thus far.

We took the bus to Bled and walked from the station, in the center of town, to Camping Bled on the opposite side of the lake.  The lake has a walking path that encircles it and since it's only 6 km, we walked it every day.  With views like this, you will find excuses to be near it.

The whole area is an active person's dream come true with several companies offering white water rafting, hiking and mountain biking excursions. For you party animals, there are plenty of bars and discos on the south side.   In addition to walking the lake, our repertoire included:

Rowboat to Bled Island Church

Perry took on the challenge of rowing the short distance to the island (which is actually not very easy!), but if you are feeling less adventurous, there are plenty of strapping young lads on gondolas that can take you.  The island is very small and takes about 5 minutes to walk around it, but you can also climb to the top of the church and ring the bell for a nominal fee.

Alpine Slide

Indulge your inner child with an exciting toboggan ride down the hill.  We had our biggest laughs of the day with this fun and inexpensive (14 euro for 3 rides) excursion with the added bonus of great views on the ski lift.

Vintgar Gorge

We got a great workout walking from Bled to Vintgar Gorge, but you can catch a ride for about 5 euro.  It's a popular place and the footpath was a bit crowded at times, but worth dodging death-defying sorority girls trying to get that perfect Instagram!  We got a little waylaid trying to find our way back to Bled and ran into a globe-trotting Argentinian couple for an entertaining hike swapping travel stories, proving that getting lost makes for a memorable day.

But never fear, if you are into relaxation, we did plenty of that too, eating big slices of the local specialty cream cake, chilling with a beer outside our glamping hut and taking romantic strolls at dusk. 

If you are an outdoor junkie and have more time, take an extra day and also visit nearby Lake Bohinj.  From rock climbing to kayaking to hiking in the Julian Alps, this area is an adventure seeker's paradise.

For anyone interested, I have posted a photo gallery with more amazing Lake Bled photos here.

Day Seven:  Bike the City & Cat Cafe

Back in Ljubljana, we decided to get outside of the Old Town (and work off that Lake Bled Cream Cake) with a very long walk, but for others a Bike the City tour is just the thing.  Three hours long, including a beer at Tivoli park at the end, I will certainly do this when I go back.

We are walking fools, however, and walked the trail, snapping photos along the way.  We followed this up with a drink at our favorite cat cafe Cat Caffe Ljubljana, where they serve up not only kitties and coffee, but cocktails.

Dragon Bridge

Dragon Bridge

Merri and Chilli, well, chillin'

Merri and Chilli, well, chillin'

Day Eight:  Go Underground

Take advantage of the proximity and make an excursion to Postojna or Skocjan Caves- less than an hour from Ljubljana down the brand new E61 freeway.  Postojna is one of Slovenia's most popular tourist attractions as the train system makes it easy for young and old alike to enjoy it.  Skocjan is a UNECSO world heritage site and takes a bit more exertion.  It's possible to tour both caves in one day.

This was our plan, but since we ended up touring Grotta Gigante cave in Trieste with our Airbnb host, we skipped it in favor of more time in Ljubljana.  That's how much we love it!  If you go there, let us know.  If it's anything like Grotta Gigante, you will be glad you did.

Day Ten:  Head to Zagreb

Sadly, it was time to move on, but we were thrilled to discover a place in this world that ranks amongst our favorites.  Luckily, the 2.5 hour train ride to Zagreb, Croatia was only 9 euro per person and since bargain travel makes me really happy, I was able to leave with a smile on my face.

PS.  Food & Lodging

We stayed at this lovely AirBnB apartment for most of the week, but lodged at a 'real' B & B the night before we left for Zagreb.  I want to give a shout out to Atticus B&B for providing one of the nicest budget priced experiences we have had on the road.  Exceptionally clean and modern with cute and comfortable rooms AND a killer breakfast for 65 euro per night is a total bargain.  

We had many meals in Ljubljana, but there are two places that stand out:  Hisa Pod Gradom for lunch and Vigo for Ice Cream.

Hisa Pod Gradom is located at the foot of Ljubljana Fortress just east of the Funicular on Streliska Ulica.  It's popular with locals for good reason- their 3 course lunch for 7.90 euro is a ridiculous value!  Throw in a glass of Slovenian Rose for 2.70 euro and you have a gourmet lunch worth writing home about- without the sticker shock!  With daily specials in addition to a substantial menu, I highly recommend this place whether you are on a budget or not.

