A Tale of Two Cities: Lisbon & Porto

November 30, 2016

Lisbon and Porto are both cities in Portugal, but that is where the similarity ends.

On second thought, they do share one thing-- a friendly rivalry. Since they love to engage in some good natured ribbing, I hope they will forgive me for taking sides. Turns out, I enjoyed Portugal more than expected, but I must place the 'Best City' blue ribbon firmly on Porto's lapel. However, I encourage you to go there yourself and prove me wrong or right!

To me, Lisbon is like your grandfather. Traditional, proud, and a bit formal, he is more likely to shake your hand than to give you a hug. Still handsome, but faded, he looks to the past, wanting to share stories about the way things used to be.

Porto comes across like your hipster bachelor uncle-- while he appreciates the old ways, he embraces the future with a youthful, fun-loving spirit. I'm Team Porto all the way, but that doesn't mean Lisbon completely failed to charm me.

Porto's Ribeira (old city) on the River Douro

LISBON DECONSTRUCTED

We landed in Lisbon after five wonderful weeks in the UK, the last week in the company of Perry's dad, Gary, and wife Peg. We traversed Wales from one end to the other in four days and spent the remaining two days doing a whirlwind tour of London.

Unfortunately for Lisbon, that means we showed up a bit exhausted, and our low energy may have contributed to my initial 'meh' impression of the city as we managed only a few short walks near our apartment. Apparently, we hit up all the monuments.

Piazza del Commercia and Rua Augusta Arch

After a few days of rest, we made up for lost time with some major excursions, which is where things went from lackluster to disappointment.

To be fair, Lisbon is a large city with a long history, and there is plenty to see and do. The past is evident in the pastel buildings and signature decorative tile that are on display everywhere. Normally, I love this sort of thing, and vintage tile hunting ultimately became my focus when walking the city, but the old didn't convey a sense of revelation or mystery, but rather a 'lived-in' feel that is a tad run down and a bit dirty. The Alfama district and nearby Sao Jorge Castle are a great example. The views from from on high are amazing, but up close on the streets, I recommend exploring at dusk when twilight softens the rough edges.

Lisbon's signature streetcars are everywhere

My biggest nitpick with Lisbon is that despite the location on the Tagus River, not far from the Atlantic, the waterfront is woefully underdeveloped.

We discovered this on the day we visited historic Belem. Exploring a city on foot is our favorite thing to do, finding it a great way to get a feel for a place, so Perry and I decided to walk to Belem along the waterfront only to encounter a) no sidewalks, b) multiple construction sites, and c) precious little that is visually stimulating. After two hours, we finally came upon the pedestrian friendly area along the water near Belem, but by the time we got there, we were exasperated.

Luckily, Belem's sights and food made up for the less-than-stellar walk there. After taking in Torre de Belem and Jeronimos Monastery, we enjoyed the BEST sandwiches at Pao Pao Queijo Queijo followed by Portuguese tarts (pastel de nata) at Pasteis de Belem.

Belem (and pastel de nata) ultimately restored our confidence in Lisbon, but if you go, just take the bus.

My biggest regret is that we didn't make it to Sintra. Fifteen miles from Lisbon, this UNESCO World Heritage site is supposed to be a fantastic day trip featuring ancient castles and the glittering Pena National Palace. After our day trip to Belem, we decided to pass. I'm still cringing over it, but I guess that gives me a reason to return to Portugal.

Unfortunately for Lisbon's place in my mental rankings, we also had a less-than-ideal final night after deciding to splurge and have dinner at a Fado restaurant, Clube de Fado. Fado is the national music of Portugal and is characterized by guitars and mournful singing.

I can't blame the musicians because they were flawless. The biggest issue is that our table was behind a large group of noisy German tourists which made it difficult to pay attention to the performance. Normally, the Germans are fabulous, but this group had the attention span of a three-year-old, and kept talking and getting up to go out for a smoke during the show. The final straw was that our food was terrible. With the focus on the music, I didn't expect Michelin star cuisine, but when we paid our €120 bill, this budget traveler was still hungry and livid over the exorbitant cost.

Fado is a worthwhile experience but adjust your expectations accordingly!

Not my photo, but a good representation of a Fado restaurant

The next morning, I was ready to hop the train for Porto.

