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Transition to Travel: How To Prepare For A Mid-Career Break

September 28, 2016

UPDATE:  I was honored to share these insights recently on the podcast Zero to Travel.  To listen to the entire episode, click here.  

Whether it's a sabbatical for rest and contemplation, a gap year to see the world or a way to build a new lifestyle, there are many reasons why someone mid-career might trade their 9-5 life for temporary (or permanent) travel.  

Whatever the reasons, all require some degree of planning.

My partner, Perry, and I spent a year preparing for our long-term travel adventure and set off six months ago.  During this time we have gained new perspectives on the transition period that we call 'The Road to the Road', and have compiled our best advice for those considering their own travel break.

Where to Start

Long-term travel isn't for everyone and the decision to pursue it should not be considered lightly.  I try not to glamorize what we are doing, especially considering we are doing this on a budget.  Since this isn't likely to be vacation-level travel, start by asking yourself a few questions.

WHY GO?

Why you want to travel long term should be one of the first questions answered.  A clear understanding of your purpose will provide the necessary motivation to persevere through some of the challenging times, like when you arrive in a country exhausted after 20 hours of travel and your Airbnb host doesn't show up and you don't speak the local language.  It's not going to be sunshine and roses 24/7, but those mishaps make for the best stories so there is an upside even on bad days, but you will need to draw on that original inspiration from time to time. 

I found endless encouragement in the book 'Vagabonding' by Rolf Potts (recommend the audiobook over text).  Embracing the unknown while exploring the world is a powerful way to learn more about yourself-- and this became my raison d'être during the odd bad day which, so far, have proven to be better than the bad days in my previous life.

For more reasons to say 'yes', check out the inspiring website and podcast, Zero to Travel.

HOW LONG?

Deciding how long you want to be gone is also crucial.  Is this a six month sabbatical from work and you intend to return to the same job?  A year long break where you quit your job altogether?  Or a way to build a new career and lifestyle as many online entrepreneurs have done?  An open-ended return schedule (i.e. travel 'until the money runs out') may allow for more spontaneity but also require more attention/adherence to a budget.

WHAT'S THE TRUE COST?

Finally, be honest with yourself about the opportunity costs and trade offs.  If you earn $80,000 and put $20,000 in savings towards a year of travel, $100,000 (plus the cost of not contributing to your retirement savings plan) is the value of your year abroad.  That is the cost of checking off your bucket list of exotic destinations and unique experiences. 

This is a very simplistic way to look at it and, of course, you spend money every day to live so there is some double counting, but the point is to consider the cost and what you are getting in return-- difficult as it may be to forecast.  Money and experience aren't easily compared, so to assign a value to a given experience is equally as difficult before it happens as it is afterward.  Think of a great travel experience you have had in the past.  It's easy to add up the receipts and arrive at a precise cost, however, what you gained from the experience might be impossible to quantify.

Money, Honey

Once the decision to go has been made, funding is the next area to turn your attention.  Long-term travel is less expensive than you might think and plenty has been written on the subject of 'travel hacks' or tips to reduce the cost of travel.  

I'll address a few of my favorites below, but what is a bit squishier is how much in total you need to travel.  The obvious answer is 'it depends'-- on your comfort expectations, how fast you travel and where.   There are trade-offs for everything.  Some travelers go lower-budget on accommodation so they have more money for food experiences.  Some travelers avoid higher cost locations in favor of budget-friendly countries.  Some pet sit along the way to reduce accommodation costs.

So, how do you set a budget?

We took inspiration from the hugely successful travel blogger Nomadic Matt and his best-seller 'How to Travel the World on $50 a Day'.  With two people, we set a $100 per day spending target.  This helped us in two ways.  

  1. It gave us a savings target to shoot for
  2. It provided some boundaries for spending on the road  

We are budget travelers, but not super-budget travelers, so while that amount has been tough to hit in expensive Western Europe, we have had no problem shooting under par in Eastern Europe.  We expect the same balance in our future Asia/Pacific travels between expensive countries like Japan/Australia/New Zealand and budget-friendly Thailand/Cambodia/Vietnam.  In the end, we should easily hit our original target and will likely come under it as we become more comfortable with less comfort!

