The Many Moods of Japan

If you know me, even casually, you know I'm a 'feeler.'  

Not that kind of feeler (tsk-tsk!) but rather, someone who gets a sense about a place based on how it makes them feel.  In Japan, the different cities we visited each had a distinct emotion that made the country endlessly enjoyable.  From electric to peaceful, historic to modern and friendly to reserved, the islands of Japan have a mood to satisfy every traveler.

Sapporo:  Fresh & Friendly

Mountains near Sapporo

Our first stop on our tour of Japan was the northern island of Hokkaido and city of Sapporo.

I didn't know much about Sapporo before we arrived, just a vague recollection of its eponymous beer and annual snow festival.  

It ended up taking top honors for my favorite city.  

Maybe it was coming from Seoul, a massive behemoth of a city, but the relatively small population of two million charmed this city-comparing Goldilocks and it was just right.

Neon lights of Sapporo

Not too big and not too small, this relatively new city (by Japanese standards) felt infinitely approachable, even home-like.  I could see easily see myself living there.

First, the setting.  I'm a northern country girl at heart, and the fresh, open spaces and natural beauty of Hokkaido appealed to my outdoors-y side.  This is ski country and the mountains that surround the city are majestic and easily accessible for winter sports, as well as summer hiking.  

Wine and Ramen Festival in Odori park

But far from being a cultural dearth, Sapporo also has a quiet sophistication with a multitude of things to do.  In the five days spent there, we saw a professional baseball game (Nippon-Ham Fighters v Fukuoka Soft Bank Hawks), attended a concert at a jazz bar, walked the Ramen and Wine Festival in Odori park and visited three cat cafes.

Baseball & Beer

On top of that, the food was a delight.  Sapporo has its own unique food culture, and from Onigiri to Soup Curry to the best Ramen (of the ten different bowls I had the good fortune of eating while in Japan), the city didn't disappoint.

Sapporo's famed Soup Curry

Finally, it was the people I met in Sapporo that clinched it as my favorite spot in Japan.  Incredibly hospitable, Sapporo-ans are among the most outgoing of Japanese that we met.  When stopping someone on the street for directions, we received a friendly smile along with suggestions for other things to see and do!  

Jazz Bar 'Cats & Dogs' with Thaeko

I must give a huge shout out to Guest House Yuyu for providing such a personable and memorable experience at incredibly reasonable prices!  The staff offered great tips on local restaurants as well as outstanding conversation, including introducing us to another guest, Thaeko, who fast became our friend for outings not just in Sapporo, but also Osaka where she lives.  

Hi Thaeko, we miss you!  

Tokyo:  Frenetic & Catty

Ikebukuro neighborhood

Fast paced.  High energy.  Trend setting.  Leading edge.

If you are looking for inspiration in culture, trends, shopping, dining or wacky, consider Tokyo your muse.  

As the world's most populous metropolitan area (nearly double that of NYC!!), even this experienced traveler expected Tokyo to be overwhelming, but I had no idea just how much.

Takeshita Street in Harajuku

Simply choosing where to begin exploring became a case of analysis paralysis.  We stayed in the Takadanobaba neighborhood due to its location on the Japan Rail (JR) Yamanote line and proximity to popular neighborhoods Shinjuku, Harajuku, Shibuya and Ikebukuro.  But then we discovered Ueno, Akihabara and Tabata.  Even with ten days, it wasn't nearly enough.

Mocha Cat Cafe, Ikebukuro

Making friends with a Russian Blue (with green eyes)!

We did the best we could and managed to visit each of the above neighborhoods, as our goal was to visit all of the cat cafes in Tokyo, hence the 'catty' reference (we managed to make it to 24 out of 26).  But even with all that kooky kitty-ness, leave it to Tokyo to put a stroller filled with ten fluffy felines in our path while walking down a random street.  You can't make this stuff up.

Baby stroller full of cats?  In Tokyo, it's just an average day on the sidewalk.