I mentioned this earlier, but it's worth mentioning again.  Vigo is in the heart of Old Town (Fortress side) and is the most impressive ice cream I've had on the road.  It takes a lot for ice cream to 'wow' me and for only 1.50 euro per scoop, you get an otherworldly gourmet taste experience for a super small price.  How often can you say that?  Forget Cacao, I'm Team Vigo all the way.

 

 

 

 

Tags Slovenia, Ljubljana, Lake Bled, Long Term Travel, Travel, European Travel
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Where in the world we've been...

Where in the world we've been...

Things I'm Getting Used To: Part III

July 15, 2016

We're officially out of the Schengen area, and our 90 day Balkan adventure started in relaxing fashion with a week of sun and surf in Split, Croatia.  Throw in a visit from Alison, our lovely friend from the UK, and we were in full-on vacation mode with beach lounging all day and wine sipping all night.

Leaving our hedonism behind, we crossed into our 16th country of the trip- scorching hot Bosnia and Herzegovina.  We toured Mostar, the cultural heart of Herzegovina and the capital, Sarajevo, a place this farm kid from Minnesota never imagined she would see.  Experiencing Ramadan in Bosnia, a predominantly Muslim country was an awe inspiring experience which I will share in a future post.

After this week of peaceful clam, we survived a heart pounding trip to Belgrade, Serbia across the mountains of Bosnia in a van driven by a young Serbian lead foot. After 6.5 hours of lurching and near misses, I removed my home made seat belt (I'm sure it's perfectly legal to tie it in a knot), and kissed the ground.  Belgrade was also brutally hot and for the first time we skipped going out a couple of days in favor of our air conditioned apartment.

The Hot Town: Summer in the City tour continues with our current stop:  Bucharest, Romania.  These former Eastern bloc countries do not look very pretty in the harsh, unrelenting sun, so we try and catch the sights during the early morning and dusk.  

I've continued to muse on the mundane, yet oddly interesting things I'm experiencing on this trip because... I'm just that kind of writer.  

Lucky you, dear reader.  

The Big Sleep

If you are chronically sleep deprived, I insist you stop reading immediately and take a nap.  I haven't been this well rested since I was a child, and even more thrilling, my sleep is also child-like:  deep, blissful and full of vivid dreams.  I have a history of sleep walking and talking, but nary a sign of it since the trip started.   Getting enough sleep has improved my overall well-being and, to Perry's delight, I have a much sunnier travel disposition, weathering annoyances far better than ever before.

No Toast for the Wicked

When people ask me what I miss about home, the answer 'toast' is not what they expect to hear.  I'm not a picky eater, but damnit people, I love a slice of toast with my eggs and coffee.  Since we left the UK, I've rarely had access to a toaster, forcing me to experiment with various oven and stovetop methods.  In southern Europe, sliced bread doesn't really exist so breakfast is whatever the local bread is.  Don't get me wrong, it's great bread, but it's not toast.  Guess I'm preparing for Asia where rice will replace bread altogether.

Cover Me

I love how everyone gets his/her own blanket here in Europe.  Even on a Queen size bed, there will be two separate comforters.  Talk about a relationship saver- no more arguments over hogging the blankets, no more unpleasant cold blast of air when your beloved flips over, no more scratchy toenails.  Your own blanket = Utopia.

Under the coverlet, there are two comforters

Under the coverlet, there are two comforters

Smoke Gets In Your Eyes

Sorry to paint such a broad stroke here, but Europeans LOVE to smoke everywhere, including indoors.  I've lived with no indoor smoking for so long, it's shocking that there are parts of the world that still allow it.  I'm getting used to it in restaurants, but ubiquitous smokers create problems for me in other ways.  I sat on a 2.5 hour bus ride to Sarajevo recently where the two older gents behind me talked loudly the entire way.  I'm not against good natured banter but MAYBE when you smoke 2 packs a day for 50 years and MAYBE when you last visited the dentist was when Tito was in power, you MIGHT want to speak less so my eyes don't water when your breath cloud surrounds me. 

(Un) Happy Feet

I can't stay on top of my foot game.  

