What I Packed For A Six Month Trip to Asia

Well, here we are again.  

It seems like I just wrote my last 'what I packed' article, but in reality, it was March.  Eleven months, and 25 European countries later, we are gearing up for our next great adventure: ASIA.

Embedded somewhere in my DNA (or a mutation courtesy of 20 years of cube dwelling), I've still got that drive for continuous self-improvement.  I'm determined to pack even better and lighter than before as I've learned the hard way what it means to carry too much stuff.  Hot, sweaty, painful.

I'm leaving behind any hint of excess, including cute clothes and 'just in case' items.  My shoulders are grateful.

That's not to say I didn't get some things right the first go-around.  There were winners in my European travels (Patagonia pullover, REI vest, long sleeve tunic) that also made the cut for Asia, however anything that was deemed heavy, dressy or even slightly uncomfortable got the boot.  As much as I tried to maintain a certain level of cuteness/chicness on the road for Europe's sake, the focus for Asia is to travel lightly and comfortably.

Here's a rundown on everything in my pack, with some extra detail on a few items.  

CLOTHES

7 underwear, 2 bras, 5 socks, 2 tanks, 3 t-shirts, 1 short sleeve silk blouse, 1 long sleeve tunic, 2 long sleeve wool pullovers, 1 pants, 2 shorts, 1 capri workout pants, 1 sports bra, 1 swimsuit, 2 pajama bottoms, 1 nightie, 1 scarf/beach sarong, 1 puffer vest, 1 rain jacket, 1 pair flip flops (not shown), 1 pair hiking shoes (not shown), 1 visor (not shown)

While we are working our way north and long sleeves will eventually be needed, my wardrobe clearly reflects the heat we will be experiencing during the first leg of our trip in Thailand.  

I've ditched my black travel dress, skinny jeans, heavy travel pants and multiple long sleeves in favor of shorts and t-shirts.  Also, I've also traded in my flats, Birkenstocks and super light Nike Air sneakers for heavy duty walking shoes and flip flops.  Unfortunately, my inner fashionista has prevented me from pulling the trigger on a pair of much needed hiking sandals, but I'm hopeful that the jungle-like conditions of SE Asia will throw something my way shortly.

There are a few new items in my pack that I want to elaborate on a bit.  

KONTRA SHORTS BY KUHL

I have never been so excited to hike in a hot, humid climate in my life, and that's because I've got a proper pair of shorts!  I must have tried on fifteen pairs last year and ended up settling for golf shorts, which were ok, but I always felt a bit too preppy.  This time, I hit the jackpot on the first try.  Heavy-duty fabric, yet lightweight and breathable, these shorts also roll down to capri length for maximum versatility.

GET GOING PANT BY LUCY

The second I tried these on, I knew my Prana Halle pants would not be making it to Asia.  Lucy's Get Going pant hit the trifecta for this traveler as they are a) light enough for the heat, b) sturdy enough for hiking and c) comfortable enough for lounging.  Cue the singing angels.

REI CO-OP MERINO MID-WEIGHT HALF ZIP BASE LAYER TOP 

Perry is a huge fan of wool as a layering piece in all types of weather, but I was skeptical.  Wool = cold weather, right?  Turns out keeping dry also helps keep you cool and wool's moisture wicking properties do it exceptionally well.  Throw in the stink resistance of natural fiber, a sleek shape and nice color, and I predict I will wear this top out before I hit US soil again.

VANESSA T-SHIRT BY ABLY

I read about this shirt on another travel blog and was intrigued.  Made with Filium technology, the company claims it will resist sweat and stink like nothing else.  Perry did a trial run with his shirt and after five days straight days of wear, including a couple trips to the gym, it was still 'acceptable.'  I'll have to get back to you on the stink test, but at the very least, it has a flattering shape and nice color.

ZOOM ALL OUT BY NIKE

After wearing out two pairs of Nike Free 5.0s in Europe, I knew I needed something more durable for Asia.  In reading quite a few travel blogs, I was nearly ready for a pair of Merrell hiking shoes, the standard for long term travelers, but not exactly, 'good looking'.  Then, I came across the Nike Zoom.  Infinitely more sturdy than the Free, yet decent looking, I'm ready for both trekking, but won't be embarrassed to be seen at a mall.

