National Library in Sofia and Saints Cyril & Methodius, inventors of the Cyrillic alphabet

Six Reasons to Visit Bulgaria

October 23, 2016

Perry and I spent the majority of August in Bulgaria and came to love it so much, we felt like unofficial ambassadors by the time we left.

Despite being part of Eastern Europe, still recovering from a Communist hangover of muted cultural expression and developing economic infrastructure, Bulgaria stands out.

There is a lot to like when it comes to the 16th largest country in Europe and here is a run down of my six favorite reasons.

1. HISTORY

Even this history nerd was completely wowed by the historical significance of Bulgaria and how the three cities we visited (Sofia, Plovdiv and Varna) felt like living museums with ancient sites out in the open for the public to enjoy. While Sofia and Varna have outstanding past in their own right, Plovdiv is the true elder statesman-- with a 4,100 year history, it is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe.

In ancient times, Bulgaria was known as Thrace, and its inhabitants were peers of the Greeks. Thracians were known for their gold work and wine making abilities which makes them my kind of people. Some famous Thracians include Spartacus and Meda of Odessa (ancient Varna), wife of Phillip II, and stepmom of Alexander the Great.

In Varna's history museum, the oldest gold jewelry in the world is on display. Uncovered in a nearby necropolis, one royal leader was buried adorned with gold weapons, jewelry and even a penis sheath! They have also discovered evidence of just how much Thracians loved wine, with carvings referencing a cult of the Greek god Dionysus.

The Roman era is also on magnificent display. Sofia (known as Serdika in those days) combines Roman ruins with the flavor of the Ottoman era, literally, because the resourceful Bulgarians (and Turks) erected buildings and mosques using the remains of Roman structures.

But Plovdiv outshines them all in the history department. Philippopolis, as it was known back in the day, was named after Philip II of Macedon and that era has been cleverly integrated into the modern, everyday life of the city. From the cafes and parks overlooking the Roman stadium to the Roman theatre that is used regularly for concerts and plays, who needs new when the old will do?

Once was a church, now is a mosque, Old Town Plovdiv

Thracian ruins on the hill of Nebet Tepe with three of the Plovdiv's Seven Hills in the background

If you are a history fan like me, it's the biggest reason to put it on your list.

2. BEAUTIFUL SPACES

Coming from Bucharest, a city with infrastructure deficiencies, Sofia offered a sharp contrast with lots of modern high rises, clean streets and a brand new train station mixing in with its pretty parks and cultural buildings (theaters, libraries, churches).

Much older than Sofia, Plovdiv's beauty is more rustic up close. However, if you climb one of the seven hills that surround the city, you are rewarded with lovely scenic views. The Old Town's cobble streets and colorful wooden buildings make for pleasant walking.

Top of Nebet Tepe with the hills of Plovdiv in the background

Varna has the scenic advantage of being on the Black Sea, but not content to rest on its laurels, the city has also created beautiful parks and seafront walking trails to allow residents and visitors alike to enjoy the geography to its fullest extent.

3. OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

From waterfalls to caves, mountains and the sea, Bulgaria's natural landscape offers a multitude of activities to keep any rugged adventurer happy.

In Sofia, we took a cable car to a point just under the summit of Vitosha Mountain where we climbed to the peak using a steep and challenging short cut. We took in the amazing views while we ate our lunch and decided to walk the flatter, but longer route back down which was relaxing and filled with pretty fields of flowers, streams and even a few paragliders.

Summit of Mt. Vitosha with Sofia in the background

Vitosha also houses Vitosha Nature Park with plenty of hiking trails and the spectacular Boyana Waterfall.

In Plovdiv, the Seven Hills that dot the city provide decent hiking options.

Located on the Black Sea, Varna has great aquatic activities like sailing and swimming. Or, you could just relax on the sandy beaches.

4. DELICIOUS FOOD & WINE

Did I mention it's really healthy too? If salad and meat is your low-carb meal of choice, get thee forthwith to Bulgaria.

Bulgarians start every meal with salad, and my favorite was the Shopska-- always a huge portion of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, peppers and shredded sirene, a salty sheep's cheese similar to feta. It is topped with a light dressing of olive oil, vinegar and parsley.

Since we visited in the peak of summer, the vegetables were always straight-from-the-garden fresh, but it is the cheese that I still can't forget. So delicious, I'm drooling just thinking about it. Whether it was made myself or ordered it in a restaurant, I ate Shopska salad every day in Bulgaria!

