Split Personality: Copenhagen

Anti-establishment socialists or venture capitalists?  Historic beauty or modern sensibility?  In Copenhagen, you get it all, with two-for-the-price-of-one bargains such as:

• Multi-national corporations living in harmony near a hippie commune
• Suburban-style shops equally at home alongside independents
• Pretty, historic districts blending seamlessly with industrial complexes

Despite these differences, they all agree on one thing:  environmentally clean healthy living.  The bike lanes are full and it's tough to find anything BUT organic food in the shops.  Well, maybe not the Shawarma vendor.

Change and diversity have always been in Copenhagen's DNA.  Originally, a sleepy fishing village, it became a haven for merchants (Copenhagen = Merchants Harbor) but eventually became the ruling center as the capital of Denmark-Norway and driving force behind the Kalmar Union (between 1397 and 1523, the Kingdoms of Denmark, Sweden and Norway formed a state to block the expansion of Germany and the Hanseatic League).  It further evolved into cultural powerhouse during the Danish Golden Age of the 19th century, where painting, sculpture, literature and philosophy thrived with key contributors such as Soren Kierkegaard and Hans Christian Andersen.

King of Fairy Tales:  HC Andersen

Today, it is a bustling haven of capitalism, set apart by a vibe that strongly identifies as Nordic.  Yet despite this northern stoicism, Danish culture also has a unique edge that feels even more liberal and progressive than neighboring Norway and Sweden.  These deep rooted values are felt throughout the city, but particularly at the hippie commune Christiania, founded in 1971 in the harbor borough of Christianshavn.  After intermittent struggles with the city officials (mainly over open cannabis) who sought to close it, the site is now one of the top tourist attractions in Copenhagen.  Consistent with the paradox that is Copenhagen, Christiania is self-governed, yet pay taxes.

We started our touring in Christiania and after a stroll through infamous Pusher Street, an open cannabis zone with a surprising amusement park-like atmosphere, we stopped for a fabulous vegetarian lunch at Morgenstedet.  Photos are forbidden in the 'green light district' as Pusher Street is also known.

We stayed in the borough of Norrebro and did a fair bit of exploring there as well.  On the progressive scale, it's a bit more gentrified than Christiania, but with a gritty edge.  Labelled as 'up and coming', Norrebro is a creative center for artists and its (relatively) low rents have attracted migrants and young families.  There we all were:  babies in strollers, bearded hipsters, Pakistani Muslims and us.  

Copenhagen is compact and easily explored on foot, so we walked everywhere.  There are plenty of places to rent a cycle, but the crowded lanes didn't feel very leisurely, so we voted against it. 

While Norrebro has the rough edges, most of the city center and historic landmarks are well manicured and make for pleasant walking.  Besides the city center, Vesterbro is also great for strolling, with plenty of galleries, coffee shops and wine bars to tempt you.

Radhuspladsen (Copenhagen City Hall)

Kastellet, 17th century fortress

Copenhagen city residential street

Den Lille Havfrue

While I photographed the obligatory historic sites such as Tivoli, Nyhavn, Rosenborg Castle and The Little Mermaid, I'm apparently fascinated by doors on buildings, as evidenced by the number of them I had on my phone.  

Shops on Christianshavn

I liked the barn-esque doors..

Apartment building on the harbor 

But it was from the top of Our Savior's Church that all the contradictions faded away.  I wanted to spend more time contemplating Copenhagen so I could leave you with something philosophical about the fusing of ugly and beauty into something real and appealing, but I had an attack of acrophobia (you climb the stairs on the outside of the building for Pete's sake!), so I'll just leave you with these shots.

I had a panic attack on the second to the last spiral from the top.

Green spaces.. and wind farms

Farewell!  DFDS cruise from Copenhagen to Oslo

Copenhagen, I get your split personality and I like where it's going.  Tak!

Next time on Gobsmacked...

Oslo:  My Spirit Animal?

Baby, It's Cold Outside

Attention!  I have a news alert pulled from the file of ‘No Sh!t, Sherlock’.

Scandinavia is cold. 

Cruise to Norway

Shocking, no?  And it’s not just in the winter, but in the spring, and I suspect, summer too.  However, there is hope and her name is Sweden- she brings sunshine and 60F (15C) temperatures.

With my northern heritage, you would think I would have a tougher constitution when it comes to dealing with cold weather.  You would also think as an adult, I could separate my surroundings from how I feel about a city.  Nope, turns out both of these things radically impact how I feel about a place.

For example, I’m in love with Stockholm.  Why?  Because I adore the Sodermalm studio where we are staying, and its sunny, relaxed open space seems to mirror the city, the people and my attitude.  But do I really love it or am I being swayed by the warm temps and cute apartment?  Would I love it as much if it was 45F (7C) and we were staying in a basement?

I’m wondering out loud because while I enjoyed Oslo, my overall feeling for the city was slightly muted due to the cold temperatures and less-than-ideal accommodation. 

