Top Ten RTW Trip Highlights (So Far)

What is it about the rain that gets my writing juices flowing?

It's 11 pm here at Lake Bled and even though I should be exhausted, I'm excited.  No, not THAT kind of excited.  You see, I haven't been to the lake or the woods or a cabin in a very long time.  So here I am, in a 'glamping' hut in the forest with the smell of singed campfire wafting over me as it's just begun to softly rain.  After a fabulous, but noisy week in Ljubljana, where we slept facing a busy street, it's so quiet here I may shed one silent tear of joy.

It is the biggest highlight of the trip thus far and the slowed down pace at the lake has given me time to think about some of the other 'best bits', so I've created a...drum roll... Top Ten list.

NUMBER TEN:  Helsinki Street Food

Helsinki isn't as pretty as her cousins Oslo and Stockholm, but what she lacks in conventional beauty, she makes up for with kick-ass street food.  Tents on the waterfront Market Square serve up hefty platters of salmon and reindeer at low (for Scandinavia) prices, but the highlight for me was the utterly delectable salmon soup which rivals Captain Newick's clam chowder for best soup of all time.  That's right, shots have been FIRED!

NUMBER NINE:  Gellert Spa & Thermal Baths in Budapest 

I'm jumping the gun here since I haven't done a write up on Budapest yet, but must include it.  The hours of relaxing in the five baths (of varying temperatures) and two pools after a steamy, early morning climb up Gellert Hill are among the most memorable of our three months thus far on the road.

Indoor lap pool at Gellert Spa and Thermal Baths

NUMBER EIGHT:  Ljubljana, Slovenia

Another gun jumper- I'm a bit behind on my blogging, apologies!

Knowing nothing going in, Ljubljana really blew me away.  At the crossroads between Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia, this pretty-as-a-postcard Slovenian capital city combines large helpings of Adriatic and Alpine romance with a dash of Eastern European sensibility, creating a unique culture all its own.

We spent a week here and could have easily stayed longer.  While it doesn't have tons of traditional tourist activities, the quality of life is so fantastic, it was a pleasure just to slow down and live there.  From strolls through beautiful Old Town with the sounds of classical music spilling through open windows at the Academy of Music, to robust hikes in massive Tivoli Park where we encountered old women playing Bocce with pieces of concrete (they are ringers!), to long, three course gourmet lunches with locals at Hisa Pod Gradom (for the unbelievable price of 8 euro) and finally, having the best ice cream on earth at Vigo, I never wanted to leave!

Should I take up Slovenian instead of Spanish?

NUMBER SEVEN:  Cat Cafes (Tallinn, Budapest, Bratislava, Ljubljana)

I wrote an article about my experiences at various cat cafes across Europe and collectively, they stand out as a memorable trip highlight.  Something about the relaxing atmosphere of cuddly kitties mixed with coffee or wine is a 'little bit of me.' (Shout out to Ms. Alison for that one!)

This is the biggest cat I've ever seen in person... and he high-fived me

NUMBER SIX:  DFS Cruise Copenhagen-Oslo

We have had several overnight cruises during our travels thus far, but this one was really special.  It was our first of four and it set a very high bar that none of the other ships could touch.  From the nicer-than-you-would-expect budget cabins to the smorgasbord dinner to the spectacular scenery of Norway as we approached Oslo, this was a great moment in our year of travel.

It's so cold, my smile is frozen

NUMBER FIVE:  Lunch With New Friends at  Rataskaevu 16 in Tallinn, Estonia

Another story I've spun for you previously, this wonderfully delicious meal stands out not just for the food, but because we enjoyed it over great conversation with three local Estonians, who went out of their way to make us feel welcome.

If you go, be sure and leave your low carb diet at home so you can try the pumpkin soup and homemade bread that you will find impossible to put down.

Front room of Rataskaevu 16

NUMBER FOUR: Kirov Ballet, St. Petersburg

A bucket list item with an afterglow slightly marred by a paranoia-induced meltdown on the way back to our hotel, visiting the Mariinsky Theatre to see Spartacus performed by the world-famous Kirov Ballet was simply breathtaking.  St. Petersburg, Russia?  Not so much.

Oh look, there's a band

NUMBER THREE:  First Night in Budapest

Our first night in Budapest, Hungary was filled with electricity- literally!  We encountered a magical atmosphere while strolling down the Danube near sunset- hand holding couples, seductive cafes and alluring music were framed by the backdrop of the art nouveau buildings of Pest, the lush, green hills of Buda and the pedestrian-filled bridges that link the two sides over the Danube.  Adding to ambience, a storm was brewing in the distance and as we returned to our apartment, a gorgeous rain began to fall as we stood on our balcony facing the venerable Central Market.   

Impossibly romantic, even this non-romantic girl couldn't help but fall head-over-heels in love with Budapest.