Post salad, they bring on the grilled meat where the combination of cultures is very much at play. A common platter includes sausages, kofta (a type of meatball) and Shish kebab, all of which can be made from either lamb, beef, pork or chicken.

If you aren't going low carb, feel free to indulge in the fresh pita bread which is plentiful and delicious.

Bulgaria shares a number of cuisines with the Middle East and Greece including burek (thin flaky dough, filled with cheese or meat) and moussaka (eggplant casserole). Desserts and sweets aren't as common, but you do see baklava (my fave) and halva, a fudge-like confection made from nut or seed butters like sesame (tahini).

Thracians drank Mavrud from gold vessels like this.

Last, but not least, the wine in Bulgaria is fantastic. They are famous for Mavrud, a dark ruby varietal that was consumed during Thracian times. Try the plummy goodness of Vinica or Zagreus brands. Soli is a Bordeaux-like red and I recommend one by Eduardo Miroglio. But since I was there during the steamy summer, I mostly consumed chilled Rose, because at $2/glass, why the hell not? If you are interested in trying these, here is a link for a Bulgarian wine importer in the US.

5. UNIQUE CULTURE & FRIENDLY PEOPLE

Located in the Balkans, and at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, Bulgaria has a unique confluence of cultures. Ancient Greek and Roman influence ultimately fused with the local Thracian and Slavic Bulgar peoples between 500 and 1300 AD until the area fell under the rule of the Ottomans (Turks) for over 500 years (1300's-1878). The most recent culture to leave an imprint on Bulgaria are the Russians, who liberated the Bulgarians from the Turks in 1878.

While you can see and taste these influences everywhere, the Bulgarians definitely have their own unique culture that they are very much trying to promote and make up for lost time.

In addition to the great cuisine, this influence can be spotted in art and architecture. Everywhere we went, there were murals, frescoes and sculptures.

Fortunately, many Bulgarians speak English, which is great because the Bulgarian language is not easy to speak. Although we did get the hang of reading it after spending a week in Belgrade, Serbia (also users of Cyrillic) before our three weeks in Bulgaria.

In fact, Bulgarians gave the world the Cyrillic alphabet, developed in the First Bulgarian Empire in the 9th century AD by Slav monk brothers Cyril and Methodius. Don't make the mistake of asking Bulgarians why they use the 'Russian' alphabet!

Nevertheless, it was Bulgaria's traditional music that offered one of the most unexpected and memorable nights on the road.

We had been walking around Plovdiv for hours and came across the Roman Theatre just as the sun was setting. It was filled with people waiting for a performance to start and we decided to sit down since it was free. Little did we know, we had accidentally happened upon the International Folk Festival where we witnessed performances by musicians and dancers dressed in national costume from Bulgaria, Romania, Greece, Serbia, Hungary and Mexico.

They were all excellent, but the hometown crew saved the best for last. The crowd went wild.

Bulgarian folk music is a hugely popular and extensively practiced art that fuses Eastern and Western influences. The music has a distinctive sound and uses a wide range of traditional instruments including the gadulka, gaida, kaval and tupan! Folk dancers wearing the national costume dance to the music, a combination of fast and slow beats. Many Bulgarian dances are line dances, where they dance in a straight or curved line, holding hands.

Bulgarian folk dancers in national costume

The biggest surprise was how well we were treated by the friendly and English speaking Bulgarian people! From the waitstaff at restaurants (especially Happy Grill), to the stylist that colored my hair, to the supermarket cashier that remembered I had left behind my credit card, we were the recipients of smiles and a great deal of kindness.

But what really stands out in terms of people experiences were our outstanding Airbnb hosts, especially the lovely Irina in Varna. We met her out for tea and cake one night so she could tell us about her days working with Cirque du Soleil. We had such a great visit, we met for drinks on the beach a few days later. From travel stories to our favorite podcasts, our conversations with Irina rank up there amongst our favorite experiences on the road.

6. AFFORDABLE

We lived better in Bulgaria than we did in any other country at the lowest cost. Yes, you read that right. We stayed in the nicest apartments in Sofia, Plovdiv and Varna, ate out practically every meal and pursued countless tourist activities for a mere $83/day for two of us.

Even if you wanted to splurge on a luxury hotel or resort, you would still pay less than just about anywhere else in Europe. But why, when you can live like a local and have a grand time with money to spare?

