A moment of cheer in between the rain and cold

Thanks or No Thanks? Our Worst Travel Mishaps in Europe

November 23, 2017

Three and a half months on the Old Continent are coming to a close and in the spirit of Thanksgiving, I know I should be thinking about all the things for which I am grateful.

But that would be boring, right?

All this travel is supposed to help me find my zen (or at least something resembling it, dammit!), but after fifteen weeks, sixteen countries and twenty seven different places called 'home', I'm exhausted and in the mood to whine a bit.

So, if you will indulge me while I get this negativity out of my system, I promise to end on a positive note.

THE RAIN

First, I will begin with the nonstop rain, which has been my nemesis since the end of September. What began as a mere annoyance has become downright miserable with a couple of stories I will share for your Thanksgiving entertainment.

Bus Stop: Riga, Latvia

Trusty instructions from our Airbnb host clutched in my hand, we stepped off the bus from Lithuania near Riga's Central Market and made our way to the city bus station.

Our apartment was only two miles away and normally we would just walk, but as it was raining, decided to find trolleybus 23 to, you know, make it easy on ourselves. We stood in the busy transport area for quite awhile before we spied a bus with number 23 and quickly hopped on. Paying the fee, we positioned ourselves out of the way and everything seemed fine until it turned a corner that didn't match up with my map.

After several minutes, realizing we were moving farther and farther away from our destination, the bus stopped and the driver turned around, yelling at us in Latvian while pointing at the street. It was the end of the line, and he was telling us to 'hit the road, Jack'.

So there we were, in the middle of nowhere Riga. I was too furious to take another bus back to the center and figure out where things went wrong, so decided to cool my heels and without consulting Perry (sorry, babe), began to walk in the direction of our apartment.

Texting with the owner, I was informed that there is a difference between a bus and a trolleybus. Trolleybuses look like regular buses, but are also attached to overhead cables. Apparently we had taken an ordinary bus. Why the authorities in Riga felt the need to use the same number for two different services that stop in the same place (where most tourists arrive in the country) remains a cruel mystery to me. There is no logic in this place. (Said in Sad Cat Diary voice)

Eventually, cold, wet and exhausted, we made it our apartment, but the buses of Riga weren't done with me yet. The next day, we stood outside our apartment (in the pouring rain, of course), debating if we should walk one mile to the mall or catch the bus. I turned to point to the bus stop about 100 feet away when the 23 trolleybus sped past me and splashed a large puddle directly into my face.

Drenched, I turned to Perry whose shocked face searched mine for a reaction.

I burst into laughter, because considering the day before, it was pretty funny.

GETTING THE BOOT: Paris, France

I'm proud of my nearly complete transformation from fashion-saddled overpacker to dressed-down spare traveler. But while I gave zero shits about how I looked in Asia, there is something about traipsing about the cities of Europe that the remaining hint of my former self demands I TRY to look as pulled together as possible.

Thus, the boots.

Bulky, sweaty and impractical for a full-time traveler that needs to prepared to walk miles at a moments notice, I realize the decision to bring my black Frye boots was irrational and borderline ridiculous. But I did.

While I didn't wear them during the waning days of August and first week of September, temperatures cooled quickly and I pretty much wore them every day until the end of October. Then, the Boot Curse of Paris struck again.

First, the back story.

Paris, New Year's Eve 2013.

Perry and I visited the City of Light to ring in the New Year under the Eiffel Tower. I was convinced it would be memorable and soo romantic. Well, it was memorable.

I had a special outfit and thought I was oh-so-Paris chic. I can't even remember what clothes I wore anymore, but I do know what I had on my feet.

Frye boots. Gray leather. Brand new. Gorgeous.

It could have been the best night ever, for me and my boots, but instead it rained.

I mean POURED. We looked like drowned rats standing under the Eiffel Tower and after the underwhelming light show at midnight, began trudging back to the hotel, about three miles away, because all of the metro stations were closed. I remember it well because my feet were soaking wet and the leather soles of my boots kept slipping on the slick pavement in a bizarre and irritating dance sequence: clip, clop, slide, repeat. ACK!

Back in our room, my feet were a hot mess of blisters and the boots, ruined. Lesson learned, right?