PORTO PERFECTION

Porto, in contrast to Lisbon, was a shock of excitement-- its well-preserved historic buildings and tile combined nicely with the developed waterways along the River Douro and Atlantic Ocean. They even have a cable car that delivers you from the top of the Ponte Luis I bridge to the port bars riverfront, which is a fun and inexpensive experience. Long pedestrian boulevards teeming with cafes and people beckon you to sit with a port tonic and admire the hillside architecture and gobsmacking bridges.

On our second day in the city, we did just that.

Afternoon cocktails on the Cais de Ribeira

We stayed in Cedofeita, near the Lapa metro station. Here, we found an affordable neighborhood with a large student population, an abundance of cafes and architecturally significant cultural buildings, which contribute to the fresh and funky Porto attitude.

We didn't eat out much (penance for the Fado splurge), but we did stop by Piolho Cafe to try the famous Franceshina sandwich, a behemoth made with ham, roast beef, and pork sausage, then covered with melted cheese and a tomato/beer sauce, and served with a generous portion of french fries. Definitely not diet food but worth the caloric splurge!

To be clear, the old city (Ribeira) isn't all glossy tourist perfection. It has a lived-in feel like Lisbon, but it is a lot less grubby and more importantly, has an undeniable spirit. I was completely drawn to the exuberance.

In addition to the cool city vibe, there is also plenty of natural beauty. While the oceanfront isn't an airbrushed postcard, it is pedestrian friendly and a lively gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. Throw in the nearby green space Parque de Cidade (City Park), which is filled with walking trails, trees and ponds, and Porto definitely stands out as a fresh and livable city. No wonder the people radiate happiness!

The cherry on top of our Porto sundae, however, was the day cruise we took into the Douro Valley.

October 5th was Republic Day, a public holiday in Portugal that celebrates the forming of the first Portuguese republic in 1910. Being a holiday with a clear forecast, the cruise ship was filled with local Porto residents, which made it feel a bit more special than a regular tourist excursion.

The first oohs and aahs of the day came courtesy of the bridge Ponte Luis I and the sunrise over Ribeira.

Later, as we came into the valley, the famed terraced vineyards offered stunning views.

In addition to the beautiful scenery, they also serve a light breakfast and hearty three course lunch with wine. At €60 per person, I consider this eight-hour excursion excellent value for money. Aboard the bus back to Porto, we were treated to sky high views of the valley.

As I write this, I remember Portugal fondly despite the knocks against Lisbon. It's a country with great history, food and culture. The people are friendly and prices favorable compared to the rest of Western Europe.

In conclusion, you should definitely visit Portugal and when you do, here are my 'can't miss' suggestions.

LISBON THINGS TO SEE/DO

Visit Jeronimos Monastery & Torre de Belem in Belem
Take in the views of Castelo de Sao Jorge at sunset
Admire the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge
Meander in the historic Alfama district

LISBON FOOD

Bistro Gato Pardo for tapas and sangria
Pao Pao Quiejo Quiejo for amazing, affordable sandwiches in Belem
Pasteis de Belem for the best pastel de nata in Lisbon

PORTO THINGS TO SEE/DO

Take in the views at the top of Ponte Luis I
Ride the Teleferica de Gaia cable car from the top of the Ponte Luis I bridge to the riverfront
Visit Casa de Musica
Douro Valley River Cruise
Drinks and people watching on the Cais de Ribeira
Nature walk in Parque Cidade

PORTO FOOD/DRINK

Port tasting along Avenida de Diogo Leite (Sandeman looked good and extremely busy!)
Port Tonic cocktails along the Cais de Ribeira
Francesinha Sandwich at any local restaurant

Thanks for reading!

For more photos of Porto, click here.

For more photos of Lisbon, click here.

For some great photos of Portuguese tile, click here.

Next time on Gobsmacked: Eating Well on the Road Part I: Recipes for Budget Travelers

Things I'm Getting Used To: Thanksgiving Edition

November 23, 2016

Happy Thanksgiving to my American peeps!

Personally, it has been one hell of a month and luckily, it's because Perry and I have had more travel-related high points than low ones. Here's a quick run down of our November.

First, we will be spending Thanksgiving in Innsbruck, Austria, which has to be the most beautiful city we have stayed in to date.

Don't let these coats fool you, it was in the 60's when I took this photo!