Once you have your budget set, here are a few of our favorite tips for saving money to fund your travels.

Write it Down

This proved to be an effective deterrent for spending.  First, we wrote out all of our expenses to see where we could cut costs.  Second, we wrote down every last penny going out the door and posted the list on the fridge for maximum visibility.  

Maximize Travel Rewards

For what you do buy, investing in the right travel credit card is crucial.  The business of credit cards is increasingly competitive, and providers must continually expand and promote rewards to catch consumers' attention.  There has been a ton written on this subject by multiple experts including Extra Pack of Peanuts' Travis Sherry and The Points Guy.  They can spell out which cards offer the best rewards and how to navigate the value of points, so I won't dive in too deeply here, but I will tell you which cards we selected and why.

Chase Sapphire Preferred

Universally lauded as one of the best rewards cards out there, the folks at Chase have upped the ante again.  Our bonus was 70,000 points, but the latest offers are for 100,000 points.  To secure our bonus points, we needed to meet a minimum spend of $3,000 within 90 days which we did (by putting all of our household expenses solely on this card) and then paid the balance off immediately. 

In addition to generous sign up bonuses, Chase points are more valuable than most airline points. They can be redeemed within the internal Chase Rewards system at 1.25-2 cents per mile while most airline points are deemed a good value at 1 cent per mile.  OR you can transfer them to a variety of partners including United Airlines and Starwood Hotels.

Our Chase Sapphire Preferred has become our everyday card on the road due to no foreign transaction fees on top of the great rewards structure.  We are big fans of our Chase.

American Airlines AAdvantage

Because I already had a lot of American points due to business travel, the 50,000 point sign up bonus was a good value for me.  American has some of the best rewards travel out there with USA-Europe flights starting at just 22,500 points.  They don't make it nigh impossible for you to redeem your points either (take notice, Delta).

After meeting our minimum spend requirement on the Chase, we secured this card.  Similarly, there was a minimum $3,000 spend in 90 days but with the two of us using it, Christmas expenditures, expensive investments in our travel packs, and a travel laptop for Perry, it wasn't difficult to meet it.  

This is a back-up card and we don't plan to use it much unless something happens to our Chase.  

So, what's the takeaway?

I had the same credit card for years, and when I figured out how bad the value of the points actually were, I was gutted that I didn't start with a better card sooner.  With our two cards, we earned 120,000 free points on top of all the airline miles I already had.  Between points and low-cost airlines, air travel is one of the lowest expenses in our budget despite traveling all around the world.  

The Right Bank Account

During a visit to the UK before we began our year of travel, we used the ATM cards from our respective bank accounts of GMI credit union (me) and Wells Fargo (Perry) and were shocked to discover how much we paid in ATM fees.  We knew there would be lots of cash withdrawals over the course of a year on the road and at $3.00 or more a pop, that quickly adds up.  This relieves a lot of stress involved in obtaining cash, because 1) we don't need to look for specific ATMs to minimize withdrawal fees, and 2) we can withdraw cash frequently and thus do not have to carry large amounts of it at once.

We switched to the Charles Schwab High Yield Investor Checking Account where we are reimbursed at the end of each month for any ATM fees incurred.  #winning

Leverage Work Travel

Sock away those points when traveling for business, no matter how minor.  While we typically stay in apartments, every so often we splurge on a hotel and we do it with the points I saved from business travel.  Also, while we usually take public transportation, there are times when a car is more efficient and I use points saved from car rentals to mitigate the cost.

Downsizing

Whether you are going for a few months, a year, or indefinitely, reducing the amount of stuff you have is a great way to prepare yourself for life on the road.  In addition to getting practice living minimally, selling possessions can certainly help fund your travels.  

After we listed out all of our expenses, we could see the biggest expenditures were rent and car payments.  One of the first things we did was move into a small one bedroom apartment and sell one of our cars.  This move freed up $1200 per month which over the course of a year contributed nearly one half of our savings target.