Paris, October 29, 2017

After dropping our bags at left luggage in Gare du Nord, we took the metro to Cité with the plan to walk along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower. Despite no mention of it in the forecast, it began to rain. Initially, I was cool about it and we popped into a cafe for some coffee. After an hour, it had let up slightly so decided to give it a go and down the Quai Voltaire we went!

Thirty minutes later, we arrived at Invalides station, which was appropriate considering my feet were soaking wet and had so many blisters, I could hardly walk.

Back at Gare du Nord, we spent hours in the cold standing around waiting for our Eurostar to London. Eight hours after our walk in the rain, I finally removed my footwear and took stock of the damage. Four blisters, two frozen feet and one pair of ruined boots.

I stashed them in the closet of Sue and Roger's house in Yaxley and when we returned to Paris on November 17, they were laid to rest in a dumpster in Versailles, which is a pretty classy funeral, for shoes.

I'd like to think this won't happen again, but....

THE COLD

So, if it hasn't been pouring, it's been freezing. Like a miserable bickering couple, rainy and cold just go together!

We've lacked sufficient heat in many of our European apartments with Vienna, Vilnius, Riga, Belfast and Paris having none at all! They eventually fixed the heat in Paris, but for a while, it all felt very starving artist as I bundled up and wrote by candlelight in our crappy, cold apartment. At least Riga had a space heater which I positioned next to me, huddled over my laptop, blanket pulled tight around my shoulders. I couldn't help but feel I was in a Dickens novel of my own creation.

I'd like to think this won't happen again but...

TRAVEL MISHAPS

All travelers have mishaps at some point. Be it injury, theft or transport snafu, these moments can range from minor inconvenience to major disaster. I'm grateful to have never had a true catastrophe, just a debacle or two.

Eurostar: What Happened?

The first time I took the Eurostar, it was 2011 and it was my 40th Birthday. We had started the day with breakfast in Geneva, lunched outside on a glorious sunny day in Paris and ended the evening with fish and chips in London.

Between Paris and London, I was able to enjoy a glass of champagne and scenery in the comfortable, classy environs of Eurostar. Between 2012-2014, I rode on Eurostar several more times and had no reason to think anything had changed.

That was then, this is now.

Eurostar 2017 is something else. After waiting in an angry mob-style queue for hours, our train departed over one hour late causing us to miss our onward journey to Peterborough, forcing us to buy new tickets at triple the cost. The coach itself was woefully rundown and dirty, but one thing has remained the same, the outrageous fortune they charge to take this service.

I'd like to think this won't happen again but....

Belfast: Know Your Airport

We flew from London Luton to Belfast International in Northern Ireland a few weeks ago and our time there was a fine experience, highlighted by a day trip to Dublin. On the day of our flight to Paris, we were up early and walked a mile (in the rain OF COURSE) to the bus station at 6 am to catch the airport shuttle which takes about 40 minutes. Inside the airport, we decided to exchange our Pounds into Euros, when the cashier noticed my boarding pass and with a full on Irish accent, said the following:

'Darlin, ye be at the wrong airport, it's City Airport ye be wantin'. Ah, and at this hour gettin' there ain't goin' to be pretty.'

If I hadn't been so freaked out, I would have queried her further to be sure the accent wasn't fake.

Fast forward, and a long, expensive cab ride back into town and George Best City Airport, we did make our flight, but not without a ton of angst. Even though I'm aware lots of cities have two airports, I really didn't think Belfast was one of them.

I'd like to think this won't happen again but.....

THANKFUL FOR FRIENDS

So, there is our European autumn in a nutshell- cold, wet, tiring. But I promised to end on a positive note, so here it is.

I'm grateful for my friends & family all over the world, especially the ones who helped make these last few less-than-ideal travel months worth it. In Sweden, Germany, Austria, Netherlands, France, UK and the US (including the wedding of two very lovely people), we had wonderful moments with friends old and new, including several of the feline variety.

Last but not least, we've hit up forty two cat cafes in the last fifteen weeks. Check out theneighborscat.com if you want to hear more about our crazy cat adventures.

Cat Village North, Chesterfield, United Kingdom

Happy Thanksgiving America and thanks for reading!