Oslo Fjord cruise

We decided to rent a room vs. an apartment as it was half the price of what we paid in Copenhagen, and since it was only for three days, it felt relatively low risk.  Plus, before the trip started, we agreed to push outside our comfort zone by trying different types of accommodation, such as rented rooms, hostels, housesits and voluntourism.

While our host and the apartment were both very nice, the shared living spaces (especially the bathroom) proved fairly uncomfortable for both Perry and I.  *Top Tip* when using the bathroom with a stranger in the next room, please, no audible groaning.  I don’t care what you ate last night. 

As a result of our discomfort, we left the apartment first thing in the morning and didn’t return until after dinner, spending lots of money eating every meal out and generally running ourselves ragged.   

I read once that life begins at the end of your comfort zone and if that is the case, consider me born again after Oslo. 

Objectively, I should love Oslo- it’s a beautiful city- modern, vibrant and clean.  Also, I’ve got the whole Norwegian heritage thing going on and when I saw lefse in the store, do you think I knew what to do with it?  You betcha!  I had butter & sugar lefse rolls to drink with my coffee on the train ride to Stockholm.  I’m made for Norway! 

Not as good as Grandma's...

I want a do-over.  In July.  Mom, you game?

The lesson learned is that while having our own apartment appears more expensive, we spend less money on food (and less overall) by buying groceries.  And I don’t like sharing a bathroom with random Norwegian dudes.  Sue me.

It happened in Copenhagen, too.  We stayed in a cute apartment in the cool-hip-artsy-edgy area near the city center, and this attitude benefitted other parts of the city whether they deserved it or not.  Objectively, Christiania is too dirty hippie to be hip and Orestad is too suburban mainstream to be edgy, yet I somehow glossed over this in my mental post-visit recap of Copenhagen = cool-hip-artsy-edgy.  But true to the temperature linkage, the chilly winds also gave the city a slightly impersonal and cold feeling.

I hope I’m not going to be this literal for the entire trip.

The good news with all this cold weather is that it provides the perfect excuse to have hot chocolate.

'Civilized' hot chocolate at La Glace in Copenhagen

Kaffebrenneriet in Oslo

Library Bar at Hotel Bristol in Oslo

Shout out to the friendly Danish folks at DFDS Ferries- our overnight cruise from Copenhagen to Oslo was great fun!  Mom, tell Dad I ate the herring on the smorgasbord and I actually liked it.

DFDS cruise near Oslo

Lotsa parkas...

Only one minor mishap so far- I hurt my ankle after missing a step off the bike lane in Copenhagen  (the sidewalk, bike lane and traffic lanes are all on slightly different elevations) and it still isn’t back to normal.  Probably because we are averaging nearly 10 miles of walking per day (the only way I can eat all this bread) and I’m too obsessed with my daily mileage to rest it.

Next blog post:  Copenhagen Redux

Three Days in Cornwall

DAY ONE (Land's End, St. Michael's Mount, St. Ives)

An exotic setting with turquoise seas and white sandy beaches sounds like the tropics, right?

Try Cornwall.  Yes, that Cornwall.  In England.

The color of the sea was the first thing I noticed.  It had taken about an hour to get to Land’s End from our holiday cottage in St. Newlyn East, and the last 15 miles of the 40 mile drive was a seemingly endless series of narrow lanes filled with nerve-wracking close encounters with double decker tour buses, trucks and construction vehicles.

The most western point in England

But once we arrived, it all melted away.  The water was such a brilliant shade of blue, that it was difficult to believe this was the UK as we had been to the seaside in the north, south and east where the water was always a muddy gray or brown color.   The crystal clear waters of Cornwall beckoned me to ‘come on in’, but outside the car, the crisp spring air reminded me that this wasn’t swimming weather.  

After a short walk, we found ourselves standing at the cliff, where I was mesmerized by the sound of crashing waves.  

The area around Land’s End is a strange blend with majestic natural views sharing space with a cheesy tourist center featuring a horror attraction (‘For the whole family!’) and a 4D theatre playing a low budget King Arthur film.  Tintagel, Arthur’s castle as the legend goes, is about 2 hours to the north, so I considered this to be a bit of a stretch.

Enter the fray

The most famous landmark at Land's End is the signpost, but since they charge 9 pounds just to pose (plus the cost of the photo), I took a shot of this Filipino family instead.

After a long hike, we snacked on some local delicacies- a Cornish Pasty for Paula (I’ll eat anything wrapped in pie crust, including turnip) and a Cornish Milk Shake for Perry (they add clotted cream, so that makes it authentic, right?), then headed to St. Michael’s Mount.  By now, the sun was high and bright and the water seemed to shimmer as we descended the road from Penzance into Marazion.

Land’s End was spectacular, but I enjoyed St. Michael’s Mount even more.  An island that also houses an eponymous castle, St. Michael's Mount is special because it has a manmade granite stone causeway that connects it to the mainland, allowing you to walk out during low tide (and prompting me to imagine how fast I could run if the water came up unexpectedly). 