CO-OP RAIN JACKET BY REI

It's not cute, but it is waterproof, breathable and ready to serve as a layering piece for warmth when needed.  Practicality rules.

TOILETRIES

Deodorant, foot scrubber, razor, toothpaste, floss, toothbrush, Beautycounter sunscreen stick, Aveeno daily moisturizer, flatiron, brush, L'Occitane hand cream, CC leave-in hair treatment, Beautycounter shampoo/conditioner, shower cap, shine serum, Beautycounter charcoal cleansing bar, hair clip, comb, makeup remover pads, Obagi tretinoin and lightener, hair elastic/headband

I cut back a little, but not by much.

What I gave up in bulk with clothes, I retained with toiletries and most of my favorites are still around, plus a few new items, like a foot scrubber.  My poor feet take a beating with all this walking and a little bit of preventative scrubbing in the shower at night followed by an application of L'Occitane hand cream has kept things from getting too scary to wear flip flops.  

I did, however, lessen the number of liquids I carry with some soon-to-be new favorites.  One is a pack of makeup remover pads vs. carrying a bottle of the stuff and cotton balls.  I use the Tesco brand and they only cost 1 pound! 

The rest of the new non-liquid pieces are Beautycounter products courtesy of my friend Denise.  She is a consultant for Beautycounter, the non-toxic skin care and makeup company, and provided me with a charcoal cleansing bar, stick of sunscreen, pot of cleansing balm (multitasks as a makeup remover, cleanser and moisturizer) and travel sized shampoo and conditioner.  I gave some samples a try before we left (the charcoal products are particularly awesome!) and so far, so good.  Click here for more info on Beautycounter and a big thanks to Denise for hooking me up!

MAKEUP

Tweezer, nail clipper, eyebrow powder, eyeshadow, highlighter, lip gloss, makeup brushes, pencil eyeliner (brown), liquid eyeliner (black), SPF lip balm, compact, perfume, blush brush, blush, primer, mascara

I've retained about the same amount of makeup as I did for Europe, although I suspect I won't be using as much in Asia with more focus on outdoor activities such as hiking rather than city activities like museums and cafe sitting.  

The one super indulgent item I'm toting is a small bottle of perfume.  I had a travel size spritzer in Europe and it ran out after two weeks, forcing me to slink into drugstores and make up counters to covertly spray myself.  Turns out, I really enjoy perfume, even if I'm just wearing shorts and a t-shirt, so I'm making perfume a priority in my pack.  Did I really say I ditched all hints of excess?

ELECTRONICS/OFFICE

Folder with passport/currency/travel documents/cribbage board, Macbook Air 11 inch, cords/plugs, memory stick, pens, notebook, miscellaneous office supplies/first aid kit (black pouch), mini speaker, earbuds, iPhone 7 (not shown)

I intend to continue my labor of love writing about life on the road, plus, after testing the waters last year, will likely take on a few more consulting gigs during our travels through Asia.  This means some office gear is necessary.  Like my Macbook Air.  I love this laptop beyond reason and it's truly been one of the best purchases I have ever made.  So light, so sleek, so awesome.  Ok, I'll stop.

I crushed every last page in my previous notebook, with all my random list-making and Spanish lessons, so a new Miquelrius was in order.  I don't know what it is about these notebooks.  I've had them for years and just seeing it sitting on the coffee table of whatever apartment we are living in makes me happy.  

The one new item in my 'office' gear is a tiny Cribbage board.  We used an app on Perry's iPad to play in Europe, but there is something so satisfying about using real pegs that I decided to splurge and bring a board for those long train rides across Thailand, China, Mongolia and Japan.

FINAL COMMENTS

On the packing front, I've come a long way since I first loaded up my Tortuga for Europe last March.  I'm carrying and caring a whole lot less and it feels great!  I know many of you thought I packed lightly the last time I wrote about this, but just for reference, here is the photo of what went into last years' pack.  

March, 2016 packing

What a difference a year makes.

Actions & Words: A Week Volunteering In Spain

We have all heard the idiom advising that 'actions speak louder than words'.  It is generally believed that what someone does is more important than what someone says.