It really bothered me at first, but I have come to accept that callused heels and hard skin fragments (ew!) from healing blisters is my new normal.  At first, it was just calluses which no one had to see since I was wearing boots and sneakers all the time.  Suddenly, it was summer and in preparation to break out my Birkenstock Gizeh sandals, I had a pedicure which removed said calluses.  I showed off my freshly coiffed toes the next day and that was the last time I had pretty feet.  Without the hard skin on my heels, I ended up with horrible blisters of by the end of that day.  Now, I have calluses on top of the healing blisters so everything is tough now, just BUTT UGLY.  I don't dare get a proper pedicure for fear of another round of blisters.  Not easily deterred, I tried my usual home remedy- attack feet with file in the shower, followed by heavy cream and socks, but NO DICE.   If you know me, you know I'm obsessed with having good feet, but sadly, they are going to have to serve function over fashion.

I'll just pretend my feet look this nice

I'll just pretend my feet look this nice

Walks Far Woman

I'm proud to say my feet are shot because of the daily mileage Perry and I are accumulating.  Despite summer temperatures, we are still clocking in around 8-10 miles per day and our total distance in three months of travel is... drum roll, please....649 miles.  This is further than the distance from the top of Minnesota to the bottom (400 miles) or the equivalent of walking from Minneapolis, Minnesota to Akron, Ohio.  Or from Minneapolis to Lincoln, Nebraska and back.  Take your pick.

And with that, I'm going to bed.  All this talk about physical exertion is making me tired so I'm going to get under my very own blanket, have a blissful night's sleep and dream that my feet will be transformed by the time I wake up.

 

Next time on Gobsmacked:  How to Spend Ten Days in Slovenia

 

 

Tags Travel, Long Term Travel, European Travel, Sleep, Toast, Covers, Smoke, Smokers, Walking
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Love is in the air.  Photo credit:  paulalabine.com

Love is in the air.  Photo credit:  paulalabine.com

Four (Affordable) Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest

July 9, 2016

Our first night in Budapest, Hungary was electric- literally. 

Shortly after arrival, we encountered a too-good-to-be-true atmosphere during an early evening stroll down the Danube .  Hand-holding couples, seductive cafes and alluring music were framed by a backdrop of Pest's art nouveau buildings, the green hills of Buda and the pedestrian-filled bridges that link the two sides.  Adding to the ambience, a storm was brewing in the distance and just as we returned to our apartment, a lush rain began to fall as we stood on our balcony facing venerable Central Market.   

Impossibly romantic, even this mush averse girl couldn't help but fall head-over-heels for Budapest.  If you are looking to rekindle the flame with your significant other, spend a long weekend or more in this magnificent city.

There are several ways to stoke the fires of passion at any time of day and without spending a fortune.  Because love should be free and why must the night have all the fun?

EARLY MORNING:  Sunrise, Sweat & Spa

Climb Gellert Hill to watch the sun rise before heading across the street to art nouveau jewel, Gellert Hotel & Thermal Baths for a soak.  With the early morning hour (they open at 6 am), you will have the place to yourself amidst five baths and two pools.  The 36 C (98 F) is the perfect temperature for snuggling.  Adventurous couples will love the 7 C (44 F) plunge bath and outdoor wave pool or for more leisurely grandeur, head for the more sedate indoor lap pool and join local Hungarians doing early morning exercises.

The biggest splurge on the list, no one should leave Budapest without experiencing its famous baths.  Save money by bringing your own towel and swim cap (or hotel shower cap).

Cost for Gellert Hill Climb:  FREE

Cost for Gellert Thermal Bath:  10,500 HUF ($37 USD) for 2 all-day passes

View from atop Gellert Hill

View from atop Gellert Hill

Indoor lap pool at the Gellert Spa & Thermal Baths

Indoor lap pool at the Gellert Spa & Thermal Baths

EARLY AFTERNOON:  Picnic & Poetry in the Park

For a Parisian-like experience without the crowds, throw some Hungarian rose, bread and cheese in your bag and stroll down Andrassy Avenue, Budapest's version of the Champs-Elysées, towards City Park (Varosliget).  Admire the Hungarian Kings at Hero's Square (Hosok Tere) before heading toward fantastical Vajdahunyad Castle and its boating lake.  After lunching under a majestic sycamore, rent a rowboat and impress your beloved with some Wordsworth or Byron.  Or just walk the grounds.