I did manage to do one non-catty thing- a cooking class, contributing to my other Japanese obsession, Ramen.

I would kill for a bowl right now.  

Kyoto:  Calm & Dreamy

Nanzen-ji Temple

A close second to Sapporo, I loved the tranquility and living history all around Kyoto.

Maybe it was simply a contrast to the chaos of Tokyo, but Kyoto felt like one big sigh of relief.  I could think while I walked, absorbing the atmosphere around me.  

Fushimi Inari, popular Shinto shrine with famed gates

It turned out to be a walking meditation bonanza.  From the historic castles and temples to the natural scenery, there were plenty of opportunities to take in the serene atmosphere, even in 'crowded' places.

For example, we hiked Fushimi Inari shrine one day and while it was busy at the bottom, there were very few people at the top, where it was quiet and a bit spooky!  I made it to the popular Bamboo Forest another day for a relatively undisturbed trot through the walking paths and nearby Arashiyama neighborhood, but my favorite peaceful outing was walking the Zen gardens of Nanzen-ji temple and nearby Path of Philosophy at sunset. 

Bamboo Forest

The only area I didn't find particularly calm was downtown and the nearby Gion district where Kyoto's famed Geisha are few and far between-- with only tourist Geishas (regular people who pay to dress like one) taking over the scene-- but like all changes, this has now become part of the regular landscape.

Osaka:  Edgy & Fun

Giant gyoza, anyone?

If the calm of Kyoto begins to bore you, a different mood awaits just twelve minutes down the track via your Japan Rail pass: Osaka.

Osaka is a lot like Tokyo in terms of fast-paced excitement, however it's got a little bit something extra.  A little bit raucous and a little less buttoned up, the people of Osaka are known to be the loudest in Japan, in both audible and visual terms.  Which, on a spectrum, is nowhere near deafening or vulgar, but stands out in ultra-conservative Japan.  Of course, you might not see or hear it in shops and restaurants, but if you pay attention on the street, you will definitely notice the manner is a slightly less refined one.  

I found this attitude delightful and refreshing for the two days we spent in Osaka, which gives areas like Dotonbori a euphoric 'over the top' feeling.  The huge neon signs that occupy entire buildings and giant plastic octopus' and gyoza perched on top of restaurants are an Instagram-loving tourist's delight.  It's a circus-like atmosphere, but all in good fun.  

We had a couple of great meals in Osaka, including a fun night of bar/restaurant hopping with our friend Thaeko, underneath Osaka station and a couple of delicious okonomiyakis, (savory Japanese pancakes) including famed Ajinoya.

An evening along the Dotonbori River

Even with 24 days, there wasn't enough time to get to the very south to visit Hiroshima, but I'm glad I was able to experience a little bit of the spirit of each city we visited.  

Japan is far more diverse than I imagined, and it captivated me.  It presently ranks in my top two for favorite countries visited and I'm already dreaming about what moods I will find when I return.

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked: Party in the USA:  Thanks Family & Friends for a Great Summer!

I Quit My Job to Travel: Sixteen Months Later

Sixteen months ago, I quit my job to travel.  

If this sounds like a great decision to you, it is.  If this sounds like a poor decision to you, you are also right. 

Like everything in life, there are trade-offs.  Instead of living with financial and career stability in a comfortable home, I'm living off savings with a large resume gap in no-frills apartments.

Wait, didn't I just say quitting my job to travel was great?

It is, for me-- but it isn't for everyone.  Like most people, I had many reasons not to do this.  I had a great career making good money so why trade it for the challenging existence of a long-term traveler?

Partially because I wanted to, but mostly because, deep down, I needed to.

Last year, I articulated the reasons why I started this journey, but like most life lessons, it's tough to learn something without experiencing it first.  What I thought I would learn on the road didn't really happen the way I had envisioned.  And while it hasn't been non-stop rainbows and unicorns, the good has far outweighed the occasional anxiety induced freak-out along the way.