Above the city, courtesy of the Nordkette Funicular

Christmas market with an Alpine backdrop

It has also been an unusually warm 63F, so we have been strolling the Christmas market sipping Gluhwein (mulled wine) in short sleeves, which somehow just feels wrong. Prior to our arrival, we spent three days in rainy Zurich, Switzerland, which was also lovely, but has officially overtaken Stockholm and Oslo as The Most Expensive Place We Have Stayed. Like $20-for-two-hot-chocolates kind of expensive. We moved on quickly to Innsbruck with the most spectacular train ride through the Arlberg Pass.

Prior to that, we spent five days near Lausanne, Switzerland with one of the finest families on the planet, The Lind's. Big hugs and thank yous to Sara, Eric, Griffin and Guthrie!!!

Unfortunately, I was sick most of the time we were in Switzerland, attempting to recover from whatever bug I picked up at a language immersion program where we volunteered in La Alberca, Spain. PS. It was a life changing experience for which I am truly grateful and will be posting a recap soon.

Finally, we started this crazy, thankful month in the south of France (ooo la la) before flying to Madrid for the language camp.

And if that wasn't enough, we made it onto one of our favorite podcasts!

We were recently interviewed for the Zero to Travel podcast and shared the story about how we transitioned from 9-5 to long-term travel. The episode hit the airwaves earlier this month and we would love if you checked it out or shared it within your social media network. THANKS!

Back to France. I had only been in Paris prior to this trip so I enjoyed seeing a different side of the country. Southern France is as idyllic and adorable as you think it would be. Even their scummy areas are cute enough to be considered 'shabby chic'. All in all, since we left the UK, our travels in Western Europe have been very good and I shouldn't complain.

But... this is Things I'm Getting Used To, so I'm going to whine. Just a little. You know. For entertainment purposes.

Hungry Like The Wolf

I recognize our meal routine is anything but traditional, but it seemed to work just fine in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. Western Europe, however, has given our routine a big fat middle finger.

What is our routine, you ask? Generally, we eat breakfast at home between 9:00 - 10:00 am. Then, we will usually have a light snack around 1:00 pm before heading out for our walk. We like to eat something substantial between 3:00 - 4:00 pm and then something light, if anything, in the evening. We do this to keep our costs and our waistlines in check.

*Top Tip* This routine does NOT work in Spain and France because restaurants stop serving lunch between 2:00 - 3:00 pm and do not re-open for dinner until 7:00 - 8:00 pm. There is no such thing as 'fast casual' here in Europe.

We have been foiled countless times because we try and time our arrival as close to the end of lunch as possible. We've found that while you can get lunch as late at 3:30 pm in Spain, France tends to shut down by 2:00 pm. Plan B means a grocery store lunch, unless it's Sunday.

In addition to being caught out on the lunch thing, we've somehow gotten on Sunday travels, breaking our rule of traveling during off-peak days/hours. The last three weeks we have arrived in a town around 3 pm on Sunday, hungry, and not able to find an open lunch place OR grocery store.

The bright side of going hungry is that my pants still fit despite all the time I spent in the land of Pain aux Raisins. I have been accused of eating one every day I was in France but will Plead the Fifth.

Foot Fire

Our high mileage walking days continue and while I was plagued by foot trouble for the first month of the trip, things have been pretty good the last six months.

Unfortunately, my foot woes are back.

It started with my socks. They were full of holes and I couldn't hide them from Perry any longer. I know that sounds pretty desperate, but these were my Bombas and I didn't want to throw them away because I really, REALLY love them. Alas, it was time. I picked up three new pairs (NOT BOMBAS), however, after the first day of wearing them, both my pinky toes turned into giant blisters.

Things are healing and I'm adjusting to the new socks, but it's a lesson learned. Next time, don't mess with new socks, just bring plenty of Bombas.

La Douche

For the traveler, public toilets are an endless source of frustration and entertainment. Sometimes, your potty is a hole in the ground or filled with a stench that makes your eyes water. Then there are those coin-operated portable toilets found near tourist attractions.

I've attempted to use at least three of these toilets over the last few weeks with zero success. Trust me when I tell you that if I've put my faith in a coin-operated public toilet, it's a desperate situation. All three times, it ate my money and left me in a worse predicament as my brain was fooled into thinking I was about to take care of things. Psyche!