Often, that's the case, but I discovered recently just how important words can be.  

In early November, Perry and I spent a week volunteering at the Diverbo language program in La Alberca, Spain, where we (and twenty-three other English speakers from the USA, England, Wales, Ireland, Canada, Australia and South Africa) had the privilege of helping twenty-seven Spaniards improve their English.  It was something we had been looking forward to since we first began planning our trip, and it exceeded our expectations.

It wasn't just fun and games though, it was an intense week with a schedule that felt like work at times.  The days were packed with 1:1 conversations and group activities, while the nights were filled with Spanish-style partying.  I wasn't getting very much sleep, and in the midst of all this, I came down with a really bad cold.  Then, the U.S. presidential election outcome.

Despite these personal moments of feeling sick, tired and discouraged, it was one of the best weeks of my life.  

At the end of seven days, I found myself floating around in a euphoric state of love and gratitude-  the kind of high experienced when you start out doing something good for others, but, inevitably, you, the giver, becomes the receiver.

Loquacious Minds

The ultimate conversation starter... P&P at a wine tasting in La Alberca

Those who know me, even casually, are aware that I am talkative.  I've had the gift (curse?) of gab since I uttered my first word at eleven months of age.  My baby book says it was 'puppy'.

The past year has been an interesting experiment and before we left, I wondered how my verbose ways would fare on the road with only Perry as my constant chat companion.  Would I spontaneously combust without adequate outlets for my effusiveness?  Would Perry run screaming into the night from one too many voluble discussions?

Luckily, neither happened.  My verbal long-windedness has been greatly reduced but merely replaced by the expansive lot of words I crank out on this blog.  

While I enjoy writing, it will never fully take the place of talking.  Perry, with his enviable combination of high-brow intelligence and low-brow humor, has always been my preferred conversation partner, but there have been times that I have missed the spirited discussions I used to have with close friends.  Yes, there is Skype, but face to face is just different.

With Diverbo, I found the ideal volunteer activity to satisfy me.

Awakenings

Entrance to Abadia de los Templarios (Abbey of the Templars) resort 

Grounds of Abadia de los Templarios

We boarded a bus in Madrid for the three hour drive to La Alberca, located in Castille and Leon province, near Salamanca and the border of Portugal.  Advised to sit with a Spanish person and make introductions, I greeted a cheerful young lawyer from Malaga who was there to fine-tune her English for her job.  That first visit was a light-hearted exchange about travel and work, punctuated by bursts of laughter.  In the course of an hour, we were having the easy conversation of old friends, complete with inside jokes.

After a quick stop for coffee at the midway point, I then sat with a successful entrepreneur with an adventurous spirit and a penchant for philosophy.  He joined the program just a few days prior, after a chance meeting with a friend at a coffee shop who pointedly challenged the depth of his English proficiency.  He indulged my incessant curiosity about Spain's unique regional vs. national dynamic.  It was like having my own personal history teacher and tour guide rolled into one.

In a three hour bus ride, I knew this program was about to make up for conversational lost time. 

The Best Medicine

Guzzling wine from a pouch is not the classiest, but it is tradition 

I'm sure you have heard how laughter has a way of transcending language and breaking down barriers.  But, in Spain, it is the way of life.

The Spanish approach to problem solving is with humor, and it's one of the main reasons I love the the country and people.  They know how to diffuse a tense situation with a self-deprecating comment or a cheeky joke and this group delivered in spades.  

There were equal parts tongue-in-cheek inside jokes (Lights of Cuenca, anyone?) as well as bawdy, slapstick humor during our nightly stage performances made funnier by starring normally serious people.   

However, it was during one-on-ones that I had the biggest laughs.  I admit I was initially drawn to the funny people as I find it easy to bond with the socially confident types.  There were moments it felt like a night at the comedy club and my sides ached from laughing so hard, especially one evening when I had three back-to-back 1:1's where we revealed our (minor) brushes with the law.  

We'll save those stories for another day.

Go Deep

Learning to slice Iberico ham from the master.  You can tell by his face how well I did!