Phra Singh Temple, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Like the time I got lost in Belgrade, Serbia and stumbled into an area best described as 'the wrong side of the tracks'.  Or the time I had an anxiety attack in St. Petersburg, Russia after a horrible border crossing experience and one-too-many menacing looks on the street.  Or the nights with less-than-ideal beds and dirty showers.

However, even during these 'low' moments, I knew I had made the right choice.  Or, at least I knew they would make for great stories later.

This isn't an encouragement to quit your job and travel.  I can attest that this decision is not for everyone, and contrary to the Hollywood treatment of life on the road, it isn't one big wisdom-bestowing experience after another.  If you are looking for a life-changing epiphany, you probably won't find it out here.  Mini-epiphanies, sure, but the secret to life?  Nope.

I'm pretty much the same person I was before I left and traveling hasn't erased my deficiencies.  I still get anxious over things I can't control.  I can be quick to anger when things go wrong.  I tend to be impatient when things are slow.

But it happens much less often than it used to.  

So, besides developing a modicum of patience, what else have I learned during my year away from work?

No Fear: The Upside of Doing Without

Hiking in Mongolia

Set aside a certain number of days, during which you shall be content with the scantiest and cheapest fare, with coarse and rough dress, saying to yourself all the while: “Is this the condition that I feared?”

-Seneca, Letters to Lucillius

The biggest revelation has been how unafraid I am to have so little.  I didn't realize how much 'stuff' was mentally weighing me down.  My consumption lifestyle has now been replaced with the bare minimum.*

I say this while acknowledging what Maria Popova calls 'the reality check of privilege.'  It is a luxury that I can look upon my experience of thrift as character-building.  But my funds aren't limitless, and living on the road without the safety net of a regular paycheck means a spare existence isn't a 'nice to do'.  It's mandatory.

It wasn't always this way.  Before travel, I spent money extravagantly, yet unsurprisingly, was perpetually dissatisfied.  Today, I must think carefully before I hand over that credit card, but rather than feeling stressed, have found the prudent spending of a long-term traveler to be empowering.  

Again, this isn't for everyone and you certainly don't need to wear the same clothes out of a backpack for a year to check an overactive shopping habit!  To be clear, I don't hate the comforts of life or beautiful things.  I simply enjoy them less so I can travel more.

Besides, most of our best experiences cost next to nothing.  Like the lovely $16/night guesthouse in China where we met our Swedish friends.  Or the delicious $1.50 street food dinners we ate in Thailand. Or the life-changing and free (for volunteers) Diverbo language program in Spain.  All reinforcing that meaningful travel need not be expensive.   

There have certainly been a few splurges now and then (usually in the form of more comfortable accommodation!), but when we do, I feel a deep gratitude that I never had in my old life, when I used to refer to certain five star hotels as 'just ok'. [Cringe]

Curiosity Rules

The Great Wall of China at Mutianyu

Beauty comes in unbeautiful ways. 

-Bill Hayes, Insomniac City

There is much that I loved about working and I'm grateful to those companies and my colleagues for some wonderful experiences, but about a year before the trip, I was starting to lose my work mojo.  I felt dull and subdued.  

I was burned out. 

I wanted to re-ignite my zest for life and I knew I needed a change.  What I didn't know was how travel was about to unlock a wellspring of curiosity and creativity.  Once I started discovering the world, I wanted to know more.  The more I experienced new thoughts and ideas, they started flying out of my head, lifting me up with them.

I'm not saying you couldn't do this while working.  But for me, completely switching up the scenery was necessary.  I had to detach from being completely comfortable and feeling in control.

That meant embracing discomfort, but rather than causing anxiety, I found that this is the place where magic moments like to hide out.  