The latest bathroom shenanigans involve a restaurant in Nîmes, France. Not seeing a sign for the toilets on the ground level, I headed up the stairs and looked around. There was a dark corridor and at the end, an unmarked door. I knocked, hesitated, then opened it to discover a toilet. After doing my business, I squirted a large portion of liquid soap on my hands and seeing no handles, waved them in front of the faucet to start the water.

Nothing.

I kept this up for a few minutes berating myself for applying the soap before I determined there was water. Then, I noticed a shower (la douche in French) also in the bathroom. Since I was in no position to be fussy, I turned on the shower and rinsed off my hands, while also making the legs of my pants wet from the shower spray.

Downstairs at the table, the manager came by to check on us (as we were the only patrons in the entire place-- it was ~3:30 pm and somehow we managed to find the only restaurant in town that was serving food then). We complimented the meal and Perry excused himself to the bathroom. As he headed up the stairs, the manager called out 'No, monsieur, over here!' He was pointing to a door near our table, and asked me why I had used the employees bathroom? I laughed and indicated I had not seen the one downstairs and then proceeded to tell him the sink wasn't working. He looked puzzled and responded.

'Madame, as it is an employee toilet, the sink is hands free. You must press your knee on the lever below the sink.'

All In The Family

On the LaBine side, I'm proud to say I descend from a long line of crabby SOBs. While I don't have direct experience with relatives before my grandfather, I've seen their photos and let's just say there isn't a lot of smiling. Today, we tell side-splitting tales of Grandpa Leo's cantankerous behavior and his effective use of the word hell in greetings and farewells, such as the delightful 'What the hell do you want?' or my personal favorite, 'Get the hell out of here!'

Legend has it that on his death bed in the nursing home, he began to speak quietly such that my father leaned in, ready to receive instruction or perhaps a pearl of wisdom. 'Yes, Dad?' he asked.

'Tell...that...SOB... to get the hell out of here.' Apparently, an orderly he didn't care for had entered the room to drop off something, and even with his dying breath, it was a no filter situation. I'm not being cheeky when I tell you I miss him terribly. Maybe because I always admired his ability to not give two shits what anyone thought.

In addition to being an occasional crabby pants myself, many of you also know that my hearing is awful, but what you probably don't know is that I also get this from the LaBine's.

My dad (another proud crabby guy) has had bad hearing for decades, so he's never been a big phone person. On the farm when I was a kid, he hated answering it, but if forced, would greet the other party with a loud, unexpected 'YEAH?' After moving to the city, he adopted a more genteel approach by actually saying 'HELLO', but in a tone that definitely conveyed, 'What the hell do you want?' Dad, you are not quite Grandpa yet, but there's still time.

It's fair to say I come by my cranky, auditorially challenged ways genetically and in honor of my French-Canadian heritage, I will relay the story of a recent incident in France.

I was walking in Montpellier alone, lost in thought, when I heard what sounded like whispering. Suddenly, I became aware of a man walking in step with me, just a little too close. He whispered again, which is the first and only time I've heard French sound creepy.

'YEAH?' The word came out of my mouth a bit louder than I intended. He jumped, but continued whispering as we passed Place la Comedie. I couldn't understand him so I shook my head which usually works, but he just kept following me.

Irritated, I stopped and looked directly at him. 'What the hell do you want?'

Startled, he responded in English, 'I speak with you. I seek friendship with you.'

I walked away but left him some parting advice: 'Get the hell out of here'

Grandpa would have been proud.

Kick the Bucket

I was thinking about my bucket list recently and have mixed feelings on this subject. At best, this type of goal setting has provided me a much needed kick-in-the-pants to think about the dreams I have and then the encouragement to get out there and go after them. The flip side is that it's a great way to become controlled by the social media monster. I've begun to question: am I really enjoying my experiences or am I just enjoying telling everyone about my experiences?!?

While some experiences have been worthwhile, I've found most items on my list set me up with super high expectations that inevitably led to disappointment. Such was the case when visiting the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. I was so overwhelmed by Russia and the crowds at the museum that I don't think I really 'saw' anything.

If I keep my eyes open, there should be plenty of bucket list-type experiences right in front of me. So, instead of running around trying to check things off a list, I'm throwing it away.

I'm curious what you think about bucket lists. Shoot me a note or leave feedback below.

Thanks for reading!

Next time on Gobsmacked. A Tale of Two Cities: Lisbon & Porto