If you are renting, this is a pretty easy move, provided you aren't in the middle of your lease, but it doesn't hurt to ask the landlord if they will transfer your lease to another unit.  If you own a home, this could be your chance to save money by selling, renting or even listing your property on Airbnb.  

Once you move into a smaller place, it is the perfect opportunity to address clutter and excess accumulation.  Selling possessions might be difficult for some, but we found it thrilling to offload stuff and make money at the same time.

Moving into a smaller place wasn't much of a hardship but getting used to one car took practice and patience.  We had to coordinate our schedules a lot more and Uber helped, too.  Turns out, we helped ourselves prepare for life in countries where walking and public transportation is de rigueur.

The Right Stuff

If we could go back in time, this is one area we would do over.   The challenge of what to bring on the trip!

The first thing we would do is purchase our 44 liter Tortuga backpacks as early as possible.  This would have prevented us from buying more gear than we ultimately needed.  Once you make a commitment to the size pack you want to lug around, make it a priority to have it on hand so you can get used to it and figure out exactly what can and can't fit.  This should help to prevent overbuying of travel gear.

Then, we would forget the quest for the perfect gear- pants, shirts, underwear, etc.  We both spent way too much time on this.  I recently wrote an article elaborating on how much the 'right clothes' are pretty much meaningless.  

We chose a 44 liter pack as it the maximum carry on size for the majority of airlines.  You will breeze through the airport while everyone is standing in line waiting to check a bag or waiting at the luggage carousel with fingers crossed.

While you can get by without much in the luggage/clothes department, one thing that you will need is a good international phone service.  The ability to text the owner of your Airbnb, pull up a map when lost, or translate something from a menu is priceless.  We switched to the T-Mobile international plan.  For $50/month (one person) I have unlimited data (2G speed, so not amazing, but it does the trick) and texting in 140 countries.  Calls are $0.20/minute, so it's not the end of the world if you need to make a dinner reservation or quick call for directions.  

Where to Go

One of the best parts about the wait is planning destinations and experiences.  This became a Friday night ritual for us where we would share our top locations and bucket list items that we could compare and begin building a rough itinerary.  

This is where I discovered sleeping in a Mongolian yurt, visiting Estonia and seeing the Terra Cotta soldiers in Xi'an, China are high on Perry's bucket list.  He found out that touring the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia and sleeping in a glamping hut were on mine.

In addition to being a practical thing to do, it turned out to be a lot of fun and a great relationship builder.  If you are planning to travel with a partner, you are both in this together and there is nothing like creating shared experiences to bring you closer.  Turns out, building that goodwill comes in handy during occasional tough days and long stretches of nothing but 24/7 togetherness.

Final Thoughts on the 'Transition to Travel' 

While it might take some time to save the money and get your life in order, don't wait too long.  After six months of planning, we bought our airline tickets ($600 for two tickets to London, thanks Skyscanner) to force an end date to our normal lives / a start date for our travel adventures.

Good luck let me know if you hit the road!  I would love to hear from you at paula_labine@yahoo.com.

 

 

 

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Before:  March, 2016

Before:  March, 2016

Travel Packing Update: Winners & Losers

September 24, 2016
After:  September, 2016

After:  September, 2016

We are nearly finished with our breather in the UK before continuing our travels in Western Europe for the remainder of the year.  In preparation, I've just finished sorting my stuff into piles of what's 'in' and what's 'out'.

After six months, I've come a long way since I first packed up in March.  There has been a lot of learning about how and what to bring for life on the road, but the biggest realization is that you need to figure it for yourself.  No matter how many blogs and articles I read cautioning to 'do this' or 'bring that', there is nothing like good old-fashioned experience to help hammer the lessons home.

PACKING LESSONS

Cheaters Never Win

A backpack only holds so much and you can't sneak something in like you might do when packing a suitcase for a weekend trip.  You know, those 'just in case' pieces.  Once you are over the limit, your backpack will simply ignore your pleas to ZIP UP YOU PIECE OF S&!T while you wrap your leg around it trying to squeeze it into submission.  Not that it's happened to me or anything.