Making new friends in Dali, China

Following my curiosity has brought a great deal of aliveness to my travels.  It helps me meet people and attempt conversations in the local language, even when it feels awkward.  It allows me to get lost in challenging new areas in addition to foreigner-friendly tourist sites.  It helps me seek out local food instead of Western restaurants even though I usually have no idea what I'm doing.  Like the first time I ordered Hot Pot in China.

That's not to say I don't indulge in the comfort of English speakers, American-style malls and Starbucks.  But when I push myself beyond those initially uncomfortable encounters, I'm left energized and filled with feelings of warmth and appreciation.

Sixteen months ago, I didn't realize that travel would instill a sense of wonder that I haven't had in many years.  

Travel Skills = Life Skills

Forbidden City, Beijing, China

Have you ever tried to read the train timetable in China?  It's like trying to crack the Enigma code. How about facing less-than-friendly Hungarian authorities who are barking at you for your passport?  Or finding safe, clean and reasonable accommodation in a city you have never been before?

Contrary to the idea that travel is one perpetual leisure-fest, it actually takes a lot of work to stay on the road.  From understanding country entry requirements, to navigating the myriad of transportation options (not just deciding how to get there, but how to keep it low cost, too) to educating myself about cultural sensitivities and adding a few key phrases in the local language; all of this takes time and effort.

Of all the skills I've developed in my career, I'm most proud of the ones I've learned on the road.

• Tolerance and patience in the face of ambiguity and uncertainty
• Remaining positive and persevering in far-from-ideal circumstances
• Ability to adjust to changes and local customs, quickly
• Money management and adherence to a tight budget
• Ability to communicate across a wide variety of languages and cultures

All of these have helped me strengthen my emotional intelligence and inner fortitude in a way that will benefit my future endeavors as much as the hard skills I've learned in traditional corporate settings.  

Does that sound like self-rationalized feel-good speak?  Maybe, but I know I've truly learned more in the past year than I did in the previous ten.  Which is certainly my own fault, but hey, better late than never.

Busy = Worthy?

Camels in Mongolia

The cult of productivity has its place, but worshipping at its altar daily robs us of the very capacity for joy and wonder that makes life worth living. 

-Maria Popova

One of the goals I set out for myself during these travels was to become comfortable being, instead of always doing.  

You see, I'm a recovering people-pleasing busy-body.  My entire life, I have used busyness as a measure of my worth.  The more I checked off my list, I thought, the better, but in reality it was never good enough.  

That's the trap of productivity.

Sixteen months ago, the unrelenting achiever in me made a list of things I wanted to accomplish during my time out from work, because the actual travel wasn't 'enough'.  Here is a sample for your amusement.

• Achieve conversational level Spanish
• Create and monetize a travel website
• Write everyday
• Publish a short story or essay
• Walk 10,000 steps per day
• Lose weight

I can't help but look at this and laugh.  Nothing will kill the joy of travel faster than a list filled with self-created pressure and obligation. 

On my new to-do list?  More goat kisses!

Don't get me wrong,  There is nothing wrong with making lists and setting goals.  It's a great tool and seat-of-the-pants-kick that many of us need to get anything done.  

But this list had nothing to do with that.  A year ago, I was a person who couldn't stand the thought of this time not 'counting' for something.  I feared if I didn't 'achieve' something, it would be a waste.

Over a year later, I know that giving myself permission to just 'be' has resulted in more happiness than crossing off my 'to-do' list.  I haven't given up on lists and goals completely, but these days, they are far more simple and internally focused.  

At the top of the list?  Practicing presence and being in the moment.  

Courage in the Face of Uncertainty

On the upper trail of Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan, China

Expect anything worthwhile to take a long time.  

-Debbie Millman

The biggest lesson I've learned is that just because you seek something, it doesn't mean it wants to be found.  At least, not immediately.  While I have unlinked myself from work-as-identity, I still haven't discovered some grand life purpose or even what I will do when I stop traveling.**  I have had a lot of wonderful experiences and gained a great deal of knowledge, but that doesn't necessarily translate into wisdom.  It's an ongoing and dynamic process, and it won't just happen overnight.