Central Market before the rain

NUMBER TWO:  Eagle's Nest Tour with the Clark's, Berchtesgaden, Germany

Simply spectacular, I wrote a lengthier description of this experience in a recent blog post.  In spite of Perry's mild acrophobia, he also considers this one a 'top ten' highlight, and it's way up there (pun intended) for me.  How so?  Take fun friends you haven't seen in a while, add a foreign location and a touch of adventure.  Et voila!

Can you spot the enormous wad of tissues in my 'mom' backpack?

NUMBER ONE:  Glamping at Lake Bled, Slovenia

Slovenia is officially in my heart forever with two places I would set up shop and live permanently.  Lake Bled, for all the moaning we heard about how overcrowded and touristy it is, delivered a first class experience with relative peace and calm.  To start, we stayed in luxury for a pittance while 'glamping' at Camping Bled.  For 65 euro per night, you can experience camping, yet sleep in a real bed in a beyond-adorable alpine hut with a private bathroom that was one of the nicest we've had during our entire trip.  For real.  On top of that, they deliver a basket to your front door at 8 am, filled with enough meat, cheese, bread, fruit and yogurt to cover not only your breakfast, but lunch too.  Ok, so the thermos of coffee wasn't super hot, but for these budget travelers, the whole experience delivered luxury and value all in one.

Top Tip!  Stay on the less crowded west side of the lake and walk into town to burn off your wine while gazing upon the hard-to-believe views of the lake's turquoise waters and Bled Castle. 

Perry Argiropoulos, Glamper

Next Time on Gobsmacked:  Four Ways to Experience Romantic Budapest

The Art of Appreciation: Bratislava

'Take everything that’s bright and beautiful in you and introduce it to the shadow side of yourself. Let your altruism meet your egotism, let your generosity meet your greed, let your joy meet your grief. Everyone has a shadow… But when you are able to say, “I am all of the above, my shadow as well as my light,” the shadow’s power is put in service of the good.'

-Parker Palmer, Naropa University Commencement Address (originally posted by Maria Popova on brainpickings.org)

I consider myself a work in progress and as such, there are a litany of internal and external 'projects' going on at any given time.  Improve my writing.  Eradicate impatience.  Increase my Spanish fluency.  Use less judgement.  Flatten my stomach.  Master existentialist philosophy.  Stop watching Forensic Files at bedtime.  You know, the usual.

I try to forgive myself any real or perceived shortcomings (and hope you do as well!), by appreciating the beautiful amidst what Parker Palmer refers to as the 'shadow side'.  

I thought about this during our four days in Bratislava, Slovakia.  I was looking for the beauty in the shadows, but unfortunately, it was a bit overshadowed for my taste.  As such, Bratislava left us wanting just a little more.  

Wanting more of what makes Europe, well, European.

While that sounds like judgment, I consider this view to be fairly objective.  Not only am I getting used to visiting cities that aren't on anyone's Top Ten list, but I have become enamored with three in particular (Tallinn, Budapest and Ljubljana) that have varying levels of picturesque European charm, so I don't think I'm being an overly harsh judge or an 'I only do pretty' snob.  Not every city can be Paris and some place has to be last on my list.  *Sigh*

It's just disappointing since I tend to enjoy places that are off-the-beaten-path, quirky and with a little edge.  I thought I would love Bratislava as it had been described in similar terms, but in reality, the path Bratislava occupies is strange and run-down.  This baffles me because with Vienna, Budapest and Prague nearby, I assumed it would hold itself to a similar standard.  But no, just a seemingly shabby resignation.  

While that is not a glowing introduction, in the end, we did have a satisfactory stay in Bratislava.

So, here's the scene.  We had just experienced three fairytale days in Salzburg, Austria.  The train ride from Salzburg to Vienna was top notch with efficient and comfortable Austrian rail service.  After a quick tram to the main Vienna station, we boarded the Slovakian train which was, apparently, a preview of things to come.  Basic, worn and without air conditioning, it was a sticky journey, but luckily, only an hour.  Fun Fact!  Vienna and Bratislava are the two closest European capitals.  

Upon arrival, we decided not to hang out at the depressing train station (first photo) while waiting to check into our AirBnB, but rather at a bar around the corner.  The beer was cheap and tasty, which helped me reset my first impression button from negative to neutral.  

It didn't last long.  After check-in, we located the nearest grocery store online and began walking.  Reviews had indicated we weren't in a really bad neighborhood- we were right next door to a four star hotel- but the blight we encountered made me wonder.  Hordes of buildings with broken windows and graffiti.  Overgrown grass on every lot.  Yet, the sidewalks were filled with people: dog walkers, young couples pushing baby strollers and men in business suits.  