Atonement

Speaking of 'just in case', you will curse those items and the extra weight they contribute when you inevitably take a wrong turn on the way to your Airbnb from the train station and end up walking two extra miles in 90F degree heat with 25# of 'just in case' on your back.  Not that it's happened to me or anything.

Not Just a Pretty Face

Once in a blue moon, a 'frivolous' item becomes a travel hero.  Such is my trusty Michael Kors gold travel wallet- see the WINNERS section below.

The Price of Beauty

Toiletries & makeup are heavy and I'm sick of carrying them around.  I've cut WAY back and no longer pack extra amounts of the face wash, lotion and tampons I prefer.  

Top Gear

Yes, understand the limitations of your gear but don't let it stop you.  You are not going to run a marathon in flip-flops, but you CAN climb mountains in a simple pair of sneakers.  You can't pack for every contingency, but somehow things just work out.  I wasted way too much time thinking about the 'what if' scenarios and trying to find the 'perfect' article of clothing.  99% of the time, it just doesn't matter what you are wearing.  What if I need to go to a nice dinner?  What if I get invited to go white water rafting?  Blahblahblah!  Just throw some stuff in bag and get out there.

WINNERS & LOSERS

As mentioned above, most of the clothes I packed turned out to be just fine.  However, there were a few pieces that stood out on both ends of the spectrum.  There were several winners and a few losers.  Luckily, more of the former than the latter.  If you read the original article on what I packed, you know I had high hopes for my gear and here is how it worked out.

WINNERS

CAPILENE MIDWEIGHT ZIP-NECK TOP BY PATAGONIA

The number one can't-live-without piece in my possession is this little number I picked up on sale for $50 at REI in St. Louis.  I've worn it nearly every single day over the past six months, even in the summer because air conditioning makes me cold.   Lightweight, yet warm and still looking great after countless washes, Patagonia, I owe you everything.

CITY JOGGER BY ATHLETA

My city joggers are SO comfortable, I kicked my leggings out of the pack.  Even though they feel like pajamas, they look great.

3/4 SLEEVE BALLET NECK INDISPENSIBLE DRESS BY TRAVELSMITH

I've worn this dress more than I thought I would.  Not just for going out to eat, I've worn it frequently on travel days as something that is not constricting but looks respectable.

NIKE FREE 5.0 RUNNING SHOE

These shoes are so awesome, I'm on my second pair!  I was lucky to find replacements in Bucharest for $80 which was perfect timing because of the 800+ miles I had put on them up to that point.  It's a relief to be in a pair of shoes that are not only comfortable and super lightweight, but my feet still feel great after 7-12 miles per day of walking.  They have even tackled some mountain hiking.

MICHAEL KORS JET SET WALLET

Originally, I bought a nylon travel wallet from Travelsmith, but at the last minute I decided to go with what I had been using.  What makes this wallet great is the removable strap so I can go from cross-body purse to clutch in seconds.  In my previous life, it lived inside my big work tote along with the strap in case I needed to go hands-free.  

This wallet has worked like magic on road.  It's been a workhorse as I carry it nearly every single day.  Not only does it hold my passport, phone and lipgloss in addition to the usual money and credit cards, it's cute AND waterproof.  Cue the song of heavenly angels.

LOSERS

TENCEL INDIGO TUNIC BY J JILL

I thought this tunic would be great, but shame on me for not giving it a test drive prior to leaving. Tencel may be easy care, but it wrinkles like crazy!  Even after hanging up for several days, the wrinkles won't budge.  Ironing on the road?  Nope.

RIBBED SLIM TEE BY ANTHROPOLOGIE

How wrong can you go in a simple long sleeve top?  Plenty, it turns out.  After one wash, it shrank up.  Boo!

CLASSIC V NECK TEE BY RAG & BONE

Normally, high performance material is good on the road.   In fact, I will probably bring it to SE Asia where cotton just doesn't dry very well in the humidity.  The reality is that I didn't reach for this shirt very often as it just felt like a baggy square and was not very flattering.  