Alternatively, skip the Andrassy walk and take the World Heritage Site listed Yellow Line (opened 1896) to Hosok Tere.

Cost of Picnic in the Park:  FREE (just the cost of your lunch)

Cost of Boating:  1,200 HUF ($4.25 USD)

Heroes Square

Heroes Square

Varosliget Castle

Varosliget Castle

Rowing lake

Rowing lake

LATE AFTERNOON:  Rendezvous at the Ruins

Sitting in a ruined building may not seem like a romantic afternoon activity, but you haven't been to Szimpla Kert.  The star of Budapest's ruin pub scene, this hipster hangout is crowded with hard drinking twenty-somethings in the evening, but the open venue is perfect for beers and quiet couple time in the afternoon.

After checking out the tongue-in-cheek colorful art, grab the dark and moody bathtub room upstairs for some eye-gazing alone time or join other happy couples in the sun-dappled downstairs patio.

Cost of two pints of beer:  1,200 HUF ($4.25 USD)

The iconic bathtub

The iconic bathtub

Downstairs patio

Downstairs patio

Upstairs bar

Upstairs bar

EVENING:  Romance Overload

For the ultimate over-the-top gesture, impress your loved one with this series of activities.

Start with a walk along the Danube at dusk, heading towards the Chain Bridge.  The combination of pink skies and music filled cafes will set the scene nicely.  After crossing the bridge, take the Funicular to the top and soak in the sunset before walking to Mattias Church and Fisherman's Bastion to admire the gorgeous architecture and sweeping views.

Sufficiently swooned, backtrack to Buda Castle and meander around while taking in the scene.  There are many winding walkways on the river side to help you feel like adventurous explorers.  Down one level, stop for a drink at the chic Zona Budapest Wine Bar or Lanchid 19 Hotel. 

Cost of Funicular (2 tickets):  2,400 HUF ($8.50 USD)

Cost to walk around Buda Castle and Fisherman's Bastion:  FREE

Buda Castle at dusk

Buda Castle at dusk

At the top of the Funicular

At the top of the Funicular

Fisherman's Bastion

Fisherman's Bastion

Grab a drink under Buda Castle

Grab a drink under Buda Castle

While there are many excellent hotels, save money without sacrificing ambience by staying at an elegant apartment like this one on AirBnB.  It's perfectly positioned (and priced) in the midst of Central Market, Liberty Bridge (across from Gellert Hill) and famed pedestrian walk, Vaci.  

 

Next time on Gobsmacked: Things I'm Getting Used To:  Part III

Tags Budapest, Travel, Long Term Travel, European Travel, Romance, Hungary
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  • March 2016
    • Mar 16, 2016 Planning Long Term Travel Part I: Preparation Mar 16, 2016
    • Mar 6, 2016 The 3 P’s of Planning Long Term Travel: Preparation, Patience & Providence Mar 6, 2016

HUMOUR BLOG

Featured
Nov 29, 2015
Take a Bite
Nov 29, 2015
Nov 29, 2015
Sep 27, 2015
A Kiss is Just a Kiss
Sep 27, 2015
Sep 27, 2015
Sep 6, 2015
A Rose By Any Other Name
Sep 6, 2015
Sep 6, 2015
Aug 3, 2015
TV Star
Aug 3, 2015
Aug 3, 2015
Aug 2, 2015
It's All Uphill From Here
Aug 2, 2015
Aug 2, 2015
Jul 27, 2015
I Wish it Could Be Christmas Everyday
Jul 27, 2015
Jul 27, 2015
Jul 26, 2015
The Voice of King's Cross
Jul 26, 2015
Jul 26, 2015
Jul 25, 2015
The Refrigerator List
Jul 25, 2015
Jul 25, 2015
Jun 28, 2015
I Should Be So Lucky
Jun 28, 2015
Jun 28, 2015
Jun 15, 2015
Accentuate the Positive
Jun 15, 2015
Jun 15, 2015

Follow Along!

 


Every week, we will post new stories, photos and videos from the road.  We would love to hear from you with any suggestions or recommendations as we move from country to country!

Paula LaBine, 2017