Conclusion

We were completely charmed by all that Bulgaria has to offer and surely it will only grow in popularity as a tourist destination. In my opinion, now is the time to go as it has just the right amount of infrastructure to make travel comfortable while still being incredibly affordable.

Whether you are a history buff, wine lover, adventure junkie or relaxation seeker, you will find what you are looking for in Bulgaria. Throw in plenty of friendly English speakers and excellent food and Bulgaria is a must see on any budget travelers itinerary.

Forget Dracula, Brasov is the Transylvania You Want to See

October 15, 2016

After an underwhelming and overheated week in Bucharest, we were dying to escape to Brasov where we were promised the fresh, cool air of Transylvania would improve our image of Romania.

SPOILER ALERT: It did.

We enjoyed it so much, we wish we had skipped Bucharest altogether and given ourselves more time to visit places in the north like Cluj Napoca and Sibiu. Next time, I promise.

Brasov, a city of nearly 300,000, was founded by German Saxons on orders of Hungarian King Geza II in the 12th century. These craftsmen established industry and trade routes between Europe and the Ottoman Empire while the native Romanians laid the foundations for the country's cultural development. When the Saxons were driven out after WWII, they left their well-constructed Old Town which feels a bit like a movie set-- pretty to look at, but lacking the substance of the people that once worked within these walls.

Despite that glitch, the Romanians have not wasted the potential of this naturally beautiful city. Ringed by the Carpathian Mountains, Brasov is known for its Medieval walls and bastions, the Gothic-style Black Church and Piata Sfatului (town square) surrounded by colorful Baroque buildings.

The real star of Brasov, however, is Tampa Mountain and its majestic pines, which tower 960 meters (approximately 2700 feet) over the town square. Cementing its celebrity status, the city even installed a BRASOV sign in letters ala Hollywood at the top.

Vendors sell goods in the town square at the foot of Mount Tampa

After dropping our bags at our heavenly Airbnb (thanks, Florin!), we made our way down Strada Republicii (Republic Street) to Piata Sfatului.

We found the spirit of the Old Town to be cheerful and inviting. Yes, there are tourists, but it doesn't feel overly crowded. There are several historic sites nearby, including the White Tower and Black Church. Also adjacent to the Old Town is the historic German Prund-Schei with characteristic Saxon buildings and Catherine's Gate, the only original surviving gate from Medieval times.

Excited by the sight of the mountain, we dedicated Day Two to climb it. Our lunch tucked away in our packs, we headed to the foot of the mountain where the remains of Brasov Citadel Fortress stand.

The cable car departs for the top at the same point as the walking trail and we had fun waving at the passengers when we crossed under it as the trail zigs and zags switchback style to the top.

After an hour, we reached the top and were rewarded with outstanding views of both the town and the valley where it lies.

Because we had such a fabulous apartment, we spent a lot of time relaxing and checking out the local neighborhood. For more things to do nearby, there is a retirement home for about 80 brown bears, the Libearty Bear Sanctuary in Zarnesti which takes in mistreated bears from circuses and private homes. Sad fact: people used to go into the woods and capture bears for pets until the government made illegal in 2005. We did not make it, but have heard it's worth checking out if you go.

Food in Romania is very good and after all the exercise that day, we ate well that evening with a traditional Romanian dinner (bean soup starter with hearty portions of meat and potatoes for the main) at Bistro Millennium, just around the corner from our apartment. In the Old Town, we had mostly good experiences from coffee at uber-modern Hof Cafe, to enormous ice cream sundaes at Coffeol and an elegant dinner al fresco at Casa Albert.

We should have left well enough alone. Our stay in Brasov was nearly perfect in every way, until we made the mistake of visiting Bran Castle, aka Dracula's Castle.

I acknowledge there are probably worse ways to wile away a day, but the experience getting there only to find a horribly crowded tourist trap requiring Herculean patience was far more trouble than it was worth. You really must be a huge Dracula* aficionado to overlook the crush of people. I mean, if you have seen one castle, you have seen them all!!

While there are tour groups you can book, they are a bit spendy for what you get. It's only 35-40 minutes away so we figured the local bus would be perfectly acceptable. Ah, there is that naivete again! The bus 'station' where you catch the bus to Bran is just a parking lot with a couple of kiosks. There are no signs for a ticket office or timetables indicating where and when to get on a bus. Is it so much to ask that the term 'station' should at least have both of those basic amenities?