Rooftop pool at an Airbnb in Bangkok, Thailand

Global Travel on a Budget: Best Airbnb's For $50/Night (or less!)

October 1, 2017

As mid-range budget travelers, we strive to book accommodation that runs $50/night or less to help adhere to our overall goal of $100/day for the two of us.

If you think $50 only gets you a bed in a shared hostel room with eight giggly college students or a run-down apartment with a lumpy mattress and sketchy shower, think again.

Airbnb has been fundamental in making our (budget) travels possible and I've previously written about how I identify decent properties. Sure, more money (usually) means better digs, but our objective is to stay on the road as long as possible, so we can't afford to overspend.

But that doesn't mean we want to suffer, either. I'm here to tell you that you can do a lot with $50/night. Yes, we've had a few bad bed/dirty bathroom experiences, but the majority of our 'low cost' stays have been good with a few, downright outstanding. Heck, I can only think of one that was definitely yucky, but even that was far from a horror story.

Sure, it's easier to hit that target in SE Asia, but what if I told you that two of the places on my 'Best Of' list are in notoriously expensive Japan?

View from the bedroom window of an Airbnb in Brasov, Romania

Of course, renting a private room is much cheaper than an entire apartment, and while we definitely have done that at times, especially during a short stay, have found a week in our own apartment is more cost effective as we can cook most of our food. Being in someone's house, no matter how easy-going they are, means we tend to eat out more... which means we spend more money than if we had just rented our own place to begin with.

What It Takes to Be The Best

Pool and workout room at a Chiang Mai, Thailand  apartment — Pool and workout room at a Chiang Mai, Thailand apartment

Besides the cost, what makes these places stand out as the best? While the obvious answer would be 'because they are nice', the factors that make up 'nice' can vary. Most have a ridiculously comfortable bed and high quality bedding- which help vault places to the top and while lots of places have a fairly decent bed, you wouldn't believe how many ruin it with cheap, sandpaper-like sheets.

Other times, it might be because of a powerful shower or really great design. In other cases, it's fantastic amenities like a pool or workout room, a killer location or a great host that make an apartment an ace property.

So, what are these super heroes of lower cost travel? Read on for a peek into a few of my favorite apartments for $50 or less per night.

10) Osaka, Japan

Small, but perfectly formed apartment in Osaka, Japan

This place was tiny, but everything was brand new, exceptionally clean and well-designed. The bed was super comfy, although I don't know I would consider what covered the bed to be an actual sheet.

Regardless, it was a really cool place to stay and conveniently located right on the metro stop Sakuragawa, but with the exception of our transport to/from the main train station, didn't use the metro as we were able to walk to Dotonbori in about 10 minutes. Dotonbori is the main tourist district in Osaka and a hoot to visit at night, all neon, busy restaurants and kooky atmosphere.

For $37/night, this was a steal in super expensive Japan, and even though there were kitchen facilities, we ate out a lot more because it was so cheap.

9) Nanjing, China

Open floor plan and stellar city views in Nanjing

Nanjing is an enormous city with a skyscraper filled downtown area. It was here that we were lucky to find this well appointed and super clean space with a large comfortable bed and unbelievable city views.

The location was ideal as we were central to all the best malls and food shops, also being on two metro lines means we were easily able to navigate to all points of the city.

The kitchen was bit gimmicky, but it was stocked well enough for us to make eggs for breakfast and the occasional quick snack of dumplings and chili sauce.

At $44/night, it was a great value.

8) Kyoto, Japan

Traditional tatami mats and perfectly pressed sheets in Kyoto, Japan

So, you might think sleeping on the floor would not qualify an apartment for the 'Best Of' list, but you would be wrong.

The tatami mats in this adorable apartment were the best part of the stay. It was like having my own personal Japanese-themed sleepover, which made me giggle every night when I laid them out. The kicker? They were actually comfortable.

The other stand-out feature of this apartment was how clean it was. I don't think I've been in a more immaculate place in my life. Everything was so fresh, even the sheets were neatly pressed.

Our $52/night rate was discounted due to booking a full week. In writing this article, I see the rate is currently showing up at $67+ a night, but Keiko also offers a similar apartment in Kyoto for $50.

If you seek authenticity, comfort, cleanliness, location AND a lovely host all at a great price, well, look no further.