I've had trickles of wisdom after being exposed to so many different things.  A drop here, a drop there and eventually they do add up.  I'm more grateful, hopeful and joyful, but still working on patience and being judgmental.  In the meantime, the best I can do is keep my eyes open to the surprises right in front of me.  

Success!  Reaching the bottom of Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan, China.

I'd like to leave you with something that intuitively, we all know, but is a daily affirmation that has kept me moving forward many days.

Choose your path and be proud of it.  It's your journey and no one else can walk it.  

Thanks for reading!

*Minimalism has been much maligned lately as a rich hipster movement to buy fewer, yet relatively expensive things.  I get where they are coming from and would like to stress that I'm not espousing a pretentious holier-than-thou attitude.  I'm only pointing out that living with the bare minimum has helped open me up to new experiences in a deeper way.  

**The answer to 'When will you be done?' is 'I don't know!'  We expect to be on the road for at least another 10 months and perhaps longer if we start to earn income from a couple of web ventures.  

Trekking Mongolia: Tips & Advice For the Best Tour Experience

Let's see, where were we? Ah, yes, Mongolia.  

I recently told the story of our 28 hour train journey from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar in a sandstorm and also posted a video recapping the best of our nine day trek across the central Mongolian steppe.  While getting there was less than ideal, hopefully the video showed that the time we spent in Mongolia was not just a highlight of this trip, but of my life.  

Such a life-changing experience has inspired me to share my best tips on how to turn a guaranteed fantastic trip into something beyond your wildest dreams.

Why Mongolia?

Stunning views you won't tire of seeing

First, I can't stress enough how strongly I recommend a trip to Mongolia.  From the Gobi desert in the south to the vast steppe in the center to the lush forests and rugged Altai mountains of the west, the diversity and beauty of the landscape alone make it worth the trip.  Combine this with super friendly folks, who are genuinely interested in sharing their world-famous heritage, and Mongolia becomes the stuff of unforgettable vacations.  

Feel like a hike up to a mountain top monastery?  

My trusty walking stick I found on the trail

Not convinced?  If you are a traveler, I'm certain you will enjoy Mongolia especially if you are any one of the following types:

Mongolian horses are small, but strong

• Adventure Buff.  Do you love hiking, camping, kayaking, horse riding, etc?  Mongolia has enough to satisfy even the most rugged travel aficionado. 
• Animal Lover.  Missed your calling as a veterinarian?  If you want to get up close and personal with goats, sheep, camels, yaks, dogs and even wild horses, look no further.  For maximum cuddling opportunities, visit in May when all the new babies make their appearance.
• Off-The-Beaten-Path Seeker.  Looking for a place far from hordes of tourists or craving something authentic and completely different?  Consider Mongolia ground zero.
• Culture Fan.  Do you enjoy learning how people in other countries live?  Got a thing for history or Buddhist temples?  Bingo.

Buddhist temples/monasteries are flourishing after suppression during the Communist era

Perry and I are a little bit of all four, which is a big reason Mongolia resonated with us so strongly.  I wanted something a little wild with plenty of activity balanced with an insider look at a unique culture.  Perry was keen to cross 'sleep in a yurt' (aka ger) off his bucket list.  In addition, we both have had Mongolia on our minds ever since we listened to the outstanding Hardcore History podcast series Wrath of the Khans.  

We had many reasons to go and I suspect you will have your own as well. 

Tip #1:  How to Pick a Tour Company?

It's not impossible to travel independently, but at the very least you will need a driver to help you reach destinations with difficult terrain.  In my opinion, a guide is worth the cost because this isn't a 'city break' type of trip, so going deep into the countryside and connecting with local people and places is essential.  While I can't speak about tour operators other the than one we used, I have spoken with fellow trekkers and perused reviews in an attempt to glean insights on how to choose.  