WUNDER UNDER LEGGINGS BY LULULEMON

I take back what I said about leggings being a must have travel item.  I hardly wore mine even though I thought they would be used for both exercise or relaxing.  Instead of gyms however, we walked everywhere but I wore either my City Joggers or shorts.  If I wanted to relax, it was my City Joggers or pajama bottoms.  Caught in the dreaded middle ground, I sent these back to the UK with Alison when she visited us in Split.  

THE REPLACEMENTS

If a piece didn't make the cut, I mainly just did without, but there were a couple of items that I did pick up on the road that especially helped during the hot weather period.

CUT & PRET PEASANT BLOUSE

I picked up this shirt in Tallinn and it was a lifesaver.  It provided lightweight coverage without making me sweaty.  It washed up like a champ and air dried in a couple of hours.  It wrinkled a bit when packed but after hanging up overnight, the wrinkles disappeared.  Good enough for me!

H&M TANK

When the weather was really hot, even a t-shirt was too much.  This tank checked all the boxes- cool and lightweight, good looks, easy wash/dry and packed up in the tiniest ball in my pack.

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked:  A Walk on the Wild Side:  Bucharest, Romania

 

 

Tags Travel, Travel Packing, Hot weather travel, Women's Travel Packing
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Wrong Turns Made Right: Belgrade, Serbia

September 13, 2016

Why is it that when things go wrong, they often make for the best life lessons?

After our travels through the small and war-recovering cities of Mostar and Sarajevo in Bosnia & Herzegovina, we were ready for some major city action.  We had heard good things about Belgrade, Serbia, but my view was slightly on the unfavorable side, especially after visiting the Bosnian War Museum where I learned about the genocide committed by the Serbs against the Bosniaks while the rest of the world did nothing until over 10,000 people were slaughtered.

Serbia has been a typical source for 'bad guys' in pop culture including the television series Sherlock (he was beaten up in a Serbian prison in Series 3) and one of my favorite video games of all time, Uncharted 2:  Among Thieves with the lead villain being a Serbian war criminal by the name Zoran Lazarevic.  

Lazarevich is a baddie, right down to his cliched facial knife scar

Lazarevich is a baddie, right down to his cliched facial knife scar

It was early morning when we left Sarajevo in a van with nine people.  Three Bosnians in the back (a mother and her two children), three Americans in the middle (Perry, me and a middle aged man) and three Serbs in the front including the driver, his chatty girlfriend and an older woman who gave me the stink eye as we stepped into the van.

It felt like we were refugees escaping via any means possible.  Right away, I discovered my seatbelt was tied in a knot and rigged up such that it wrapped around my torso like a noose.  As we crossed never-ending mountains with hairpin turns, my body slammed against the van door when we curved left and then heaved back into Perry when we curved right.  Over and over and over.  

The confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube.

The confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube.

Movie watching on my laptop, my intended entertainment, was out of the question so I focused on the scenery.  It was gorgeous, but instead of being relaxing, was a horror show as the driver, seemingly possessed by a death wish, passed cars on double yellow lines and sped around logging trucks on clifftops with no railing.  I comforted myself that if we drove off the road my seatbelt noose would bisect me before we hit the ground.  

The passengers sat in sullen resignation and did not speak except for the young woman in the front whose deep, husky Serbian sounded like Russian.  The Serbs, Bosnians and Croats speak the same language and the only difference is that the Serbs use Cyrillic letters while the Bosnians and Croats use Latin letters.  Yet, they sound completely different, at least to my Western ears.

Pedestrian street, Knez Mihalova with Austrian era architecture

Pedestrian street, Knez Mihalova with Austrian era architecture

We crossed the border into Serbia and instantly, the mood changed.  Our driver rolled down the window, turned up the radio and began to sing.  He joked around and everyone loosened up except for the crabby lady in the front seat who looked back at me as if to say 'I've got my eye on you, American.'

It turned out this trip was a lot like Belgrade itself.  Stoic one minute and ready to party the next.  A little gritty, but heart-pounding excitement around every corner.