7) Brasov, Romania

Spacious and nicely furnished apartment in Brasov, Romania

What a breath of fresh air after our less-than-ideal experience in Bucharest. Just as I was about to write off Romania completely, Brasov saved my opinion.

The host, Florin, is one of the best Airbnb hosts I've met during our long term travels- friendly, polite and personable, he even picked us up from the train station and provided great suggestions for restaurants, day trips and the like.

The apartment itself is really nice and super clean with high quality furnishings that are just-like-home comfortable. You could easily live here long term with all of the amenities (washer/dryer, dishwasher, etc). The location is super quiet and a short 5 minute walk to the center with all the cafes and restaurants.

But my favorite feature was the nighttime view of the Brasov sign on the side of Tampa Mountain. Standing at the window, staring at the Transylvania hills, it was one of those magic travel moments. All for $39/night.

6) Prague, Czech Republic

The comfortable bed and spacious balcony with great views in Prague, Czech Republic

This apartment was absolutely fantastic with so many nice touches. The host works for the Four Seasons and clearly understands hospitality.

From the washing machine complete with detergent pillows to the luxury hand soap, it's the little things that help elevate this wonderful apartment. Modern, immaculately clean and beautifully decorated, Josef's place is amongst the best Airbnb's we've ever stayed in and an incredible value at only $53/night, which would have been much less if we had booked a full week and why I'm technically cheating by including it.

5) Bangkok, Thailand

Rooftop pool with outstanding views in Bangkok, Thailand

The first time I saw the photo of this rooftop pool on Airbnb, I did a double take because price per night was listed as $40.

I admit I was skeptical, but booked it because of the great reviews. We arrived after a 38 hour travel day a bit loopy, but my apprehension evaporated when the taxi pulled up to a brand new building. Our host was waiting for us and after a quick tour, we collapsed into bed. The next day, we admired how nice and clean everything was, including the workout room, but we were particularly blow away by the pool. My favorite memories from Bangkok were our nightly swims overlooking the city, which were so refreshing after long, hot days of touring.

The location was also excellent with several restaurants and a very nice Tops supermarket nearby. We took advantage of the nearby Chong Nonsi BTS station, only 5 minutes walk, which brought us to the city center in only two stops.

The only reason this apartment isn't number one is because of the hard bed. While this is typical in Asia, it was a bit too firm for my liking.

However, if you don't mind it, then I strongly encourage you to book this place when in Bangkok.

4) Krakow, Poland

Professionally designed apartment in Krakow, Poland

I fell completely in love with this apartment.

So thoughtfully designed and completely stylish, it has the perfect blend of modern comfort and classic elegance. The designer has used materials from the apartment's past life so there are vintage elements (bathroom tiles, some furniture and photos) that balance out the contemporary side of things- important considering the history of the neighborhood. I loved how immaculately clean it was with a brand new, luxurious bathroom and beyond comfortable bed with the nicest smelling sheets. I send out gratitude vibes to the universe any night I'm sleeping in quality sheets!

The location is top notch- Kazimierz (the old Jewish quarter) has a great atmosphere and the coolest bars and restaurants. This is where you want to be based, not Old Town. To cap it all off, the host Anna is exceptionally kind and an excellent communicator.

At $43/night ($29/night if you book a weeks stay), this apartment is beyond good value- it's under-priced.

3) Sofia, Bulgaria

This was the first Airbnb where I jumped for joy when I walked through the front door.

After weeks of decent, but never outstanding accommodations, this apartment was a delightful treat. Everything was so new and so nice, none of my own apartments have come close to such luxury.

The host is into all things high tech and has outfitted the apartment with all kinds of bells and whistles such as electronic black-out blinds and a futuristic mood lighting system.

I personally loved the heated (and grippy!) black tile floors.

There is a grocery store practically underneath the apartment as well as several cute restaurants in the same complex. A five minute walk to the metro, you can be in the midst of the ancient tourist area in another seven minutes.

We loved Sofia (hiking Vitosha Mountain was a serious highlight) and this apartment definitely help enhance our opinion of the city overall.

We gladly paid $42/night to stay here.

2) Warsaw, Poland

Thoughtful design and high quality furnishings in Warsaw, Poland

Absolutely top notch in every way!