I would start with determining the type of trek and duration.  Do you want more mountain trekking or have you always wanted to ride a camel in the desert?  We focused on the central steppe to experience the life of a nomadic family living in a yurt and were lucky enough to find a tour that also got us fairly close to the northern Gobi, allowing for a thrilling camel ride.  

Bactrian camels are strange and wonderful animals!

Our tour lasted nine days, although due to the size of the country and lack of comprehensive highway system, many people go for 14 or 21 days.  With more time (and money!), you can have an in-depth visit to the Gobi or visit the western Altai mountains where they famously hunt with Golden Eagles.  There are tours that focus on adventure sports and others feature more historical landmarks.

Golden Eagles are trained for hunting in western Mongolia

Tours span all price ranges so it's possible to take a weekend tour for a couple hundred dollars all the way up to a two week trek for a couple thousand.  Prices can vary quite a bit so check reviews before you book.  My advice is that I would be wary of the cheapest company but that doesn't mean you need to go with the most expensive option, either.  

Sunset after a warm day on the steppe.  We drove on a road like this through a volcanic rock field for two hours.

One popular way to book a tour is through a guesthouse or hostel in Ulaanbaatar.  Our Swedish friends Bob and Johanna booked a 14 day tour through Sunpath Hostel and found the price affordable and the tour to be very good.

In the end, we went with Goyo Travel for several reasons.  [Note: I did not receive any compensation from Goyo for the following comments!]

1. They had the type of tour and dates we were interested in.
2. They helped us find a shared tour with two other people which reduced our cost and exponentially increased our fun.  Thanks Lily and Kwok, we miss you guys!!  Top Tip: I highly recommend going with a small group, even if it's someone you just met at hostel in UB.  They are probably like-minded people such as yourself so go for it!
3. Glowing reviews. The folks at Goyo are well-organized and have excellent customer service.
4. They offered what we perceived to be more creature comforts (ger camps with showers for two of our nine nights, tea/coffee making facilities on board the tour van, etc.)

Our guide Jack (left) and driver Monkhoo (right) in front of Mongolia's parliament 

Tip #2:  Mentally Prepare Yourself:  Outhouses, No Showers and Hard Beds

This will not be luxurious travel and the sooner you put yourself in that mindset, the better.  I realize this headline might seem horrifying, but it's not meant to scare you off.  If you mentally frame things that might not be 100% comfortable as part of an exciting adventure, they won't seem nearly as bad.  I viewed the lack of niceties as part of the authenticity (Genghis Khan didn't use a flush toilet out on the steppe after all!) and simply expected it to be rough all the time, which it wasn't.  You can imagine my delight the first time our driver served french press coffee in the morning or when I had a surprisingly decent hot shower at a Ger camp.

Home on the range, a ger!

Dinner al fresco with Jack, Lily and Kwok

Sometimes, expecting the worst makes everything that much better. 

Oh, and the food was WAY better than I had anticipated.  I think they ask the hosts to avoid offal (internal organs, intestines, etc) and such which was nice.  If you enjoy meat, particularly lamb, you will do well in Mongolia.  We had beef, yak, goat and mutton in a variety of dishes, including soup, stir fried noodles, and Khorkhog, a dish barbecued with rocks collected from the river and heated in the animal dung fired stove.  

One additional note about the food.  It's pretty low fiber with very little produce except for a few root vegetables and a bit of fruit our tour operator packed in our goodie box.  I was lucky that my fellow tour companions happened to be doctors who packed single serve daily fiber supplements (aka Metamucil) which helped keep things, um, real.  Something to consider for your own pack list.

Khorkhog

Tip #3:  Packing Essentials Are ESSENTIAL

I say this as our tour operator provided a list of what to bring, and being the minimalist packer that I am, I thought they were more like 'nice-to-haves'.  