Namestie Slobody

The park across from the Presidential Palace was the most puzzling of all.  Namestie Slobody was once a major square featuring the biggest fountain in Slovakia, the Fountain of Union.  Designed to look like a linden flower, it was built in 1980, but was not maintained properly after the fall of Communism in 1989.  Sadly, it stopped working in 2007 and has fallen into ruin- filled with graffiti, overgrown grass and broken cobbles.   Despite this, the park was filled with people enjoying themselves.  Kids running, dogs playing and friends sitting on a bench catching up- all seemingly unbothered by the conditions that surrounded them.

Not the best start.

Fountain of Union

The next day, things started to look up.  We walked to Bratislava Castle where a food festival was in full swing, complete with alpine horn blowers.  The Castle was a pleasant, but forgettable diversion, lacking the soul I usually feel when visiting old buildings.  That is because it was destroyed during WWII and has since been rebuilt, so while it is a perfectly nice replica, the atmosphere borders on antiseptic, without much personality.

Steps up to Bratislava Castle

Ricola...

Bratislava Castle

The nice breeze and views of the Danube made me pensive, and so we sat at the top while I downloaded a history lesson.  

Known as Pressburg for over 900 years, the town was an important outpost of the Austria-Hungary empire and Habsburg monarchy.  After WWI, despite a majority German and Hungarian population, it was usurped into Czechoslovakia where it was renamed Bratislava and the Slovak population rose rapidly.  Under Nazi control in WWII, it was bombed heavily by the Allies and taken over by the Communist Party in 1948 which held it until Slovakian independence during the Velvet Revolution of 1989.

UFO Bridge and Tower

View of the Danube from the top of Bratislava Castle

Afterwards, we headed to the cat cafe nearby, which I reviewed in a previous blog post.  Here, we encountered a lot of ripped up sidewalks- urban blight (perhaps artfully) intertwined with remodeled sections.  Rome wasn't built in a day and neither is the new Bratislava.

Major tourist thoroughfare?  No problem.

One thing they do well is quirky.  Bratislava has many humorous landmarks and statues that make for great photo ops.  The most famous of these is called 'Man at Work' or familiarly, Cumil.  Another is the aptly named Paparazzi.  Finally, there is a strange landmark with a large ear and pointing statue outside the Vietnamese embassy.  Bizarre!

Pat Cumil's head for good luck

Can you hear me now?

Paparazzi

The following day, we focused on the small, yet pleasant Old Town.  We had a nice meal on the patio at Prasna Basta.

Entrance to Old Town

Main Square

National Theatre

A walk down the peaceful Danube capped off our final night in Bratislava.

In the end, I can appreciate Bratislava for what she is.  Just like all of us, there may be a little (or a lot!) 'under construction' as we work toward who we optimally want to be.  While not there yet, it doesn't mean the city is not worth a visit.  A day trip from Vienna or one night while traveling between Vienna and Budapest should provide enough time to hit the highlights and if you like a little (or a lot) of shadow to balance out the light, make it a long weekend.

Although Bratislava proved underwhelming, little did I know a wonderful surprise was just around the corner: overwhelmingly romantic Budapest.

A Vacation in Salzburg (or An Excuse to Post Photos of Sound of Music Sites & Mountains)

I had a vacation in Salzburg recently. 

'Wait,' you say.  'Aren't you already on vacation?'

Famed native son of Salzburg

I know, you are thinking of your own last vacation, where you traveled to an all-inclusive resort, romantic B&B or a luxurious city hotel.  Generally, a vacation is a short term break.  A holiday.  An escape from regular life, or at least, your boss.  But long-term travel isn't a short break and it's a rare vagabond who refers to her travels as luxurious.  It's physically and fiscally impossible to maintain a steady diet of hotel rooms and unlimited tourist activities.

Mirabell Gardens (where many of the Do Re Mi scenes were filmed in the Sound of Music) with Salzburg Fortress in the background

I'll give you a rundown of what a typical day looks like in a future post, but it's hardly a vacation in the traditional sense.   Instead of hotels, we stay in budget AirBnB apartments, where shower shoes are necessary at times.  Rather than eat out every meal, we cook much of our food, where sometimes frozen veggies + jar of curry = dinner.  And instead of seeing every attraction, we usually pick the 'best' ones (i.e. FREE).  Much more reality than escapism.

Arch from the Do Re Mi scene in Sound of Music

Don't pretend like you don't remember this from Do Re Mi in SoM (Sound of Music)

'OK, I get it,' you say.  'So why did you have a vacation?' 

Glad you asked!  

While in Tallinn, I received a message that good friends from Minnesota were going to be in Salzburg, Austria the following week, and would we happen to be nearby to meet up?  Perry and I laughed at our good fortune.  After locking in transport and accommodation for the first month (and missing out on a potential house sitting opportunity in Oslo), this was the first time we decided to keep things open after our next stop- three days in Riga.  