First, our host Malgorzata, was incredibly kind and thoughtful and has gone above and beyond to give her guests a first class experience. The apartment is brand new and finished to a very high standard- right down to the luxury shower gel. It's so lovely and comfortable, we found it difficult to leave and tour the city!

The location is also fabulous, in the hip section of Warsaw called Powisle. With trendy restaurants (I loved both Cool Cat and Solec 44) and a supermarket one block away, a five minute tram from the main train/bus station and twenty minute walk (recommend walking along the Vistula River) to the Old Town, you are in an ideal situation for a city break.

An incredible value for $50/night.

1) Chiang Mai, Thailand

Better than a luxury hotel in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Everything about this gated community apartment was high-end and luxurious. From the super comfortable bed and yummy bedding to the gorgeous pool and workout center, we felt like we were staying in an expensive hotel... except we only paid $50 per night.

The friendly host, Jan, goes above and beyond as well, by providing breakfast food, not a common perk, but greatly appreciated.

We spent four nights here after a week at another apartment which was nice, but a bit far from the action. Here, we were practically right on top of Nimman Road, a bustling throroughfare filled with a mixture of Thai and Western-style shops and restaurants and a short distance from the tourist mecca that is the old city.

I remember sipping my coffee on the balcony with views of the hills surrounding Chiang Mai and being filled with awe and gratitude.

Even if it's just for a few nights, make sure to book Jan's place if you ever find yourself in Chiang Mai.

Thanks for reading!

Things I'm Getting Used To: Europe, Round II

September 24, 2017

It’s been quite a while since my last ‘Things I’m Getting Used To’ update, mainly due to the new website I’m building, the cat café review masterpiece-in-progress The Neighbor’s Cat. After a eureka moment in a Shanghai cat café where I threw out the comment ‘Did you know I have more visits to my website for cat café reviews than anything else I've written?’ things went from idea to fully fledged plan within weeks.

While the concept may seem a bit silly, it’s actually been a serious skill building experience as I simultaneously create a website from scratch while writing reviews and blogposts, teaching myself the basics of SEO/Google keyword search and getting a handle on all things social media. All while changing location every three to four days.

Despite all the time I am devoting to this endeavor, I haven't stopped musing on the magnificent and mundane aspects of long-term travel, lucky you, dear reader.

Fast Travel… is Happy Travel?

Travel day from Cloppenburg to Cologne (Germany)

We are back in Europe for 'round two' in order to capture all the chocolate milk (Perry) and cat cafes (Paula) we missed last year. With only 90 days (the duration of time Americans can stay in Europe as regular tourists) and a lot of ground to cover, we are moving fast and furiously. Normally, we stay in one location for at least a week, but lately, three to four days is it. So far, the biggest downside has been the extra time I'm spending on logistics, so we have adopted a ‘divide and conquer’ approach with Paula responsible for lodging (using my well-tested methods for identifying decent, yet cheap Airbnb apartments) and Perry in charge of transportation via planes, trains, buses and ferries!

I was concerned we would burn out moving so quickly, but so far, so good as we have interspersed previously visited places (Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Berlin, Prague, Budapest) with brand new ones (Malmo, Hamburg, Cologne and Vienna). This has helped give us enough down time between tourist activities. On the horizon, we’ve got several new cities back-to-back (Krakow, Warsaw and Vilnius) in a short period of time, but if necessary, loins will be girded.

Speaking of fast, moving at this pace has seemingly accelerated time itself. It might be a side effect of our new ventures as last year our open days seemed to slow the clock while this year, the hours of work we are putting into our various websites have sped it up.

Rain, Rain Go Away

The gardens of Schönbrunn Palace are beautiful even in the rain

Even though we are nearly to 18 months on the road with countless hours spent outside doing everything from combing city streets to hiking mountain trails, we’ve rarely had rain affect our activities. I don’t even carry an umbrella because the need for one has occurred so rarely. I can remember one soggy excursion in Sapporo, but nothing really in last year's European travels.

I guess I just figured we were lucky (or invincible), but that attitude has come to an abrupt end. We’ve had multiple wet outings since we returned to Europe on August 17, and our rain jackets have been in such steady rotation, I keep it in my daypack instead of rolled up deep in a packing cube, which is where it usually lives.