When we reached the outskirts of the city, I was shocked to see miles of high rise apartment buildings that seemed to go on forever.  This was Yugoslavian Belgrade, all drab and practical concrete blocks.  Passing these, new Belgrade began to look like a modern Western suburb with lots of fashionable homes and shopping malls.  As we neared the heart of the city, the former Yugoslavia and modern Serbia collided with elegant Austrian era architecture, imposing Yugoslav buildings and sleek skyscrapers blending together warily.

Architectural mash up:  Austrian era (left) and Yugoslavian era (right)

Architectural mash up:  Austrian era (left) and Yugoslavian era (right)

Belgrade's modern history is as the current capital of Serbia and the former capital of Yugoslavia, but sits on a ancient crossroads serving as a battleground in 115 wars and subsequently controlled by a long cast of characters including the Thracians, Dacians, Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Franks, Bulgarians, Hungarians, Ottomans and Austrian Habsburgs.  Whew.

Ruled by Marshal Josip Broz Tito for nearly 30 years, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia began to break apart after his death in the 80's with a series of revolutions and wars in the early 90's.  Serbia (along with Montenegro) tried to hang onto the FRY moniker which the other former republics (Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia & Herzegovina) opposed.  In 2006, Serbia and Montenegro finally broke up into separate states with Kosovo proclaiming independence from Serbia in 2008.  This has been bitterly disputed and Serbia's strife filled history continues.

Still lots of Yugo's on the streets

Still lots of Yugo's on the streets

Despite a bit of lingering animosity between the former Yugoslav countries, all of the people we met gave high marks to Belgrade as a culturally exciting city.  We booked an Airbnb in Skadarlija which has a Greenwich Village-type feel to it.  Formerly the home to artists and writers, it is now a confluence of university students, urban hipsters and elderly people that have lived their entire lives in this neighborhood.

I found Belgrade (and Skadarlija in particular) to be surprisingly sophisticated with elegant wine bars and cafes mixing with local bakeries, cevapi shops and even a brand new upscale supermarket.  The nearby famed pedestrian street Knez Mihailova throngs with tourists and locals alike.  I found the people of Belgrade to be proud and dignified, yet not unfriendly.  This is was what I imagined St. Petersburg to be, but it wasn't.  

Our time in Belgrade was busy and exciting, full of sightseeing, great food and people watching.  It was a relatively mishap free week until I suggested a shortcut.

The only remaining item on our list was a visit to the island of Ada Ciganlija.  Recommended by our host, this urban leisure hub contains a popular beach, large park with walking and biking trails, and a golf course.  

Nicola Tesla museum

Nicola Tesla museum

We walk everywhere and even though it was six miles away, we were up for it.  I mapped out the route on my phone and off we went.  About a mile from the island, I realized the road didn't go through because of the train tracks.  It was hot and we still had the park to walk, so I suggested we cross under the freeway and cut through the neighborhood directly across from the park.

*Top Tip*  Don't take short cuts unless you know where you are going.

St. Sava Orthodox Cathedral

St. Sava Orthodox Cathedral

Initially, I thought it was just fine.  We saw two women cross in front of us but I lost sight of them as we got caught up in conversation.  Suddenly, it was eerily quiet so we stopped talking and looked around.  It was slightly dark with several highway flyovers above us and I blinked to adjust my eyes because I couldn't believe what I was seeing.  A three-legged horse was tied to a tree with a broken cart beside it.  Behind a nearby tangle of brambles I could see what looked to be several wagons and old campers.

We were in a Roma camp.  Roma, known in the UK as 'travelers' (and everywhere pejoratively as gypsies), have a reputation for being hot-tempered, free spirited and petty criminals.  They have been historically persecuted since they left northern India in 500 AD and arrived in the Europe around 900 AD.  I had no reason to fear them, but my gut said we should get out of there immediately as it just felt super creepy.  As we speed walked up the street, the scene became even more troubling with dumped garbage and broken buildings everywhere.  We spied an establishment on the side of the road that looked to be a restaurant, so we decided to stop and call for a taxi.  TRIGGER WARNING There was an animal roasting on a spit which I swear looked like a greyhound although maybe it was a goat.  A man popped his head out of the door and before we could speak, slammed the door shut.  

Alrighty then!