Once on the island, it felt oddly out of place in Britain- more tropical hideaway than your typical gray and serious castle location, with palms, lush greenery and fragrant flowers. 

The climb to the top follows a steep and somewhat treacherous footway, but you can stop at intervals and photograph the path of British fairy tale legend Jack the Giant Killer.  Once at the top, you are rewarded with picture perfect views that even my poor photography skills can’t help but capture. 

The castle is small and cosy- even the Great Hall seems oddly intimate!

We closed out the day by making the short drive to St. Ives.  A former fishing village, today it has a thriving artist community (including a branch of the Tate Gallery) and is a popular holiday resort. 

St Ives is set into a steep hillside, but the good news is that when you climb the hill to leave, you will burn enough calories to enjoy a second glass of wine with dinner, as I did that night.

DAY TWO (Perranporth, Holywell Bay, Crantock)

After all the fresh air on the first day, we slept well that night in Willow Cottage, St. Newlyn East.  The next morning, we decided to have a potter around the town.

It is a quiet and lovely village and I'm convinced the one track lanes bordered by earthen hedge walls are meant to keep it that way.  If you encounter another vehicle, you must move your car into any nook or cranny you can find and hold your breath as if you are sucking in the car as the other one passes.  Below, Perry is standing in a two-way street.  For real.

After our leisurely morning, we decided to head to Perranporth first as it was furthest south, and make our way north hitting up Holywell Bay and Crantock before heading back to St. Newlyn East.  The drive down the hill into Perranporth is lovely, but tight with hairpin curves and the village itself is bustling with life.  But once you get to the beach, the wide open space will make you forget everything.  Ahhh!

Popular with surfers and sunbathers alike, the beach is significant due to its size and perfect sand, which is great for walking.  Once again, I found myself drawn towards the crystal clear water, so I waded in a short distance but it was so cold, it made my feet tingle.  

You can also climb the cliffs which hold footpaths for even more spectacular views.

After all that fresh air, we headed over to Holywell Bay for a fantastic lunch of fish and chips (at the seaside, it would be wrong not to) at the lovely St. Pirans Inn.

Photo credit St. Pirans Inn

In contrast to Perranporth, Holywell Bay contains grassy dunes which help it feel very secluded and romantic.  When you climb the dunes, you are rewarded with another perfect beach and Caribbean-esque waters.

Crantock was the last stop of the day and after a suggestion from our host Roger, decided to walk one of its famous footpaths.  It would prove to be our most adventurous outing of the weekend.  

We parked in the middle of town and walked less than a mile to Crantock Beach, which helped us avoid the carpark fee.  It was a lovely, shady walk and I felt a bit smug-  until a bird crapped on my head.  After a quick clean up (thanks to my compulsive habit of carrying napkins or paper towels at all times), Perry met me at the kissing gate and we started our hike.

Crantock Beach is unusual in that it is part of an estuary called the River Gannel, which is tidal, such that at low tide, the beach extends for miles.  You can walk the river bed, but know the tide schedule because the water comes up very quickly.  Ask Sue about that sometime.  

Homes are built into the side of the hill with interesting stairs down to the water, creating an odd fire escape look. 

There are several walks near this beach and we chose the Crantock/Gannel footpath which incorporates both the beach and green pastures.  It turned out to be a warm day and yet we were alone on the footpath with just the birds that serenaded us.  

Once we left the beach trail, the pasture walk soon became a bit dicey.  We lost the trail and meandered across a hilly field that seemed to go on forever.  Luckily, it was a warm and sunny day, so we didn't mind getting lost and eventually found our way back to town with a bit of color.  Not island holiday color, but color nonetheless.

DAY THREE (Bideford, Gloucester Services)

So, Day Three is technically not in Cornwall, but since it is a 6 hour drive back to Peterborough, our activities are worth mentioning.  

Bideford is in Devon and you won't confuse it with a holiday destination.  However, it is the namesake of Perry's hometown of Biddeford, Maine, and as we did not get there when we lived in the UK, it needed to be checked off the list.  We had a nice lunch with the friendly folks at The Kings Arms, but when we asked what we should do in Bideford, they politely replied 'Well, nothing really'.  They were right.  According to Perry, this Bideford is on par with the other Biddeford, but I personally think Maine edges it at the finish by a nose.  

Gloucester Services rounds out our tropical theme which may seem a bit odd, but this is a roadside rest area that is more resort than service station.  Instead of holding your breath while you hover to pee and grabbing questionable food that will require Tums later, Gloucester Services is a place where you actually WANT to linger, with elegant modern design and an upscale farm-to-table food concept.  Yes, go ahead and read that again.

After waiting out Birmingham's rush hour, we said goodbye to the oasis and tucked our gourmet goodies into the back seat along with our sandy shoes and sunscreen, souvenirs from the British tropics.