But not all funny types are laugh-out-loud hilarious.  I found conversation partners that finely sliced their intellectual commentary with a razor sharp wit that left me gobsmacked, especially considering they had to mentally translate from Spanish to English!  I can barely do it in my own native tongue.

There were definitely a lot of big thinkers in the group and I looked forward to my one-on-one talks for a daily boost of knowledge.  On topics as diverse as travel, geography, politics, philosophy and wine, I was drinking from a firehose of new thoughts and ideas.

With a week together, it didn't take long to get beyond the superficial 'tell me what you do' type-questions and many sessions took a profound direction.  While there was definitely a lot of humorous commentary, it was often mixed with touching revelations.  Most people didn't know another soul there, and I found it incredibly brave that someone would leave their family for a week just to improve their English.  Several people had endured incredible adversity to be there and their stories touched me deeply. 

I was amazed at both the openness of the language as well as the deepness of listening.  What is it about the presence of strangers that leads to such honest conversation?   

In the end, I think we all just want to be heard, whatever the language.

Family Ties

Group outing to village of La Alberca

In chemistry and in relationships, opposites attract.  And that same yin and yang brought us together at the language camp, too, from the serious work during the day to the light-hearted partying at night.

It seems unlikely that in a room with so much diversity of heritage, personality, and ideology that we could become so close, so quickly.  Sure, the mutual commitment to help each other have a successful week was a factor.  So were the wine-fueled outings like our day trip to the village of La Alberca. 

But, as strange as it sounds, I think simply spending time with strangers made the biggest difference.  There is a trust that stems from the company of those who do not hold preconceived notions of who we are.  Our words stand on their own, unsullied by past mistakes and personal labels.  

Perry and I have had to learn new ways of communicating over these past months.  Frequently, gestures and a few broken words of the local language were needed, but we always got the job done.  Our week volunteering in Spain, however, showed me how fast strangers can become family when we are heard and understood.   

Actions speak loudly, but words can quietly change the world.

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: What We Ate in Europe

Food is at the heart of some of our best memories during the nine months we spent in Europe.  While we often cooked at 'home' to keep costs in check, we didn't deprive ourselves of experiencing the local cuisine, and in keeping with the awards season, we've got the winners...and the losers.

THE GOOD

Picking the best restaurants during our travels was a tough decision, but isn't everything in life, really?

Best Restaurant | Rataskaevu 16, Tallinn, Estonia

I wrote about our magical encounter at Rataskaevu 16 in a blog post back in May and it still holds the top spot for best restaurant we visited.  The pumpkin soup, salad with fried Baltic herring and braised elk roast are amazing, but it is the homemade bread that made our experience otherworldly.

What truly makes it number one on my list, however, are the friendly staff.  Thanks Jonas!

Runner-Up #1 | Apetit, Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

I'm still dreaming about the meal we ate here.  I take Trip Advisor reviews with a grain of salt, but in this case, the number one position is well-deserved.  In addition, it was just around the corner from where we were staying.  

There are no menus, rather, the chef prepares whatever is fresh, in season, and on hand that day.  We started with the freshest salad I've ever had, followed by a large platter with two entrees that we shared:  a melt-in-your-mouth beef tenderloin with perfectly roasted potatoes, and tuna steak accompanied by a heavenly teriyaki rice.  

The cost of this meal was less than we spent recently during a trip to Panera.  Go, immediately, but be sure and secure a reservation as there are only seven tables!

Runner-Up #2 | Hisa Pod Gradom, Ljubljana, Slovenia

We ate the three course lunch at this gem of a restaurant nearly every day we were in Ljubljana.  That's because not only was the food first rate, it was a bargain at only €7.90.  Even with a glass of delicious Slovenian Rosé, it was still under €10!!  Don't miss this great place at the bottom of Castle Hill near the funicular.

The Finalists

They didn't make the top three, but I highly recommend you eat/drink the following when in town.