Velvety-looking grass carpets much of Mongolia

WRONG!  Learn from my mistakes and be sure to include the following:

• Layers/Appropriate Clothing.  Crikey, the weather here is as variable as it gets.  We arrived to 32F (0C) daytime temps with several nights dipping into the teens, requiring our hosts to build a fire in our yurt's stove in the middle of the night.  Our last day was 90F (32C) and we sweltered as we toured one last monastery.  We experienced a sandstorm and also had evenings that were so perfectly still, you could hear a cow moo from miles away.  Finally, ladies, I recommend you bring only big girl briefs, as thong underwear will prove to be useless and potentially, um, damaging as I discovered after our three hour camel ride.  Ouch.
• Headlamp.  I saw this on our checklist and thought 'I can just use my iPhone' until my first trip to the outhouse in the dark.  One, the light doesn't penetrate the black hole-esque darkness in Mongolia, and two, holding an expensive iPhone while balancing, pants down, over a hole in the floor that drops 15 feet into human excrement is the opposite of a good idea.  
• Wet Wipes and Toilet Paper.  While most treks will provide these items, I found I used them so much that I not only exhausted their supply but my small backup supply as well.  Wet wipes are your 'shower' and trekking isn't like a day at the office.  You are going to be outside around animals and hiking a lot, and you will be sweaty and dirty as a result.  This is not the time to test how much dirt one wet wipe can absorb.  As far as toilet paper, an outhouse isn't the place to practice your reduced paper wiping strategy.  Bring lots, you will use it.  

Your toilet, madam.

Tip #4:   Get Out of UB Sooner Rather Than Later

Ulaanbaatar (UB), Mongolia's capital city (home to half the country's population) has a few places to visit, so don't skip it altogether, but you won't need more than a day or two to hit up the highlights- a couple hours at the excellent National Museum of Mongolia, a poke around Gandan Monastery, an evening performance by the Tumen-Ekh Folk Song & Dance Ensemble capped off by a look inside the State Department Store ought to be sufficient.

The countryside is where cuteness lives

No disrespect to UB, but it's just not a place you want to linger.  Mongolia's appeal lies in the countryside, so hop to it as quickly as possible.

Tip #5:  What to Bring for Host Gifts?

Bor is 76 years old and still riding a horse like a boss

There's nothing like breaking the ice with a gift.  

And when you face your host for the first time, presenting them with a gift you are proud of will make the minor effort of seeking out suitable gifts very much worth it.

In Mongolia, hospitality is taken seriously.  You will find your hosts consistently go above and beyond to make your stay comfortable and meaningful.  One of our hosts always had a smile and hot cup of tea or coffee ready for us and also made sure we tried on traditional Mongolian robes for a special photo op.  

Baadai and Chadrabal were excellent hosts (note the Yankee hat Baadai is sporting)

While I wasn't embarrassed by the tin of butter cookies and jar of jam I presented, I did wish that I was able to offer something a bit more personal.  Food is always a great idea and something unique and special from your hometown (BBQ sauce, chocolate, etc) will be memorable.  After seeing one host with a Yankees ball cap, I realized some Minnesota Twins gear would have been a great idea.  

I also suggest you ask for the ages of the hosts' children to ensure you procure age appropriate gifts, but bear in mind that most nomadic families send their older kids to school in the city, so unless you are there in the peak of summer when school is out, you likely won't see them which makes providing a gift unnecessary.  

The child of a host shows off her baby goat

Tip #6:  Prepare For Mind-Blowing Moments

Land of the Eternal Blue Sky

While I had too many to count, my favorite was one clear night when I stepped outside our yurt for a quick peek at the stars and ended up staring intensely at the heavens for a long time.  Instead of the usual array of stars, I witnessed a never-before-seen night sky filled with so many twinkling lights, they were visible all the way to the ground because there was zero light pollution.  

It was like standing in a planetarium.  Or being on another planet.

That's Mongolia.

Not the night in question, but it is the only night photo I have!

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked:  My Best Moments in Japan