I succumbed and purchased an inexpensive €5 umbrella to get through a day of touring Cologne, but then had to leave it behind as it was not one of those compact models, but rather a classic curved handle sucker. I keep telling myself I will buy one of those lightweight cheapies from H&M, but then forget until we get caught out in the next downpour.

I'm crossing my fingers for a spell of dry weather. Or a timely visit to H&M.

The Wheels on the Bus

We’ve always been budget-minded travelers, but our thrifty ways have been kicked up a notch with this second round in Europe. Our new mantra? FAF, or Frugal As F*ck. Pardon the vulgarity but I'm a big fan of economy AND alliterative slogans.

I love trains, but in Europe they are just crazy expensive compared to the bus. Since Berlin, the two of us have traveled to Prague, Vienna, Budapest and Krakow on the bus for less than what we paid for one ticket from Frankfurt to Berlin on the train.

For real.

Most of the trips have been pretty awesome (exception being the crowded bus to Vienna which got lost in rural Czech Republic) with comfortable coaches and gorgeous sights/scenery, like Orava Castle in the mountains of northern Slovakia.

Thanks FlixBus!

Orava Castle in the mountains of northern Slovakia

From Vienna With Love

In addition to less costly transport, we are much more hardcore about eating most meals at home so we can have the occasional splurge like the eating out we did in Vienna.

While Perry was on the hunt for chocolate milk, I treated myself to a piece of Sachertorte at Café Sacher before an evening at the Vienna Opera to see Salome.

The original Sachertorte...even the courts agree! — The original Sachertorte...even the courts agree!

Oh, look!  There's a band! — Oh, look! There's a band!

Then, there was the Heuriger we visited with Bill and Judy.

What’s a Heuriger? I hadn’t heard of one either before we went, but the concept is somewhat similar to Italy’s agriturismo where a vineyard has its own restaurant where they serve their wine and local dishes.

On (yet another) rainy day, Bill and Judy, (fellow Americans we met at the Diverbo language program in Laubach, Germany and who used to live in Vienna), graciously walked the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace with us and then shared their favorite Vienna insider secret, Heuriger Nigl in Perchtoldsdorf.

The village sign shows which Heurigers are open.

After a ride to the outskirts of Vienna on an old-fashioned street car, we walked through the lovely village of Perchtoldsdorf to Nigl. Escaping the cold rain, it was warm and inviting inside, with traditional Austrian chalet-style interiors-- all rustic wood, yet at the same time, refined.

But it was the food and wine that really blew me away. Simple, yet perfectly prepared, we feasted on a smorgasbord of roasted pork with knödel and sauerkraut, fried emmentaler cheese and pickled vegetables, washed down with generous (look at our glasses!) pours of Gruner Veltliner. Even though the food was plentiful, we made sure to save room for apple strudel in vanilla sauce and crepes with apricot marmalade. I'm in rapture just remembering it.

They don't happen every day, but these are the authentic experiences that make for magical travel memories. Thanks Judy and Bill!

Random Thoughts

My Spanish practice, which has been ongoing for the past three years (but has accelerated since we've been on the road) has improved to the point where I'm almost ready to strike up actual conversation on the streets and not just skulk behind Spanish speakers attempting to practice translating conversations while I eavesdrop.

My big test will come this winter in Argentina and Chile when we hike Patagonia, so if you are a Spanish speaker who would like to help me out with a few practice conversations on Skype, let me know!

And finally, have you ever wondered what are the strangest things Perry and I carry around in our backpacks? Wonder no more.

Paula: Dish Scrubbers/Sponges

I'm seriously creeped out by the ghastly state of sponges we find in Airbnb apartments... I wouldn't scrub a toilet with the condition I've found some of these so-called kitchen scrubbers, much less a dish I'm going to eat off of!!! Thus, I travel with brand new sponges because they are lightweight, take up very little room and contain no mysterious microbes yet-to-be-named.

Perry: Marigolds

Not the flowers, but the yellow rubber gloves used for washing dishes, Marigolds are a UK brand which have been a constant fixture in Perry's life since he became an honorary 'homemaker'* in 2012.