Time to fika

• Coffee & Kanelbullar at Fabrique Boulangerie in Stockholm, Sweden
• Salmon soup and reindeer meatballs on the waterfront in Helsinki, Finland

Salmon soup, Helsinki style

• Cevapi and somun bread at Konoba Taurus in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
• Kebabs and shopska salad at Grazhdanski Klubb in Plovdiv, Bulgaria
• Franceshina sandwich and a port tonic at Piolho Cafe in Porto, Portugal
• Apple strudel and gluhwein at Kroll Strudel Cafe in Innsbruck, Austria
• Sausage and beer at Hofbrauhaus in Munich, Germany
• Fabada Asturiana and cider in Gijon, Spain

THE BAD

Luckily, we didn't have a lot of bad food on the road.  Surly service?  Definitely (Trieste, I'm looking at you).  However, as far as terrible food goes, only a couple of meals stand out.

Worst Restaurant | Restaurant East Village, Bran, Romania

I wrote about our visit to Dracula's Castle which was an awful tourist trap and complete waste of time.   In addition to the forgettable experience in the castle, we had the worst food just outside it, too. 

Cue the scene.  

• Hot, steamy day.
• Sticky tables.
• Flies.  

A salad sounded refreshing but not when the vegetables are room temperature, wilted and drowning in olive oil.  That's what we had.

A close second was a meal I had in nearby Brasov.  We had a great experience our first visit, but decided to return that night for dinner, hoping to forget our Bran disaster.  Per the menu, I ordered a 'Salmon Salad'.  The description stated 'with apples and carrots' to which I have no objections, but this is what I imagined I would be served.

And here is what was set in front of me... except all the components were sectioned like a pie chart and served in a bowl.  I realize it doesn't look like the worst thing in the world, but it's sort of like taking a sip of a beverage and realizing it tastes nothing like you thought it would.

Apparently 'Salmon Salad' in Romania is a huge haystack of shredded carrots and apples topped with a small amount of smoked salmon and a dollop of mayo.  Ick.

Then, there were the cockles I ate at a beer festival in Peterborough, UK.  Sorry, Roger, but those puppies are nasty!

Mary, Mary quite contrary, how does your garden grow?  With silver bells and cockle shells and...YUCK, people actually eat these things and like them?!?

But the worst has to be Herring Salad with Red Beets, which I tried in Norway.  Yeah, you read correctly.  A cold, creamy salad with fish and beets.  I'm gagging just typing this.  

Example from Germany

THE UGLY

Octopus is the regional dish of Galicia, Spain.  However, pulpo is not served like calamari, all battered and fried, hiding the evidence of what the creature was before death.  Octopus dishes in Galicia have no such pretense.  

After a day of touring Santiago de Compostela, we sat in Gloria's (our Airbnb host) kitchen to chat while she prepared dinner.  After a few minutes, she excused herself to change and when she did, I saw exactly what was being served, sitting on the counter in a bowl.

Yep, an octopus.  Whole and raw.

My initial reaction was horror, but then curiosity took over.  I began inspecting it closely, but quickly, before my host returned and saw me poking at the star of her supper.  Back in our room, I wondered how you would even cook such a thing, so I pulled a recipe off the web.  The steps have been reduced for purposes of humor and brevity.

Pulpo a la Gallega

1. It is important to soften the octopus before you cook it. At the island of Ons, I have seen how they used to do this the traditional way by repeatedly hitting the octopus against a rock. Lucky for us, we don’t have to do this, if you freeze it, you will get a very similar effect. So either buy the octopus fresh and freeze it, or buy it already frozen.
2. Fill a large pot (the largest one you have) with water, add a whole peeled onion, and bring to a boil (you don’t need to add salt; the salt in this dish will be added at the end). When the water starts boiling, grab the octopus by the head and “scare” it. This technique consists in dipping the octopus 3 or 4 times in the boiling water. The purpose of doing this is so it stiffens/contracts, and the skin doesn’t break during the cooking process.
3. Slice the octopus legs with scissors (about ½ of an inch wide slices) and cut the head into small pieces. Add sea salt, sprinkle the paprika and add a splash of olive oil.

Whack it against a rock?  'Scare' it by dipping into boiling water?  Then cut the head into pieces? Sounds like a Stephen King novel sprinkled with salt and paprika. 

I still love ya, Galicia!

Thanks for reading!  Next time on Gobsmacked:  Europe on Foot:  The Best Places to Go Walking