We started asking around and luckily, a young Romanian couple that spoke English helped us out. I've got so many pay-it-forward moments, my debts won't be full paid until the end of time.

Being on a local bus, I certainly didn't expect luxury, but at least windows that opened in 85F heat. Of all the days we chose to make this trip, it was the hottest of our week in Transylvania. Trying to take my mind off the sauna-like conditions, I looked around and noticed the man sitting behind us was carrying an enormous scythe. No, it wasn't the Grim Reaper, just a local farmer. Nothing to see here folks! Just a guy on a bus who looks like he's late for an execution.

At least the chill down my spine helped cool me in the heat.

Drenched in sweat, but finally off the bus we got our first view of the castle. To be sure, it's super impressive.

We queued for 30 minutes at the bottom of the hill to get into the grounds, which I'm inclined to believe is pretty fast for the middle of the week. The entrance fee is only $8, so not ridiculously expensive, but once we got to the castle entrance at the top of the hill, I knew we had made a terrible mistake. It was sheer chaos. There were simply WAY too many people for the size of the rooms and castle management does a poor job of roping off sections to prevent two-way traffic in hallways that fit one person at a time. The result is gridlock of LA magnitude.

I became claustrophobic in the first two minutes so that I hurried through as fast as I could- snapping a few random photos when there was a slight break in the action.

I can look at the photos now and see it is very pretty place, but after only five minutes, I needed a drink to forget all the sweaty stranger body contact. Once outside, we sat down at a restaurant in the town and ordered a couple of Greek salads which we hoped would be revive us, but instead, contained sad, wilted vegetables that matched my demeanor.

The whole experience was incredible depressing.

It was our last night, so we put the madness behind us as we sat on the deck of our apartment with a couple of Strongbow Ciders, our new summertime fave. We breathed in the silence and pine-scented mountain air while watching the Brasov sign light up as the sun set.

It was a view Dracula himself would approve.

For more photos of Brasov, check out the complete album here.

*Sorry to break it to you, but while the castle is named in Bram Stoker's book Dracula, there is no evidence Stoker knew anything about the actual place as there are several locations linked to the legend, including Poenari Castle and Hunyad Castle. Additionally, the original inspiration for Dracula, Vlad Tepes, 'The Impaler' didn't actually live there and may have just stayed overnight while passing through.

Thanks for reading! Next time on Gobsmacked: Beautiful Bulgaria.

How big is it?  Palace of the Parliament — How big is it? Palace of the Parliament

How The Grinch Toured Bucharest

October 9, 2016

I don't know about you, but doesn't flying in a turbo prop sound edgy and a bit dangerous, as though you might be traveling somewhere remote and forbidden? If I close my eyes, I can almost conjure up images of The English Patient and Out of Africa.

Unfortunately, there is little romance in flying Air Serbia to Bucharest. Yes, it was cheap and we got there quickly, but by the time we landed my ears were buzzing, my clothes smelled like fuel and I still haven't figured out what that sticky crap was that I sat in.

Inside Bucharest International Airport, things began to perk up. I was pleasantly surprised at how relatively modern and clean it was, and my hopes for this city of 2 million inhabitants were running high.

Mental note to self. Stop setting the bar so high.

It probably had no chance of living up to expectations. I had read that Bucharest strikes some Parisian-esque comparisons (it was known as 'Little Paris' between WWI and II) but what city can live up to the City of Light? Also, we had just come from Belgrade, a place that wowed me with its surprising sophistication and NYC-style neighborhoods. A little rough around the edges, but it was a culturally exciting city. Bucharest just had a 'times are tough' resignation with no gritty spirit.

So, it's not that I can't do rough, but this is Europe, so something has to balance it out. While Bucharest will not be my favorite city anytime soon, there are things to do and enjoy and I think it would make for an interesting (and inexpensive) city break weekend. Just don't spend a week like we did. If you have that kind of time, head up to Brasov and explore Transylvania.

I realize that is not a glowing introduction but I think plenty of people get a secret thrill from the seedy underbelly of life. If you do, then you are going to LOVE Bucharest.

We stayed on Strada Eforie near Old Town, which normally is a good call as you can be near the main sights and not waste a lot of time commuting. Bucharest's Old Town, in addition to being a popular tourist attraction itself, is near many other key sights including Revolution Plaza, Palace of the Parliament and Cismigiu Gardens.