Fortress, Old Town and drainage :)

After booking a cheap flight (thanks, Air Baltic) and a nice hotel using points (thanks, US Bank), we high fived.  We were about to have a few days that looked like a typical vacation.  Upscale hotel, check.  Beautiful location, check.  Fun tourist activities, check.  But the real bonus was having two great friends to share the experience and jazz things up.  We love each other and all, but sometimes you need a fresh injection of conversation.

Cute street- look up to see the date of building (ignore ugly construction)

When we checked into the Crowne Plaza, you would think I hadn't stayed in a decent hotel before.  I inhaled the delicious new carpet smell like it was the first campfire of the season.  I stroked the smooth sheets lovingly.  With a tear in my eye, I gazed upon the immaculately clean shower where flip flops would NOT be necessary.

Horse bath- another site from Do Re Mi in Sound of Music

Never have I been so grateful for a hotel room.  I began to feel ashamed of the numerous business trips and national sales meetings with similar accommodation, and when asked how my room was, would casually reply 'OK' or, even worse, 'I've had better.'  Honestly, what a brat.

Franciscan Church

Dinner with the Clarks that night was one of those surreal experiences when you are sitting with people you know well, but since it's a strange environment, you keep thinking 'Is this crazy or what?'   We swapped travel stories over platters of schnitzel and steins of beer before setting our plan for the next two days.  Day One: Tour Salzburg.  Day Two: Bus to Eagle's Nest, just over the border in Germany.

Was this also in the Sound of Music?  Yes, duh!

Salzburg Cathedral (not where they filmed the wedding scenes)

Our day in Salzburg was a tour-de-force, courtesy of Jennie, who had been on a legit (guided) tour the day before.  It felt great to follow someone else for a change, without thinking about where to turn AND having fun facts provided, free of charge!  She showed us the Sound of Music sites (watch Do Re Mi here if you need a refresher), churches with secret entrances, and her favorite cute cafe before we stopped at the bottom of a hill with a path to the fortress on top.

Salzburg Fortress

You can choose the funicular (a tram on rails) to take you up to the top, or walk.  We figured more walking = more beer earned, so we hoofed it.  The rewarding views made a little extra sweat worth it.  

After a nice lunch at the top, capped off by a Mozart coffee, (employs a dark chocolate liquor) we toured excavated Roman ruins and a marionette museum.

Mozart coffee, anyone?

At the top of the fortress, we noticed a park nearby and headed towards it.  This turned out to be good fortune as this was Monchsberg Park, a beautiful green space with quiet trails and outstanding views.  If you need to escape the crowds in Old Town, pay a visit to this peaceful oasis and catch the church bells during twilight.

Another Sound of Music site- the house (center) where the veranda/river scenes were filmed

Daredevils!

We worked our way back to town slowly, strolling through the cemetery at the bottom of the hill and once more through Mirabell Gardens to pat the head of the lucky dwarf and stand on the Do Re Mi steps.  Yes, more Sound of Music sites- they are everywhere!

Another Sound of Music scene?  Yes, the one where they hide from the Nazi's in the abbey cemetery 

Pat on the head for good luck.  SoM scene, yes.

Scene of Do Re Mi finale on the steps

The next day we were up early to catch the 7:30 tour bus to Eagle's Nest, about 12 miles from Salzburg.  Also known as Kehlsteinhaus, the structure sits on top of Obersalzburg above the town of Berchtesgaden, Germany.  It was built in 1938 as a meeting place for Hitler and his high ranking officers.  

The views on the ride up were jaw dropping and stomach turning as the bus chugged along the narrow switchbacks, inches from the edge of the cliff.

At the top, the scenery was even more majestic.  

Eagle's Nest would never have happened without Jeremy's suggestion and we are lucky to have experienced it.  During this 4.5 hour excursion, you get a comfortable coach ride to and from the site, entrance to the top and a stop for lunch (not included) in a cute village nearby.   It was worth every penny of the 50 euro cost and was truly the highlight of our Salzburg trip.  For an additional cost, you can add the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine Tour and make it a full days outing. 

That evening over dinner, we did more catching up and reminisced about good times at Jeremy and Jennie's gym, Minnesota Top Team in Eagan, Minnesota.  

Our vacation had come to an end.  As we said our goodbyes, I felt a twinge of homesickness, but buoyed by a few days of good friends and easy living, was ready to get back on the road.  Little did we know that Bratislava would serve up a harsh slap of reality, in contrast to the fairytale fantasy that was Salzburg.

Special thanks to Jeremy and Jennie Clark for making our time in Austria memorable and simply amazing!  

If you are in the Twin Cities area, and are thinking about training in Jiu-Jitsu, Boxing, Cross-Fit, Boot Camp, Yoga or Personal Training, check out Minnesota Top Team! 

Next time on Gobsmacked:  Surviving Bratislava