Sunset on the Sava River

Sunset on the Sava River

My imagination was running wild now and we walked faster until we reached the top of a hill with a fork in the road.  The street to the right led to the park, but appeared to be another scary street like the one we had just come from, complete with a complex of buildings that looked as though they had been bombed.  At this point, I lost it.  In the throes of a full-on anxiety attack, we spotted a bar on the corner with three outdoor tables, two of which were occupied by patrons.  Thinking we would try again for a taxi, we sat down at the empty table.  They all stopped talking and stared at us.  At one table sat two toothless old men drinking beer and smoking cigarettes.  At the other table was a large older woman in a housedress and sensible shoes and a young man with long greasy hair and a knife scar across his face.  

No one approached us, so after a few minutes we poked our heads inside the building where four men were watching tennis on television.  It was just a room with chairs and no discernible bar.  They turned simultaneously to look at us, then turned back to the television silently with no further acknowledgement of our presence.

River Sava at sunset.  The boats and barges contain bars and restaurants.

River Sava at sunset.  The boats and barges contain bars and restaurants.

Back outside, we sat down again, not knowing what to do.  Finally, the woman spoke to us in Serbian and we smiled while apologizing for not knowing Serbian.  Undeterred, she gestured to the table and then to us.  I finally understood she was trying to serve us so I pointed to her beer and held up two fingers.  

The beers arrived, huge 20 oz bottles of strong, dark Serbian brew.  I chugged mine down and felt the alcohol begin to soothe my frayed nerves.  Perry hates beer, but this was not a vodka and tonic establishment so he drank it, grimacing with every swallow.  All the patrons had a permanent grimace, so he fit right in.  

Government building.  Signs outside are protests of Albanian 'terrorists'

Government building.  Signs outside are protests of Albanian 'terrorists'

I was on my phone hunting for a taxi service and conveyed this quietly to Perry.  Scar guy suddenly spoke to us in English.  "You want taxi?  Where you want to go?"

Startled, I stumbled over my words explaining our quest to visit Ada Ciganlija.  He appeared puzzled and stood up pointing down the sketchy street.  "Taxi?  No taxi.  Park is there."  Now, I stood up and pointed down the same street.  "The park is there?"  I questioned.  He laughed.  "At the end of this street.  Three blocks."

The ice broken, we began chatting in earnest.  In another installment of 'Never Judge a Book by Its Cover', he turned out to be a pretty good guy.  

Sufficiently lubricated, we said our goodbyes and walked the three blocks.  Sure enough, there it was.  Happy beachgoers and ice cream stands amidst a lovely park setting.  A sharp contrast to the scene just a few blocks away.  

We walked for a long time and just when we thought the day couldn't be any stranger than it was, we came upon a baseball game between the Serbian and Hungarian national youth baseball teams.  Taking a seat in the stands, we could hear the unmistakeable sound of English with a southern drawl "Wait for your pitch" and "Throw to first".  The coaches were American.

Serbia (white) v Hungary (red)

Serbia (white) v Hungary (red)

Baseball is not huge in the Balkans, so as fans of the game we felt it was our duty to support Serbia even though they were crushed by the much larger (and apparently older?) Hungarians.  What are they feeding those kids for breakfast?  We laughed that on the other side of the world, we were partaking in the most normal American afternoon activity- baseball in the park.

After a wrong turn in the morning, everything had turned right.  Sketchy people turned out to be saviors.  Serbian parks turned out American sports.  A strange place on the road had once again turned familiar.

 

Tags Long Term Travel, Budget Travel, RTW, Round The World Trip, European Travel, Travel, Belgrade, Serbia
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    • Sep 24, 2017 Things I'm Getting Used To: Europe, Round II Sep 24, 2017
    • Sep 22, 2017 The Five Best Cat Cafes In Seoul, South Korea Sep 22, 2017
    • Sep 14, 2017 A Girl's Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina Sep 14, 2017
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    • Jul 14, 2017 I Quit My Job to Travel: Sixteen Months Later Jul 14, 2017
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Every week, we will post new stories, photos and videos from the road.  We would love to hear from you with any suggestions or recommendations as we move from country to country!

Paula LaBine, 2017