However, the neighborhoods surrounding Old Town are a bit ragged, so just prepare yourself.

The Old Town offers less magic than other historic centers we've visited, and the cover of dark smoothes out some of the harsh edges visible during the day. Admittedly, the humid 90F weather contributed to my less-than-cheerful disposition.

Nearby Cismigiu Gardens, while not stunningly pretty, is a pleasant enough diversion with row boats for rent on the small lake and a large childrens' playground. If you are seeking more park-like beauty and a place to take a long stroll, I recommend heading north to Herastrau Park.

A short stroll from Cismigiu Gardens, down Calea Victorei is Revolution Plaza with the strange Memorial of Rebirth monument, commemorating the Romanian Revolution of 1989 which overthrew Communism. It looks like an impaled basket that is bleeding. Meh.

But the star of all sights in Bucharest is Palace of the Parliament, a gobsmackingly audacious behemoth that was the brainchild of infamous dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, who ruled for decades before being executed by firing squad in 1989. EEK.

With 1,100 rooms, it is the second largest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon. So enormous, the size is difficult to convey but one needs to stand nearly half a mile away to fit the whole thing into a picture.

We visited on a warm morning and were surprised how most of the rooms are not air conditioned (or heated) due to cost. Despite being built in the late 80's/early 90's, much of the place is shockingly run down as no updates appear to have been made. It's like going into a time capsule from 1989. Despite this, it's truly the one 'must see' if you visit Bucharest. Nothing will really blow you away, but this is as close it gets. Sorry.

Exterior of the Palace on the north side

View of Union Boulevard from the balcony of the Palace facing east

View from the roof of the Palace facing north

While the sights didn't wow us, we did enjoy a few nice meals in the Old Town aka Lipscani district including the urban and hip Energiea, local favorite City Grill and touristy, but must-see Caru' Cu Bere.

Even our favorite activity of city walking left us depressed. While there is an abundance of neoclassical architecture and statue-filled squares (see photos below), the visual relief is not nearly enough to compensate for the overwhelmingly down-trodden appearance of everything else. The presence of many homeless people and Roma sifting through garbage bins adds to the 'hard times' atmosphere.

Here are a few of the prettier bits.

You may think I'm being picky and overly harsh, but I'm actually being quite nice. Our visit to the train station truly solidified it in our Top Ten 'Beat Down' Cities list.

We needed to figure out train tickets to Brasov, so decided to walk the three miles and get some exercise. We thought our neighborhood was crusty, but the area surrounding the train station is downright awful with condemned buildings and piles of garbage dumped unceremoniously on sidewalks.

Inside the train station ticket office, it was a scene post nuclear fallout. The paint on the walls was peeling. Electrical cords were hanging from the ceiling. The whole area was a frantic scrum with no orderly lines and air of desperation. But what freaked me out the most were the timetables in the ticket office that were handwritten on tarps. OK, the signs in the main terminal aren't handwritten, but still.

This is a modern capital city of two million people and the 6th largest in Europe. Apparently, they tapped out all their resources at the airport.

Luckily, there was Herastrau Park, our favorite place in Bucharest. This fresh and beautiful green space in the northern part of the city, contains a large recreational lake plus many statue-lined walking trails and the enormous (in size and popularity) bar restaurant Beraria H. Also, Herastrau borders Bucharest's toniest neighborhoods Dorobanti and Primaverii, as well as the upscale shopping center Promenade.

We enjoyed this area so much that we went back several times. In retrospect, I wish we had stayed near Herastrau and visited the Old Town and other sites by the competent, if not worn, underground metro trains.

But there is one part of Bucharest that did not disappoint. They have a cat cafe. On our last day, we sought out Miau, more animal shelter than commercially-minded cafe, where we had the whole place to ourselves and twelve new feline friends.

Over vegan coffee (!), we chatted with the owner who informed us that they don't turn away any cats (people bring them off the streets) and all donations go towards supporting the cats' needs. We noticed a three-legged cat and a few deformed tails, but overall they were healthy, friendly and happy.

It was our last day in Bucharest and despite the city's inability to impress, suddenly some affection for it began to seep in. I was the Grinch watching Whoville celebrate without all the trappings of Christmas. My heart grew three sizes that day.

I guess cats just make any place better.